tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22444635867198034082023-11-16T07:42:00.880-05:00four square wallsAndrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comBlogger153125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-62683498244472918222015-08-19T09:25:00.000-04:002015-08-19T09:25:16.346-04:00refashioned shirt quilt<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20x2uBOW8tvvQIhoSvQQbBTPCAQ1JPfrRJ2RM2C57rbbCkqoZWkG0y9EbrryPs-XWWDbkKmvBMoSZIuqOd2xqopZyaVuEsHFX3LInGtAbG-VCBYSCSBPoOOpiN8XzHeET1r6_aqeW5wU-/s1600/Shirt+Quilt+8.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20x2uBOW8tvvQIhoSvQQbBTPCAQ1JPfrRJ2RM2C57rbbCkqoZWkG0y9EbrryPs-XWWDbkKmvBMoSZIuqOd2xqopZyaVuEsHFX3LInGtAbG-VCBYSCSBPoOOpiN8XzHeET1r6_aqeW5wU-/s640/Shirt+Quilt+8.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I've been blog-dead for many moons, but this year I decided to participate in <a href="http://www.makery.uk/the-refashioners/">The Refashioners</a>, hosted by <a href="http://www.makery.uk/">Portia</a>, because it seemed like a fun and creative way to reengage with the sewing blogosphere. The challenge was to refashion a man's shirt, but I took it in a slightly oddball direction. I decided to make a quilt out of many men's shirts! My goal was to make a cool modern quilt that happened to use secondhand shirts, instead of making a "shirt quilt" that <i>looked</i> like a bunch of men's shirts, so it took me many thrift shopping trips to find these bold solid colors that matched my home decor.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4_ef3lxzxT9rwKka-8IaYKNAhqGHynAIYeQpPUaLVmPWvYnbZyYg73dFxr_4SyjXnDQV-Ns1ZP_OoN5Ip7aa1BnNs3YomsyqoErVpY6Az_x1C5nga6fCh_ltlbUwTpvXCvWUGov0wCcj/s1600/Shirt+Quilt+3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4_ef3lxzxT9rwKka-8IaYKNAhqGHynAIYeQpPUaLVmPWvYnbZyYg73dFxr_4SyjXnDQV-Ns1ZP_OoN5Ip7aa1BnNs3YomsyqoErVpY6Az_x1C5nga6fCh_ltlbUwTpvXCvWUGov0wCcj/s640/Shirt+Quilt+3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Head over to <a href="http://www.makery.uk/2015/08/the-refashioners-2015-andrea/">Portia's blog</a> to see my full post about the process, and while there be sure to check out the rest of what The Refashioners have done this year. Pretty amazing stuff! If you decide to participate yourself, there's an enormous <a href="http://www.makery.uk/2015/08/the-refashioners-2015-enter-to-win-a-huge-prize-package/">prize package</a> to be had by one random winner. Yeah, it's like laughably enormous. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I do plan to be back soon with a brief tutorial, and perhaps a post about the Colette Cooper backpack I recently made. As you probably know, you can always keep up with me at Instagram (<a href="https://instagram.com/foursquarewalls/">@foursquarewalls</a>) where I'm slightly more active...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41a02N3NinVLRzvtzVp1hx80lDg-OGmHl4lxdu8pc7kcDIQxFTfN2MtLuTivlz8HvS67iGJB7cfHMt27YbLQpKHQ28vxIQDteOsfv8SgkjGhLmMcz7vlaMgQmBLdrVWX2t-WJBZQbH7Hq/s1600/Shirt+Quilt+10.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41a02N3NinVLRzvtzVp1hx80lDg-OGmHl4lxdu8pc7kcDIQxFTfN2MtLuTivlz8HvS67iGJB7cfHMt27YbLQpKHQ28vxIQDteOsfv8SgkjGhLmMcz7vlaMgQmBLdrVWX2t-WJBZQbH7Hq/s640/Shirt+Quilt+10.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-55704038908778467112015-05-01T00:07:00.000-04:002015-05-01T00:07:57.899-04:00me-make may?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Denim Archer shirt I made for myself (for fun!) a few months ago</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I know. May is the time of year when all the AWOL sewing bloggers suddenly show up in your blog reader with bathroom selfies galore for <a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/2015/03/me-made-may15-sign-up-here.html">Me-Made-May</a>. Don't worry; I've definitely been AWOL and here I am suddenly on May 1st, but bathroom selfies ain't me. I decided that I wouldn't make a proper pledge for MMM15, because I tend to (try to) wear at least one item of handmade clothing everyday and I'm pretty aware of my wardrobe needs and desires already. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK3NEm25DVvJqsUJFz5_53a9Kf_cLLwTmkLEVeXXVn3_XDU2LdIMrAhQ6Uwv-5mQ4DibZkZoCwP5Gl8gO_8E-Q46adx1jW_Hhz8lBzx-wC2CXqD_E2Z1zj0rjKmQRF40HFG4kP4LwnDlfz/s1600/jeds.JPG"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5y56ImsT3O2GBOJ0YM_XO7mlaRzlyqL4OPRGqu6U84e2jsmxI9S7tD7t67fgoFRZmQpXmoypFNDPQd0RMto0kZrx9UK52cOv5Ngf1gwDKY9FMjo8t3qzl7e2dxxMMEsefXEbo4p1F-F_/s1600/kimono.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA5y56ImsT3O2GBOJ0YM_XO7mlaRzlyqL4OPRGqu6U84e2jsmxI9S7tD7t67fgoFRZmQpXmoypFNDPQd0RMto0kZrx9UK52cOv5Ngf1gwDKY9FMjo8t3qzl7e2dxxMMEsefXEbo4p1F-F_/s1600/kimono.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kimono thing I made two weeks ago. Sooo slapdash but I'm kinda obsessed.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My problem is actually making time to address those needs and committing to sewing for my own damn self. When you sew for a [modest] living, every moment at the sewing machine is a potential money-maker, so it's hard to shove my to-do pile aside and sew for fun. I figure May is a good enough time to spoil myself, though. I've been having major Insta-Envy, where I scroll through Instagram with a pit in my stomach because everyone's making <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern">Ginger Jeans</a> and <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/products/morris-blazer">Morris Blazers</a> and undies and cool bags and all the things I want for myself but don't have time to make. #PoorBaby. I know it's the price I pay for choosing this ridiculous career path, but I'm grateful that my passion for sewing is still strong and that my only limitation is lack of time, not lack of desire or inspiration.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlL7Kvq-hwSVErWG-tx9eB92Jv7IzYTbvLbemPG3_ry69J_-c_mWVYLiiLn_hpGf7afqfDR8WU_nTMwX0DHEP3EI3TtgXG_1SC5bS7Blro3BqbIwhEGvNNgVUN60pBgDwT1C0TdKI8yNka/s1600/quilty.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby quilt for my future nephew I made in March. Really should have taken better photos on a proper camera.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlL7Kvq-hwSVErWG-tx9eB92Jv7IzYTbvLbemPG3_ry69J_-c_mWVYLiiLn_hpGf7afqfDR8WU_nTMwX0DHEP3EI3TtgXG_1SC5bS7Blro3BqbIwhEGvNNgVUN60pBgDwT1C0TdKI8yNka/s1600/quilty.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So I'm calling it Me-Make-May, where instead of just wearing my existing handmade stuff, I'm going to try to set aside time to sew more clothes for myself... that aren't cut off-grain and slapped together on a serger and left unhemmed as per usual these past few months. I'm afraid to set quantitative goals for myself because I can't always predict my work schedule and deadlines, but I would love to work towards accomplishing the following:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Tops. I wear black jeans like everyday and have few tops to pair them with. Maybe one knit tee and a short-sleeve button-up?</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Maxi dress. I still feel like I'm playing dress-up when I wear the one I have (never blogged), but it's so damn comfortable that I need another.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Pajamas and underwear. Not very fun but the situation is dire.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Dress for my friends' wedding at the end of May. I have some knit lace I want to use, but need pattern inspo.</span></li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidFhZRYSFfepk0EeaQn_3n27_wwlU8prW28VEaQjKw77kPzU88y6Q8BB8sQ4p9dJc8KFOQDcJ5ptRdC7pxGhUGM2GPktj8VKyXuLBhvwE5EizMLVRZbj6hYJw9RIYMVwfSXDm9gj8LB3cl/s1600/linden.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linden Sweatshirt I made as a sample for my knits class at <a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/">Butcher's Sew Shop</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidFhZRYSFfepk0EeaQn_3n27_wwlU8prW28VEaQjKw77kPzU88y6Q8BB8sQ4p9dJc8KFOQDcJ5ptRdC7pxGhUGM2GPktj8VKyXuLBhvwE5EizMLVRZbj6hYJw9RIYMVwfSXDm9gj8LB3cl/s1600/linden.JPG"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here's to hoping I can get all that done. My plan is to check in with you all again, either halfway through May or at the end of it (let's be real... how about July?), to see how I did. Fingers crossed!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Do you guys also have sewing goals for MMM15, or is it more about reflecting on and celebrating what you've already made?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I knowingly skipped over my third blogiversary, or however it's spelled, because I felt that my neglected blog didn't deserve any hoopla at the time. As the year 2014 rolls to an end, though, I thought I should revisit this space to catch up and do a bit of reflecting on the past year of sewing in general. If only to distract myself from thinking about the impending nightmare of filing my taxes as a self-employed person for the first time. And I've certainly missed you all!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">As you may know (from </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/05/sewing-for-money.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">this blog post</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">), in February I quit my position as a grant writer in order to sew for a living. For awhile after that I was mostly sewing for a studio that did bridal alterations and custom projects. The owner ultimately decided to narrow her focus and cut down the volume of her workload, so I stopped working there in early September and ventured out on my own. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaoGPG4K9g9fzKByK8Jzpd1o-NsoaKLKNAe0Tj9oLRV5cx9StOeohaF3fqtmbYmSA8vM-wGMHLSKNayYxkN-bqv9qugMUzlYC4t214h9soSW5Ka5Yxav3KsAWJcxTr8gZgsi5eVxYwc-2/s1600/house.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaoGPG4K9g9fzKByK8Jzpd1o-NsoaKLKNAe0Tj9oLRV5cx9StOeohaF3fqtmbYmSA8vM-wGMHLSKNayYxkN-bqv9qugMUzlYC4t214h9soSW5Ka5Yxav3KsAWJcxTr8gZgsi5eVxYwc-2/s1600/house.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>One of my last projects at <a href="http://www.seamstressforhire.com/">Seamstress for Hire</a>: a tablecloth playhouse. Naturally I had to try it out for myself.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Since then I've been freelancing, sewing on-demand for a few Etsy shops and local brands (<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/rebourne">Rebourne</a>; <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/CuddleSleepDream">Cuddle Sleep Dream</a>; <a href="http://shopbrynnie.com/">Brynnie</a>). The work is consistent and I get to work from home on my own equipment, which is excellent in that I can set my own schedule and I certainly enjoy the autonomy and pajama dress code. But it also means that my small sewing room is in a constant state of chaos and I never know how to stop working because the work is always staring at me.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHB-sKUm7n6jTTvsMM_yaMmJcNDO1Q85fHgQ7ZbSknE8mBJhhFvb2azwr5JIaXcmUuFV2VnNgzu_MCPurwyamXNbuqiERYizwdyKP2srodG7z5pELQxO5tbRya170hk8EfY1akJe12qfzT/s1600/todo.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHB-sKUm7n6jTTvsMM_yaMmJcNDO1Q85fHgQ7ZbSknE8mBJhhFvb2azwr5JIaXcmUuFV2VnNgzu_MCPurwyamXNbuqiERYizwdyKP2srodG7z5pELQxO5tbRya170hk8EfY1akJe12qfzT/s1600/todo.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Above: my pile of items to sew/alter before the holidays</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have also been teaching more often at <a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/">Butcher's Sew Shop</a>, leading the Sewing with Knits workshop as well as some sections of Sewing 101 and 201 and private lessons for adults. In the past I never imagined myself being any sort of teacher due to my introverted nature, but teaching people how to sew has been incredibly fun. I'm lucky that Butcher's is a laid-back and warm environment, and it's rewarding to witness the students' proud moments of finishing a new project. I've learned that patience and encouragement (...and being able to multi-task like kRaZy...) go the longest way as a sewing teacher. If you're interested, you can read more about the talented owner of Butcher's on Madalynne's blog <a href="http://www.madalynne.com/portrait-of-a-seamstress-mali">here</a>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMJYjHE18p3Q4QEInziP1FT5i4z6LAUa-ae_tv1Bsth_iT6WsiTatJDYzTSdyAPDNXfBmT5Wz-wrLrvRzlBZNJBrYphN7FWnZWwsH2qzOiEAYq4aTVqbgrZmzGkzFdfnahjTHBouQ-Ap2/s1600/teaching.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMJYjHE18p3Q4QEInziP1FT5i4z6LAUa-ae_tv1Bsth_iT6WsiTatJDYzTSdyAPDNXfBmT5Wz-wrLrvRzlBZNJBrYphN7FWnZWwsH2qzOiEAYq4aTVqbgrZmzGkzFdfnahjTHBouQ-Ap2/s1600/teaching.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Clockwise from top left: Sewing 101 students with their finished clutches; a student's Linden sweatshirt from my Sewing with Knits class; me with a student in Sewing 201 working on the Salme Kimono top (photo by Maddie <a href="http://www.madalynne.com/portrait-of-a-seamstress-mali">found here</a>); and a student's finished Deer & Doe Plantain tee.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The rest of my time is spent doing custom projects and alterations. I'm trying to shy away from this type of work when possible because it takes a lot of (unpaid) time to meet with people and do fittings, and the work can be unpredictable. The majority of these type of clients so far have been friends or people I know, though, which is certainly more enjoyable that way.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRzFDOgCYUhTueC5xUuPiAcC3wbrhYQCE9xWL640seXpReSNa9JhVebygZBnIaTsoimVICIXkJvTgqcwyF-bPWtJITT2DtkaOF54SngfLAMDCN6Q6dvfj0iKUWWJLB7Q22VGvzovgCwfw/s1600/alterations.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRzFDOgCYUhTueC5xUuPiAcC3wbrhYQCE9xWL640seXpReSNa9JhVebygZBnIaTsoimVICIXkJvTgqcwyF-bPWtJITT2DtkaOF54SngfLAMDCN6Q6dvfj0iKUWWJLB7Q22VGvzovgCwfw/s1600/alterations.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Clockwise from top left: Custom button-back top for my friend Charlotte; duffel bag made from firefighter gear for a retired fireman; </span><a href="http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/how-to-shorten-jeans/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">a Craftsy post</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I wrote on hemming jeans (quite a controversial subject according to the comments); and a flat tummy adjustment in progress on a RTW dress.</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My hobby sewing (and blogging, as you know) has slowed considerably, but I have cranked out a couple easy things for myself in the wee hours. I did sacrifice a whole work day and made hedgehog costumes for Corey and me for Halloween. (People thought we were lions.) I also took time where possible to make birthday and Christmas gifts for some dear ones this year.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFB5i6ScuzV7Ibt3VlaOhVoXdmPpiRVkkvCnpd4cqWw_zjd-b6RjHvzXT0KJKu6YcNh0YGwLQ-dKDPvbH_JXR1NOA64h6EaVE-C43cgjsFlt7HvVTyr5mPQj3q-HgAP2Bh30L5uUDs3yWx/s1600/jeds.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFB5i6ScuzV7Ibt3VlaOhVoXdmPpiRVkkvCnpd4cqWw_zjd-b6RjHvzXT0KJKu6YcNh0YGwLQ-dKDPvbH_JXR1NOA64h6EaVE-C43cgjsFlt7HvVTyr5mPQj3q-HgAP2Bh30L5uUDs3yWx/s1600/jeds.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Above: wide-wale corduroy pants I made for Corey's birthday. I used the <a href="http://threadtheory.ca/products/jedediah">Thread Theory Jedediah Pants pattern</a>, which fits him perfectly with no modifications. He wears these cooooonstantly!</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOiED0pjW9GOuP_7C99pla5MLQArRjarnuWr2q-xlNFedAsI6ZIbASgKLJEn4XG1UTD5JAwtocBW7NPQzupAKdEmdKCiEZZQ5W8BLtdEfmk_dYaBYsbvl_PeomwS8RuXb8o9G0t09nIpz/s1600/Favorites+2014.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOiED0pjW9GOuP_7C99pla5MLQArRjarnuWr2q-xlNFedAsI6ZIbASgKLJEn4XG1UTD5JAwtocBW7NPQzupAKdEmdKCiEZZQ5W8BLtdEfmk_dYaBYsbvl_PeomwS8RuXb8o9G0t09nIpz/s1600/Favorites+2014.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Favorite makes this year, clockwise from top left: </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Linden sweatshirt for myself in a loopy sweater knit; </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/04/portside-duffel-bag.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Portside duffel bag</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I'm obsessed with (I replaced that white zipper with a gold metal one and it's bangin'); </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Several pairs of handmade underwear because I hate shopping for anything anymore; </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Hedgehog costumes made from fleece and a ton of felt triangles.</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2014 has been a truly bonkers and amazing year. I almost can't believe this is my life now. I certainly do not miss working in the office environment and never for a moment have regretted my decision. Working for myself of course comes with its own stressors, like unreasonable deadlines, taxes, business licenses, expense tracking, clutter!, picky clients and 15 hour work days where I don't leave my house. I work about 70 hours a week and earn less than half the income I had at my office job. But! I feel as though I own my stress because I can decide what work I'm taking on in the end. It's taken me awhile to build confidence and I still get frustrated at myself for making dumb mistakes or taking too long, but I've more often been proud of myself than anything for what I've done so far.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So here's to another bonkers and amazing 2015. Happy new year, friends, and I will see you on the other side!</span></div>
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walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-27654037964120267592014-11-12T17:00:00.002-05:002014-11-12T17:00:50.321-05:00steaming out permanent creases on altered garments<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I seem to know a lot of tall guys. Poor guys, can't find shirts or suit jackets that fit in the shoulders and chest AND are long enough for their gorilla arms. Poor seamstresses (me), having to alter the tall guys' sleeve lengths and mess with those awful mitered vents.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nE6GmxJPzMGPObgASVPnYpKnwI_48e4ljkP9jZVTgBL6K6-IrlkNTAViPYbZZHoQzqQteekb613QzBkr1fD-wPCyHhj4ZodvWwEjcKP-XlzJ1R77Kq5MHqs0-sPukDFDWGUDNcwTv2bE/s1600/Suit+Jacket+Sleeve+Alterations.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4nE6GmxJPzMGPObgASVPnYpKnwI_48e4ljkP9jZVTgBL6K6-IrlkNTAViPYbZZHoQzqQteekb613QzBkr1fD-wPCyHhj4ZodvWwEjcKP-XlzJ1R77Kq5MHqs0-sPukDFDWGUDNcwTv2bE/s1600/Suit+Jacket+Sleeve+Alterations.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I will answer a couple major questions here. Can you lengthen a suit jacket sleeve? Despite the sad lack of internet tutorials on how to do so, <b>YES</b>, you can. In this case I lengthened the jacket sleeves by 1-1/4" and added a facing so I would have enough fabric to recreate the sleeve vent. The buttons along the back sleeve seam are not functional, so I could pop them off and re-position them after the sleeves were lengthened.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Another major question: Can you get rid of that pesky horizontal crease that persists from the original factory-pressed hem? <b>YES</b>. Maybe not 100%, but yes. Here is what it looked like before, even after pressing and steaming, steaming, steaming with water multiple times:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrhdKL_3KEzROtmEf75hX_-tSkmKJGmFtwiMX-zlV3VdTYMKEJOSlL-TxXgvZOv_44pERSshLGj8MEtf0tnL5D32BT-nViLRLS-Ak5segzETwwhxsP_iigL_M3y6T5rrwzDKMirMuGcIX/s1600/Altered+Sleeve+Length+Suit+Jacket+Crease.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrhdKL_3KEzROtmEf75hX_-tSkmKJGmFtwiMX-zlV3VdTYMKEJOSlL-TxXgvZOv_44pERSshLGj8MEtf0tnL5D32BT-nViLRLS-Ak5segzETwwhxsP_iigL_M3y6T5rrwzDKMirMuGcIX/s1600/Altered+Sleeve+Length+Suit+Jacket+Crease.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Many moons ago, Megan Nielsen blogged about steaming out a seemingly permanent crease on her denim Kelly skirt using a brown paper bag that she wet with a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and water. Luckily I was able to find her post again (<a href="http://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/08/tested-ironing-with-vinegar/">HERE</a>) and followed her lead to remove the hem creases on this suit jacket. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iVYHjgd070lb2uOUqxT9RZ1YyCytM8iotH3CzPaMEnG80wTUaw6aSeervFP3TxIZS3nhDhN0uccEG0qoouDHDeu-ZkpM4zwc2B0dGvo0miunwLqkKoQdLy34vNRryZdKEsGiUOKlMkXK/s1600/Steam+Out+Crease+Vinegar.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iVYHjgd070lb2uOUqxT9RZ1YyCytM8iotH3CzPaMEnG80wTUaw6aSeervFP3TxIZS3nhDhN0uccEG0qoouDHDeu-ZkpM4zwc2B0dGvo0miunwLqkKoQdLy34vNRryZdKEsGiUOKlMkXK/s1600/Steam+Out+Crease+Vinegar.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I cut a scrap of brown packing paper from one of my far-too-frequent Wawak mail orders, then I dipped that in a mixture of white distilled vinegar and water. I placed the wet paper on top of the creased area, then steamed the daylights out of it. Held my iron there with constant steam for maybe 15 seconds until the paper was dry, then moved to the next section.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz3nwtvuh0YxkhuhAdHWCANrtvq5czUKnG-_YDeZIyUHF86r65ym4ODDzDK94eVTW8DsF9Iu6hj932JoHxAdM6MP5YKJ2Oh5uOyeJ7UeFLvJk-aqoaGd83n_ytvw4HJyZAqTTO4bLLQ64d/s1600/Sleeve+Crease+Iron.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz3nwtvuh0YxkhuhAdHWCANrtvq5czUKnG-_YDeZIyUHF86r65ym4ODDzDK94eVTW8DsF9Iu6hj932JoHxAdM6MP5YKJ2Oh5uOyeJ7UeFLvJk-aqoaGd83n_ytvw4HJyZAqTTO4bLLQ64d/s1600/Sleeve+Crease+Iron.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Side note: I have a "one size fits all" iron shoe tied to my iron, in case you're wondering what that thing is. Helps prevent scorching and shine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And here's the finished sleeve after the vinegar magic show:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56otMVZ7TA385_U1p3mOWuo-oT5doaf7FcXFyfZyzZ5losf4IHFQaZ9nfEZ-d-O5v-lPCuTYBKPI9XM9OmndF3ZwO4j79nra8e3_-Esa_SOMOZwO6v9Crna8h7DrqOxsqNfVZk3R-1adE/s1600/Sleeve+Hem+Crease.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56otMVZ7TA385_U1p3mOWuo-oT5doaf7FcXFyfZyzZ5losf4IHFQaZ9nfEZ-d-O5v-lPCuTYBKPI9XM9OmndF3ZwO4j79nra8e3_-Esa_SOMOZwO6v9Crna8h7DrqOxsqNfVZk3R-1adE/s1600/Sleeve+Hem+Crease.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Not bad! The garment does not smell like vinegar, though my sewing room and hands now do. I'll also note that the thinner packing paper worked better on the crease than when I tried this with a Trader Joe's paper bag, which is a bit thicker. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">That's all. Just wanted to share this tidbit in case you ever have to alter clothes for a tall guy (or gal). Have you tried this?</span></div>
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Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-86213323569543139522014-08-31T19:13:00.000-04:002014-08-31T19:13:22.829-04:00how to gather fabric with a serger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vPX-vvPywQPcXIMi1OKgU5d4HvQ-SIDgn4C3cMzAr39IUAXVySi2a9Ju6Wa9256eGTgVzsiWDR7-tiYvq8-umLLzKlzFFqsqAgtoLgWbXFEPlzL6B2qxeZnr3BX3FNwObjRcCjNVwUX5/s1600/Gathered+skirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vPX-vvPywQPcXIMi1OKgU5d4HvQ-SIDgn4C3cMzAr39IUAXVySi2a9Ju6Wa9256eGTgVzsiWDR7-tiYvq8-umLLzKlzFFqsqAgtoLgWbXFEPlzL6B2qxeZnr3BX3FNwObjRcCjNVwUX5/s1600/Gathered+skirt.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Darlings! I haven't had a moment to <strike>breathe</strike> sew much for myself since I last updated, but I figured I could at least share some lil' techniques I've been learning "on the job." In my freelance work, I often sew multiples of the same thing, so I use those opportunities to try out different ways of executing the same step to see which method is fastest or looks the best. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Gathering fabric is one of those [obnoxious] tasks that can be done a few different ways, such as pulling on two parallel lines of basting stitches, zig-zagging over a strand of dental floss or string, or using a gathering or ruffle foot on your machine. Those all work fine... when they work. I actually haaaaate gathering fabric because those methods very easily go wrong and can be time-consuming, especially when your threads snap and you have to start all over again. And what if you need really dense gathers, or your fabric is a bit thick? A gathering foot won't do you much good there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Well, I was recently commissioned to make 10 gathered party skirts for a local startup clothing line, so I had to figure out a way to get fast and consistent results with sewing gathers. OR ELSE. The fabrics I'm working with for these skirts are cotton sateen and silk taffeta, and they have a skirt-to-waistband gather ratio of 2.75-to-1, so they're pretty frickin' poofy and need a lot of gusto to gather. I think 3-to-1 is the determined max limit on gathered skirt poof before it becomes, like, physically impossible to sew and maybe socially unacceptable to wear.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDkXYoT3bZvrGBHOS371sf2-GIQVkXRliAKQmgjmdYGksDgxhyWJf0dLBuzvspYQ0EB-NaL5xkx911hzHeLRKR6TLG71WFYq9OCOCgHeyy9FibbvqoZvc99NpMy6xQMV-zWKXvjY_1OEJe/s1600/Serger+Gather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDkXYoT3bZvrGBHOS371sf2-GIQVkXRliAKQmgjmdYGksDgxhyWJf0dLBuzvspYQ0EB-NaL5xkx911hzHeLRKR6TLG71WFYq9OCOCgHeyy9FibbvqoZvc99NpMy6xQMV-zWKXvjY_1OEJe/s1600/Serger+Gather.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I knew in the back of my mind that sergers could gather fabric, but I had never tried it. So when I did try it, I couldn't believe how much easier and faster it seemed. All you have to do is adjust some settings on your serger and get gathering. Now, of course this method can go wrong, too, as nothing in sewing is fool-proof, right? This technique actually works in an opposite manner as the basting method because you gather the fabric as you serge and then loosen the gathers to fit. This is unlike the basting method, in which you typically tighten the gathers to fit. This means you should test out your gathers on scrap fabric first to make sure it gathers tightly enough on your serger. If the gathers are too loose after serging, it will be difficult to tighten them up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The first step is to set up your serger for four-thread overlock. The tightest gathers will occur if there are two needles engaged instead of one. Once you have threaded your serger properly, tighten the tension of the two needles (not the loopers), which are typically the two leftmost dials. For this particular project, I needed to gather the fabric very tightly, so I increased the needle tension as high as it would go, which on my Brother 1034D serger is at a "9" tension. After some trials, I found I achieved best results if my left needle is at "9" and the right needle is more like a "7" tension. Your machine may react differently. I left the loopers at default tension, which for my machine is a "4":</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFAYuJ1LwC7xXiy2ol-6HNVri2RO39UeiKfx-shwNgzxHRAQledNMUu1i7uGoxE3sbAkrtYM91I8TsGOEevXxnuN8zUZpWwMvTtJZ3N3toXc5cK-jLZUgYFyockzrkWZ9zYgCb36YkKwc/s1600/Serger+Tension.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFAYuJ1LwC7xXiy2ol-6HNVri2RO39UeiKfx-shwNgzxHRAQledNMUu1i7uGoxE3sbAkrtYM91I8TsGOEevXxnuN8zUZpWwMvTtJZ3N3toXc5cK-jLZUgYFyockzrkWZ9zYgCb36YkKwc/s1600/Serger+Tension.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Next, tighten the differential feed if you are able to. The serger has two sets of feed dogs, one in front of the other, and the differential feed controls the ratio at which these feed dogs move the fabric under the presser foot. A higher differential feed -- in this case, a "2" -- will move the first set of feed dogs twice as fast as the second set, which gathers up the fabric. Conversely, a lower differential will move the first set of feed dogs more slowly, which stretches out the fabric. Here I've set it to the highest ratio possible:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH0ANqZe8CJbZr3MQ_o8LS1t6fCygzDClr0CM3kOG7qRUnDg6GBVxMKkQKnNEjWZ4VxK2V4eo9NgwHPcuPZ_eWE0OwMafCvO7gTRQ3ujn7iSjjE5XQHfHPS3P2krrGXlB6_24Gc_vxuz5P/s1600/Differential+Feed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH0ANqZe8CJbZr3MQ_o8LS1t6fCygzDClr0CM3kOG7qRUnDg6GBVxMKkQKnNEjWZ4VxK2V4eo9NgwHPcuPZ_eWE0OwMafCvO7gTRQ3ujn7iSjjE5XQHfHPS3P2krrGXlB6_24Gc_vxuz5P/s1600/Differential+Feed.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Now, all you have to do is serge along the edge of the fabric and the machine will do the gathering work for you. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here is a video I took of the gathering at work. This is high production value, folks. Oh you're welcome!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyQbGuy7VaWa8iyDEarGeHHdFvW2C3My9glEWLNDeNQy-5YbfSAbCM-CnFYfS28YHb8IuOjmzJbZe8x44jqFQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Keep in mind that the serger will gather along the edge, so you may need the adjust your seam allowance first or serge so the blade cuts off part of the seam allowance if it is 1/2" or larger. Make sure the left needle of your serged seam does not extend past your desired seam allowance because the threads will then be exposed on your garment and they're hard to pick out neatly. It may help to match your serger thread color to your garment, but I did not do that here (the skirt is lined and I did not want to spend money on four fuschia cones for one project!).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQUpMu9uM1WYN_jF9btBFPweEAVc-SNOTWrOrNzPsvzInIxYv3-ckiJyBekASU1SajYBYPsPwsYnd2-ftk5gkuI2X6WvpP7t2Zat5_WNo6Ygu81Ded1-RvJfOxyXMfnvStQOJ5L7xa9Oi/s1600/Gathered+Fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPQUpMu9uM1WYN_jF9btBFPweEAVc-SNOTWrOrNzPsvzInIxYv3-ckiJyBekASU1SajYBYPsPwsYnd2-ftk5gkuI2X6WvpP7t2Zat5_WNo6Ygu81Ded1-RvJfOxyXMfnvStQOJ5L7xa9Oi/s1600/Gathered+Fabric.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you are attaching the gathers to a flat piece of fabric, it helps to have marked the gathered fabric and the flat fabric into fourths so it's easier to match up the points and distribute the gathers evenly. Below, I have matched the quarter marks and then I gently loosened and distributed the gathers so they match the length of the flat fabric. If you yank on the serging too hard to loosen it, the threads may snap, so be currful. Lots of pins help secure the gathers.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5dKDl-GvYRd-WCIiYIhB5iQgC9QedF6NcCB7mtEG63G4EvOBfjH3Ve89KS2780fFxn2X1GTU4o3u65RHDrxBpwWO_7jjF_L24MA1VHFGdKPeWNE0QAL9Sb4Qgm59OGpWq4Nd4ujHrtVg/s1600/Attach+to+waistband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq5dKDl-GvYRd-WCIiYIhB5iQgC9QedF6NcCB7mtEG63G4EvOBfjH3Ve89KS2780fFxn2X1GTU4o3u65RHDrxBpwWO_7jjF_L24MA1VHFGdKPeWNE0QAL9Sb4Qgm59OGpWq4Nd4ujHrtVg/s1600/Attach+to+waistband.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5AQpjY8dlBI6Y1CxNjR55fx3uZ_hp6_HQARBRv-Ep6z_NKaObHjX-kRc7mSdFkvpFynxe9ALnmL4vOgNy-0dyOQyXxkPpP3OkYdXI3zzvh8zT6-FTSX8bUvmUBBZVVvTdo4F2utZw9Vl/s1600/Pin+gathered.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb5AQpjY8dlBI6Y1CxNjR55fx3uZ_hp6_HQARBRv-Ep6z_NKaObHjX-kRc7mSdFkvpFynxe9ALnmL4vOgNy-0dyOQyXxkPpP3OkYdXI3zzvh8zT6-FTSX8bUvmUBBZVVvTdo4F2utZw9Vl/s1600/Pin+gathered.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">When you sew the gathers to the flat fabric on your sewing machine, it helps to have the gathered side facing up so you can make sure the gathers aren't folding over or jutting out from the seam allowance. Be sure your needle sews right below the serged seam.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7xeigzez04TNnVBNrPdYh9iZKUXYj_3JfzOCdmQKZF3JXm1My6btg7QR9_sZ1qm2nlkYWFEY3J7fRtSfbue-B9ZsY3oAuZsXra2HBdlh0V82kyQdoNYbOUCk7s7vKt5bJ_Ys11s1QZTF/s1600/Gathered+Skirt+final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7xeigzez04TNnVBNrPdYh9iZKUXYj_3JfzOCdmQKZF3JXm1My6btg7QR9_sZ1qm2nlkYWFEY3J7fRtSfbue-B9ZsY3oAuZsXra2HBdlh0V82kyQdoNYbOUCk7s7vKt5bJ_Ys11s1QZTF/s1600/Gathered+Skirt+final.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It's worth mentioning that you can do something similar with a regular sewing machine by upping the tension, but the serger helps create tighter, more even gathers because it is set up to sew two parallel lines of stitching with two needles and you can adjust the differential feed as well. I also like that it finishes the edge as you gather so there's less annoying fray to deal with when you're attaching it to the flat fabric. And because it's so fast, if your gathers somehow fall out or get too loose, you can just zip over one section again with the serger. Much less stress than having to rebaste two full lines.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How do you prefer to gather fabric?</span></div>
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Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-11701003472402432402014-07-27T14:05:00.003-04:002014-07-27T14:05:58.326-04:00a painterly dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dh-baz2bwGhniBmlv9AoH2XDf-erUsvPerNwR331Wx8rbNLD2ub0-YOR4vfNK2TIqFgU5HaV4MUdgfU-SL2r3x-rgYnmVk7jGz1KyNYqfpN4O5PBUZ8q_9MjBmzAnJFRcEU6TFHUlMXq/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1h.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dh-baz2bwGhniBmlv9AoH2XDf-erUsvPerNwR331Wx8rbNLD2ub0-YOR4vfNK2TIqFgU5HaV4MUdgfU-SL2r3x-rgYnmVk7jGz1KyNYqfpN4O5PBUZ8q_9MjBmzAnJFRcEU6TFHUlMXq/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1h.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I keep waffling between LOVING this dress and thinking it looks like a 90s thrift store special. Something about the mix of pink and purple in the color palette seems dated, maybe, and sometimes I think I see butterflies in the print that aren't actually there. Butterflies on clothing reminds me of my childhood. But I mostly love the dress. It helps that it's relatively well-made, by my standards, and it fits quite nicely, by my standards. And I do like the abstract floral print. I made it specifically to wear to a wedding so I enjoyed having an excuse to sew a fit-and-flare dress that has more than three seams, is fully lined, and not made of cheap jersey like my usual handmades.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf_5WUwg0sTplloMPG20p9rVFBzj0ZYO3-REeeD-SBcXpvBRkn1-NBqkvm_gPmX3GVJmZblDkSN1hnJfpoXk5IhVkP6DOqn-ygeOzg7E3rAyV_lNNz6Bicq5FiHbbllkZ_nL58tCiulqW/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1e.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf_5WUwg0sTplloMPG20p9rVFBzj0ZYO3-REeeD-SBcXpvBRkn1-NBqkvm_gPmX3GVJmZblDkSN1hnJfpoXk5IhVkP6DOqn-ygeOzg7E3rAyV_lNNz6Bicq5FiHbbllkZ_nL58tCiulqW/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1e.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I started with one pattern -- <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-11717-misses-dress-with-bodice-variations.aspx">Simplicity 1418</a> -- but went completely off script as I tend to do. I bought a few of those Simplicity Project Runway patterns on sale at JoAnn recently and then decided they were kinda "meh" once I got home. It used to be I was so bored by the Big 2 offerings that indie patterns seemed shiny and bright, but now I'm bored by indie patterns --at least for dresses-- so it felt exciting to flip through the commercial pattern books and see a bunch of new-to-me stuff that I could gobble up for $1.99 each. But, it turns out they're all basically the same sort of silhouettes anyway with a few questionable details tacked on, like the fake lace-up binding on the back of this dress:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkpM12IE87GmkIVP0fWxfdoKOJdB6tmJksSSDBnqIiB_jE3d02w06bfsfeEymFjp46LDUJwYHfd-_0NirbHhDwxvbzigJ0GERAErjHQlnwskXwv5OIahtrlI5g4yi3BgqCrPgl5pExNls0/s1600/simplicity+1418.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkpM12IE87GmkIVP0fWxfdoKOJdB6tmJksSSDBnqIiB_jE3d02w06bfsfeEymFjp46LDUJwYHfd-_0NirbHhDwxvbzigJ0GERAErjHQlnwskXwv5OIahtrlI5g4yi3BgqCrPgl5pExNls0/s1600/simplicity+1418.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I first made a muslin of View B with the wide cap sleeve things like the yellow dress on the envelope. It looks cute on the model. It did not look cute on me. Getting those sleeves to fit would be tricky. They actually have an elastic casing attached underneath to help the sleeves stay put on your shoulders, but they still kept slipping down into 80s territory and were all gapey in the back so I knew I would have to play too much with the sleeve pattern to make it work. Plus, strapless bra requirement? Ew.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So I decided to make View A.... kinda. Here's what I actually kept about the pattern:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Princess seam lines on the front</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Back pieces with darts and high back inset, though I seamed in the inset instead of attaching it behind the back pieces</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Side zipper placement</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here's what I changed:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Changed the neckline from a v-neck to a scoop neck and cut the front piece on the fold instead of as two pieces.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Eliminated facings and edge bindings.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Added full lining, which narrowed all the edges since I was turning under seam allowances instead of binding them.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Used the half-circle skirt from </span><a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-8762-misses-dress-project-runway-collection.aspx" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Simplicity 1651</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> instead of this pattern's pleated skirt. I assumed that since they were the same pattern line and same size, the skirt would match to this pattern's bodice, and it did perfectly.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Added pockets to hold my phone and keys while I'm dancing at the wedding reception, of course.</span></li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjD2WlbE8WwdADguDo38mW7l-g5D-sF2_Gs25GICdSAvjrj_1MTKceM84LgGF0g8vvKx4dHmx0AdYLpx1gTseJc5xURaZtGNKmslebD9LVm89C5ZkjrqLd9WbyB64raPJrRl4dEA5z7Wop/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjD2WlbE8WwdADguDo38mW7l-g5D-sF2_Gs25GICdSAvjrj_1MTKceM84LgGF0g8vvKx4dHmx0AdYLpx1gTseJc5xURaZtGNKmslebD9LVm89C5ZkjrqLd9WbyB64raPJrRl4dEA5z7Wop/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1l.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, I basically made it more boring! I very nearly bound all the edges in black bias tape as the pattern calls for. It didn't "feel" right, though, so I <a href="http://instagram.com/p/qpt6GnpB3v/?modal=true">consulted</a> the smart gals of Instagram because it's impossible to make decisions on my own in this approval-obsessed age of social media. The vote for clean finish vs. black bias tape was 36-to-18, so I had to go with majority. I do think it was probably smarter for this kind of occasion -- black edging would have made the dress more casual and bias tape can look hokey and be difficult to apply neatly. Without it, though, some of the design effect of the back bodice is taken away because the binding is supposed to outline the inset piece. Ohwell.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoXLa7oxXgkQmvnlg3srfsZE1ripwGK-m34TSblD9ZhCzdkJ8WtaEdmapaiHQvo7exoamV3UXwpyq9KAxwote-NHfeyY-fRRJ2QeNXw3S33Qotn7W_qFYp77OBA_kwdqGUDycAL3KEX3L-/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1i.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoXLa7oxXgkQmvnlg3srfsZE1ripwGK-m34TSblD9ZhCzdkJ8WtaEdmapaiHQvo7exoamV3UXwpyq9KAxwote-NHfeyY-fRRJ2QeNXw3S33Qotn7W_qFYp77OBA_kwdqGUDycAL3KEX3L-/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1i.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>FABRIC:<span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b>The fabric is a linen print from Jo-Ann, so probably a third of you own it as well. It's a bit scratchy on its own which is why I chose to line it. The bodice lining is made of some off-white cotton I found in my stash, and the skirt lining is cream-colored Bemberg rayon.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOucHxDv88866S7qk6MW7EOHKMboARGR2PQwxZg6Umtb87fhh2NvmlXpcN3T9UM9I6Ox5uV88SC5TNhbAwiKrJIp5qXj7ivqpkG4l_fmPFy7lAryQvg0zUcn20Rx6aliPOZGveasI5dVMq/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+Lining.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOucHxDv88866S7qk6MW7EOHKMboARGR2PQwxZg6Umtb87fhh2NvmlXpcN3T9UM9I6Ox5uV88SC5TNhbAwiKrJIp5qXj7ivqpkG4l_fmPFy7lAryQvg0zUcn20Rx6aliPOZGveasI5dVMq/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+Lining.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>FIT:</b> I was kinda surprised to see that these envelopes are split at size 12 instead of size 14 like other Simplicity patterns I own (so you have to buy either 4-12 or 12-20). Maybe it has to do with the amount of design variations included in the pattern, so they can only print so many sizes. Fortunately it doesn't affect me too much because I only make a size 10 if it's a knit pattern, so I just bought the upper envelope. Choosing size for this dress was a bit of a gamble; they do list the finished garment bust size on the back of the envelope, but I had to consult the actual pattern pieces to find the finished waist size. I fall between a size 12 and 14 for bust and waist, but cut the size 12 to cut down on some of the built-in ease. I got nervous that adding a lining would bulk up the dress, so I sewed the side seams at 3/8" instead of 5/8" and it worked out fine.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXMfrWTWg-rKvoEEjGmTxzblSq7Rh73Rko7L17WiTZ_tiWXyBzRbngrOgYqVM6seRUxWH6-b1CcIOpVXILRMA8M76Tp4i1Ywo_QdM6S_uuEZfGkV0Jzv3J9W7ck2XDHkWwNMbB9EspXfL/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1a.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtXMfrWTWg-rKvoEEjGmTxzblSq7Rh73Rko7L17WiTZ_tiWXyBzRbngrOgYqVM6seRUxWH6-b1CcIOpVXILRMA8M76Tp4i1Ywo_QdM6S_uuEZfGkV0Jzv3J9W7ck2XDHkWwNMbB9EspXfL/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1a.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I made a muslin and tweaked issues like puffy princess seams, sticky-uppy shoulders (technical fitting term), a gaping armhole and a waist seam that dipped too low in the back. I actually altered the pattern pieces (!!) so the issues would already be taken care of on the final fabric. Yeah, I don't normally do that...? This is one of those patterns that has the option of sleeves vs. sleeveless without any change to the shape of the armhole, which seems like bad drafting IMO. Luckily the front princess seams end right where the gape at the front armhole is, so it's easy to adjust there. I also folded out a small (3/8") wedge out of the back armhole pattern piece before cutting into my final fabric.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>CONSTRUCTION:</b> The original pattern has facings, but the facings are supposed to be basted to the garment edges WRONG sides together, then all layers of the raw edges are bound with double-folded bias tape. Huh? What's the point of the facings if they're not there to help finish the edges? I don't know if it's just to provide stability to the neckline or what, but if I were to make this garment without a lining and with the binding, I would probably just eliminate the facings all together. Am I right or wrong on that?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZQ8wzMIRLlF4S31CjeXA4KMhi8Ca3u5AU6h7ZCw1OZTm_twRIvuKGTszChTqn7A_MsswlsxVJlrd1ViWy44ae7pfF4slyldjVC6tLFaNWPb8VUxs3nZFN-DAwQsdEM8CIhsTPGUyrmDxx/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1j.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZQ8wzMIRLlF4S31CjeXA4KMhi8Ca3u5AU6h7ZCw1OZTm_twRIvuKGTszChTqn7A_MsswlsxVJlrd1ViWy44ae7pfF4slyldjVC6tLFaNWPb8VUxs3nZFN-DAwQsdEM8CIhsTPGUyrmDxx/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1j.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I used a 14" invisible zipper in the left side seam. Sewing an invisible zipper around an in-seam pocket is always an adventure, and since I added my own pockets to the pattern, the instructions weren't included for that. The only tutorial I can find linked to online is from 2008 on the Pins & Needles blog that no longer exists. Luckily I own <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-5908-misses-miss-petite-dresses-cynthia-rowley-collection.aspx">Simplicity 2215</a>, which uses this method.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VZz7gRmG2QdhP6Ln-5brLn8xuHD94kZyPOFveAMiRd0RJmWMZZrjZPWaavoVPf36futOLuxZ070DrEM_hqypluELSHYQaqfPciWmM-U-bGLdrwfg9XZQGPr4GL6XSYJNypVH0Zf1ZVs8/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1m.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0VZz7gRmG2QdhP6Ln-5brLn8xuHD94kZyPOFveAMiRd0RJmWMZZrjZPWaavoVPf36futOLuxZ070DrEM_hqypluELSHYQaqfPciWmM-U-bGLdrwfg9XZQGPr4GL6XSYJNypVH0Zf1ZVs8/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1m.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The half-circle skirt is cut so that the side seams are on the straight of grain and cross grain, with the center front and center back hanging on the bias. Helps with zipper application, maybe. I had limited bemberg rayon for the skirt lining, so I had to cut the lining with its side seams on the bias and the CF and CB along the grains. I'm not willing to figure out the geometry of why that saves fabric but, it does. I... don't recommend this, if you can help it. I guess you have to even out the hems separately no matter what, but it made it seem like more of a headache because after hanging, the main skirt was drooping too low in the front and back, while the lining was drooping too low on the sides. Zzz hemming. Once I got it even enough, I did a blindstitch hem on my machine, which I only attempt on textured or printed fabrics.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C1tJwFBdz4AGrc3_9mjAjY__KRZ0rw6NT06LvfF0D_lcDe5g-krcb22mDNcfDhCtsAg86N7JHDO2KwbmoMoiNmupDUibYd-y58k4KQb7t_PulFeDZgiY0ZLU57m_-PTI_8Z4TUfxNveX/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1q.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C1tJwFBdz4AGrc3_9mjAjY__KRZ0rw6NT06LvfF0D_lcDe5g-krcb22mDNcfDhCtsAg86N7JHDO2KwbmoMoiNmupDUibYd-y58k4KQb7t_PulFeDZgiY0ZLU57m_-PTI_8Z4TUfxNveX/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1q.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I feel like I'm providing an unnecessary amount of detail about making this pattern, so I'll shut my trap now. Have any you had success with a Project Runway pattern lately? The Project Runway collaboration with Simplicity makes me laugh because Nina Garcia would probably kick me off stage if I sent this dress down the runway for real. Too twee and fashion-backward for Marie Claire, perhaps. BUT ILIKEITALOT.</span></div>
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"https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-dfWts3fqz8Q%2FU9QfjdV47FI%2FAAAAAAAAIQI%2FMmmzISsV8T4%2Fs1600%2FWatercolor%2BDress%2B1i.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoXLa7oxXgkQmvnlg3srfsZE1ripwGK-m34TSblD9ZhCzdkJ8WtaEdmapaiHQvo7exoamV3UXwpyq9KAxwote-NHfeyY-fRRJ2QeNXw3S33Qotn7W_qFYp77OBA_kwdqGUDycAL3KEX3L-/s1600/Watercolor+Dress+1i.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-47128929841997041332014-06-26T20:26:00.001-04:002014-06-26T20:26:39.598-04:00archer shirt variation: v-neck placket<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Wutsup Internet pals. After my </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/06/chardon-m-thistle.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">last post</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">, I received some requests for a demonstration on how I modified the plackets of the </span><a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/archer-button-up-shirt" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Grainline Archer shirt</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> to a V-neck. And I oblige! I like this look because the shirt lays flat against your chest while still framing your neck and face in that nice button-up shirt kinda way. It's slightly more feminine, too, so there's that.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVUqgw21GdwEx1rNloTEVq_bKFiW-YS46uuC6eulJGb5aVCWMqh1JsXQgkppJMUzWFrnyixrbmhSSmySV-3cyz-LKWKZFqs3Cpgrt-s94mnbOUyHkCJ4lM_gW5iSNnoaPMJs4ZnpEv8PG/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1e.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVUqgw21GdwEx1rNloTEVq_bKFiW-YS46uuC6eulJGb5aVCWMqh1JsXQgkppJMUzWFrnyixrbmhSSmySV-3cyz-LKWKZFqs3Cpgrt-s94mnbOUyHkCJ4lM_gW5iSNnoaPMJs4ZnpEv8PG/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1e.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This doesn't involve anything too difficult, despite the long post that follows here. The modification involves three steps: 1) modify the shape of your shirt pattern piece, 2) draft separate plackets to match, and 3) shorten your collar stand. I'll also show you how to actually sew on the new plackets. You can, of course, do all this with any button-up shirt pattern, but I'm showing it on the Archer because it seems likely that more of you guys already have this pattern (or are thinking about getting it) than some rando Butterick pattern or something, right? We're all indie fangirls and we know it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So if you want to get this look, follow along!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>PLACKET DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1. Assemble the front pattern piece of the Archer shirt. If you need to print a new one for this modification, you only need to print pages 2-4, 8-10, and 14-16 from the PDF. Cut or trace your size.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_6v1OYPzVeRq4O0DqbOmAG8L-KKakTWtSgIh5nRrNvb2DgREmf5dnzc83eGv36rh_Kw9CVBsiVm-snUZ44BjzY8Ws1Jz6XvdvuZK7QbQUrIMp4YSMj_U2pCvUEEcRF46J9bj5Pmk21a1/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1a.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_6v1OYPzVeRq4O0DqbOmAG8L-KKakTWtSgIh5nRrNvb2DgREmf5dnzc83eGv36rh_Kw9CVBsiVm-snUZ44BjzY8Ws1Jz6XvdvuZK7QbQUrIMp4YSMj_U2pCvUEEcRF46J9bj5Pmk21a1/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1a.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2. Cut along the vertical line that says "Trim Along Dotted Line for Right Front." The original Archer pattern has you fold under and stitch the placket on the wearer's left side, and attach a separate placket piece for the right side. On this modification, both sides will have two separate plackets so throw away that chunk and pretend it never existed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSEr3o3JPMXsg1KLWod9gYJrI5soFc3pxv3YQrXJP2vbn1eBAHpkd82WqhrsjrOEd12wskgw8Wk1SwJAKDbbo1_ayqX5yUC0_ZQC1X8EVnYpeAS1SYL0GnrlGySIhJwKZi7is-QyuUx6RQ/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1b.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSEr3o3JPMXsg1KLWod9gYJrI5soFc3pxv3YQrXJP2vbn1eBAHpkd82WqhrsjrOEd12wskgw8Wk1SwJAKDbbo1_ayqX5yUC0_ZQC1X8EVnYpeAS1SYL0GnrlGySIhJwKZi7is-QyuUx6RQ/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1b.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3. Cut off the desired amount to create your V-shape in the front. Make sure it doesn't cut way below your bust apex (unless u naughty), but remember that there will be added plackets that will provide more coverage. For reference, I made a point 1" inward at the neck and another point 7-1/2" down, and connected those points with a straight line which I then cut off. Feel free to make the neckline more or less open, higher or lower.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Because I was making a sleeveless version, I went ahead and modified the shoulder and armhole, too. As Jen writes in her <a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/05/22/archer-variation-no-1/">sleeveless Archer mod post</a>, you don't want a sleeveless shirt that hangs off your shoulders, so shorten that shoulder seam and blend to nothing at the original underarm. I shortened my shoulder seam by 1-1/2". You'll need to similarly alter your yoke and back pieces, too.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZecvUlJVtH89FAUZz8u4K-9M0JbShh0xJcJKCsoqMNKYR90GBUNXhF2hycuXe8pGcyAb76ljI7ZA-n-3c3ED7YRpz-Au9GovZZhyphenhyphengVk255r5hPLT0qOoCHjVEW7hIBWqbUiPeuLkCll3I/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1c.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZecvUlJVtH89FAUZz8u4K-9M0JbShh0xJcJKCsoqMNKYR90GBUNXhF2hycuXe8pGcyAb76ljI7ZA-n-3c3ED7YRpz-Au9GovZZhyphenhyphengVk255r5hPLT0qOoCHjVEW7hIBWqbUiPeuLkCll3I/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1c.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">4. Before drafting the plackets, go ahead and draw the seam line on the front edge of the shirt pattern piece. The seam allowance on Grainline patterns is 1/2". This steps just helps with the drafting process for accurate measuring of the new plackets.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjgEs8G48lmS5bOBL8k5eQu9juy91Op9lKvkW5rSVxMboo08uAXzOjchaZhDAj4Wa9arh0uucVOVYRCt68Jo_s2NhkLPaxC06b55HH-77NJgpB4zk3vtNvQdSImdlnwYzPsi6aMm2H85m/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1g.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjgEs8G48lmS5bOBL8k5eQu9juy91Op9lKvkW5rSVxMboo08uAXzOjchaZhDAj4Wa9arh0uucVOVYRCt68Jo_s2NhkLPaxC06b55HH-77NJgpB4zk3vtNvQdSImdlnwYzPsi6aMm2H85m/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1g.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">5. To draft the plackets, place a sheet of tracing paper over the top of your pattern piece (I use <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/14895/Swedish-Tracing-Paper-29-W-x-10-yds/">Swedish Tracing Paper</a>). Weigh it down then trace that seam line you just drew. Now draw a parallel line 3/4" to the left of that seam line. 3/4" is the final desired placket width I chose, so if you want a wider or narrower placket, adjust as you please. Connect the top of the two lines by tracing the curved outline of the shirt neckline. Connect the bottoms with a straight perpendicular line that matches the hem of your shirt piece.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So, the blue outline on the tracing paper is now the placket piece without seam allowances on the sides:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK2iZoZSIXbo9CuMaX11Z4dOdBClXqMb0XTNKIMayO4GLMiQfX-846AtiBmTEIAl50t7SSqC4ofzjtB3VfhS4Dqb01BQ1KctKwPanB1H8TuTGmRlcbheClvNtZqPvi08T4q6QzQ0Kikcj_/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1h.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK2iZoZSIXbo9CuMaX11Z4dOdBClXqMb0XTNKIMayO4GLMiQfX-846AtiBmTEIAl50t7SSqC4ofzjtB3VfhS4Dqb01BQ1KctKwPanB1H8TuTGmRlcbheClvNtZqPvi08T4q6QzQ0Kikcj_/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1h.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">6. Add seam allowances to the sides of the placket only, since SAs are already included in the top and hem (traced from the original pattern). My SAs are in green in the photo. Stick with 1/2" if you're using the Archer so it remains consistent with the rest of the shirt construction. When drawing your SAs at the top of the placket, the top bit should continue to follow the curve of the shirt neckline. It will look crazy pointy, but that is all trimmed down later after you sew it on. Cut out your new final pattern piece.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRh2_InRMwSpgC_8lCHQ0wOhYo6HJ8hBMSj9xQ_ZbhXHjXnMdvrhHCHNSGFNEAgcwjoFCw-VNVtj627wt59gk8_9Z3IkJ0UyPrBGDI59Q8ylDl0wQFZA8ZpxeRfjNkI0tDU9XUJjTqvOlW/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+Mod+Pattern+Piece.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRh2_InRMwSpgC_8lCHQ0wOhYo6HJ8hBMSj9xQ_ZbhXHjXnMdvrhHCHNSGFNEAgcwjoFCw-VNVtj627wt59gk8_9Z3IkJ0UyPrBGDI59Q8ylDl0wQFZA8ZpxeRfjNkI0tDU9XUJjTqvOlW/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+Mod+Pattern+Piece.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>COLLAR STAND MODIFICATION INSTRUCTIONS:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">While you have all your pattern pieces and fabric out, let's do this mod now before sewing anything. Remember that you removed fabric from the front of your shirt pieces, which makes the garment neckline shorter around. If you're adding a collar, collar stand, or both, you will need to adjust the pattern piece(s) accordingly. I decided I wanted a "mandarin collar," or just a collar stand with no collar piece, so I'm only showing that modification here. The same theory applies if you're adjusting a collar, too: remove length at the center so the shape and pitch of the ends remain unaltered.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">First, calculate how much of the neckline you removed from the shirt on each side. Instead of measuring all the pattern pieces and adding stuff together, just think about the original pattern pieces versus your new ones and do some subtraction. On the original Archer, there is the full neckline plus a 1" placket. For my version, I removed 1 inch from that neckline, then added plackets that are only 3/4". So my shirt neckline now has 1-1/4" less on EACH SIDE, or 2-1/2" less total. I hope that makes sense. I tried to create some diagrams but it just made it seem more confusing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Archer collar stand is cut on the fold, so changes made to this pattern piece reflect only one side, though the changes will be doubled once the fabric is cut. Since I removed 1-1/4" from each side of the shirt neckline, I similarly removed 1-1/4" from each half of the collar stand at the center back. I marked a line at 1-1/4" and cut there. <b>This is your new "Cut on Fold" line when you cut your fabric.</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RpUwoz4LD4KBGA1QUb6Y6L45AJs28g_ZuJp5etxaD5TXKm9cj2Fa5-v3ksrI6Kdhr5VPUrhvvQlpCFnAbPz7H2w9a9sfgO6O5R8kg0bRvHKwIBA78KDOZ4V2gKDrD8MMyu9XpYSWOrrW/s1600/Archer+V+Neck+Collar+stand.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8RpUwoz4LD4KBGA1QUb6Y6L45AJs28g_ZuJp5etxaD5TXKm9cj2Fa5-v3ksrI6Kdhr5VPUrhvvQlpCFnAbPz7H2w9a9sfgO6O5R8kg0bRvHKwIBA78KDOZ4V2gKDrD8MMyu9XpYSWOrrW/s1600/Archer+V+Neck+Collar+stand.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgokbXyjeKjoxTMVhCC4CccdZ38JLW7H7Eoc2DW2HzReW4V0k1IdSHGUM4iddj2tv8nnuCIOqt1Fms-0JMTbBpj6UOp6nFJma96Nag4nhoIimNQOvmw3awGAFEBCATLlNox5ZYTjh-SvFWQ/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1m.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgokbXyjeKjoxTMVhCC4CccdZ38JLW7H7Eoc2DW2HzReW4V0k1IdSHGUM4iddj2tv8nnuCIOqt1Fms-0JMTbBpj6UOp6nFJma96Nag4nhoIimNQOvmw3awGAFEBCATLlNox5ZYTjh-SvFWQ/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1m.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>PLACKET CONSTRUCTION INSTRUCTIONS:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1. Cut FOUR placket pieces from your fabric. Two of them will be your outer plackets and the remaining two will be the placket facings. Cut two interfacing pieces as well. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemttjEd-WjXLMCaVZebiiLZ8r7VkYU06qwlTdVrrK14SSq4dkbSvl-8rzRMI_6-C8jd8N4YZN3raZj_1Mn2aL5ibdsFcnmgCOPnqzCSStrxK_e568ur17q0bxA1SQkgqLzARSORdGNeof/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1n.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemttjEd-WjXLMCaVZebiiLZ8r7VkYU06qwlTdVrrK14SSq4dkbSvl-8rzRMI_6-C8jd8N4YZN3raZj_1Mn2aL5ibdsFcnmgCOPnqzCSStrxK_e568ur17q0bxA1SQkgqLzARSORdGNeof/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1n.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2. Fuse the interfacing to two placket pieces.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7G9kFZDA30AEZlr5ggVf-FPDSfPn0Cc-qxdXXCN-vCpslSoLk30Jk4MIyJ3mAo5dgvWtuJnAjI7vmB71xbuNI6G_hq_0GNe4Vh8VbIV8-pn9Lg819MZH5oREaOOhu2dpwA-9QEohLfA9/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1o.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7G9kFZDA30AEZlr5ggVf-FPDSfPn0Cc-qxdXXCN-vCpslSoLk30Jk4MIyJ3mAo5dgvWtuJnAjI7vmB71xbuNI6G_hq_0GNe4Vh8VbIV8-pn9Lg819MZH5oREaOOhu2dpwA-9QEohLfA9/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1o.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3. Right sides together, pin and sew the the facings to their placket counterparts. You will be sewing the outer edge, or the outer curve of the plackets. Trim this seam allowance.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-r6lo7t_DjyTk1GyC38mQyAjwBomsi26ETj2JdM8O9Qtq0tjGm5VshVFDKYRb8HbihvN0UwMG3vWAxLnvYz0FbRX9ehq0lnTbvQIoDOnANaq0d2QYEV_0IoMpD_NBb7Lo9xc1rHVooXiL/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1p.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-r6lo7t_DjyTk1GyC38mQyAjwBomsi26ETj2JdM8O9Qtq0tjGm5VshVFDKYRb8HbihvN0UwMG3vWAxLnvYz0FbRX9ehq0lnTbvQIoDOnANaq0d2QYEV_0IoMpD_NBb7Lo9xc1rHVooXiL/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1p.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Open the pieces and press the seam to the placket facing (uninterfaced side). Understitch this seam in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTFrgzIRCPq1Y7p28qT_wehW5MNcLx9x90PJuGkzDv4l4VVrGMls1NI_K-qtC6qKQgF-_dmcXCzjAuRytKQWe3IsA3X5yDrEgXDT_HJSFMsUkYX4oh7nWdmWiFCeDAzQvm-alIDzjyYrO/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1q.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTFrgzIRCPq1Y7p28qT_wehW5MNcLx9x90PJuGkzDv4l4VVrGMls1NI_K-qtC6qKQgF-_dmcXCzjAuRytKQWe3IsA3X5yDrEgXDT_HJSFMsUkYX4oh7nWdmWiFCeDAzQvm-alIDzjyYrO/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1q.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-QBPfuvx69ziNlasi74ePXX2LQzSSGEw5B0dC9tKLFtTLHWSCSLoyGVdaeRP6y0SGqApXI4MmZjfKfbEYgcAoyaoj7b1WzSmPLMMLf0tdP76_M72AJYvzCCkoG_dgqU3Vi4NftZVFsTN/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1r.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-QBPfuvx69ziNlasi74ePXX2LQzSSGEw5B0dC9tKLFtTLHWSCSLoyGVdaeRP6y0SGqApXI4MmZjfKfbEYgcAoyaoj7b1WzSmPLMMLf0tdP76_M72AJYvzCCkoG_dgqU3Vi4NftZVFsTN/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1r.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">4. Fold together and press, wrong sides together. The understitching will help the placket facing stay put in the back. Double check the width of your plackets now and trim the raw edges to make everything even if you need to. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJtWFOoSCWWFs4ZF99pBvFiYmsm0FIAmDgJk1kO_Yu_ZX2PF9H6nd5KZCdJaPCVhzrvNv75bcbotODGAkxQzR2eu2mCRh56XaDK2PmEQtydzQB2zt1ywdbbFNz_-wVc-iwYg1AvjBWEez/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1s.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlJtWFOoSCWWFs4ZF99pBvFiYmsm0FIAmDgJk1kO_Yu_ZX2PF9H6nd5KZCdJaPCVhzrvNv75bcbotODGAkxQzR2eu2mCRh56XaDK2PmEQtydzQB2zt1ywdbbFNz_-wVc-iwYg1AvjBWEez/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1s.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">5. You'll now be attaching the plackets as one piece to the front shirt edges. That means you'll sew both layers of the placket and placket facing to the shirt, and the seam will be visible on the inside. I decided not to do a "clean finish" (where the placket facing edge is folded over and stitched to cover the separately-sewn placket seam) in the interest of time and in the interest of me not being interested in a clean finish. Do whatchu do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pin the right side of the placket side to the shirt edge. The pointy seam allowance at the top of the placket sticks out awkwardly as it's supposed to, but remember it will be trimmed and pressed back in place later. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVMvfW46_uJF8WH_FpH43MTlXzBUOBHaKOkgjcXC1TLG193bAedB0gG2illn-uC2rj9d_1bTW5Lip443CVox3SPIvAQZvXktR9xOttirPfDwd2INOEibG9Z8dAWFuvjlEq7fvIr5Q6lZs/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1t.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVMvfW46_uJF8WH_FpH43MTlXzBUOBHaKOkgjcXC1TLG193bAedB0gG2illn-uC2rj9d_1bTW5Lip443CVox3SPIvAQZvXktR9xOttirPfDwd2INOEibG9Z8dAWFuvjlEq7fvIr5Q6lZs/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1t.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Stitch these seams at 1/2" then trim and finish this seam by serging or zig zagging. Press the seam away from the placket. Topstitch down if ya want.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivgqRADIijR88d5LpJ5o7_qZVbHAxvTtpFbetg2MSVniygjxtA6PDzzKC6sdV5qTsY-TtZ4V0QnXD5vQxk_eTPDuuu98T8snmNrduTaTzzTa-TD9wQoHmWky3yOEFoZeXpD2MN_B62Ye2/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1u.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivgqRADIijR88d5LpJ5o7_qZVbHAxvTtpFbetg2MSVniygjxtA6PDzzKC6sdV5qTsY-TtZ4V0QnXD5vQxk_eTPDuuu98T8snmNrduTaTzzTa-TD9wQoHmWky3yOEFoZeXpD2MN_B62Ye2/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1u.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Your plackets are done! I know you can hardly see them in this fabric, but check out how the neckline now looks when the plackets are overlapped. It will open up more once you put it on a 3D body.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbsuXlnyeANNe0BvB2tXVPU_5j3L_EM0d5sJ8wsUbnK0y7GSj5fgUpsBfdKGWT9huJe3w_cYUHUcHYnMIdZEnl9m4u4DH2dDhSpUJsEaFloM3tPLV1ENH3qyjEq2PVgBmu9cnCFZ5eL3b/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1v.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfbsuXlnyeANNe0BvB2tXVPU_5j3L_EM0d5sJ8wsUbnK0y7GSj5fgUpsBfdKGWT9huJe3w_cYUHUcHYnMIdZEnl9m4u4DH2dDhSpUJsEaFloM3tPLV1ENH3qyjEq2PVgBmu9cnCFZ5eL3b/s1600/V+Neck+Archer+1v.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Continue constructing the shirt per the pattern instructions, using your modified collar stand. Some other things to note:</span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you need help sewing on the collar/stand, I have a </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">tutorial on that here</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you made your shirt sleeveless and need help finishing those edges, the Colette blog has a nice post on </span><a href="http://www.sewalongs.com/hawthorn/hawthorn-v3-armhole" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">finishing armholes with bias binding</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">, which is how I sewed mine here (except, duh, I sewed mine in the flat, not the round).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The buttonhole/button situation will be a little different than your standard Archer (there's fewer of them, yay!), but just make sure you place a button at the fullest point of your bust to avoid placket gaping/bra peekaboo.</span></li>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJN7xvjwOArd5S6pTPX9NLWS5YsoVD-q6Evr39KjObB7s8kvL4jWyar59SGbxm6aJKVtNoSCL3UxH1ICk60Khwj_0c4bD2E-Ne8G0NYgrjh6vEHSnhBY9DpUGb-VSyRsc579SCFN318oS/s1600/archer+v+neck+sleeveless.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJN7xvjwOArd5S6pTPX9NLWS5YsoVD-q6Evr39KjObB7s8kvL4jWyar59SGbxm6aJKVtNoSCL3UxH1ICk60Khwj_0c4bD2E-Ne8G0NYgrjh6vEHSnhBY9DpUGb-VSyRsc579SCFN318oS/s1600/archer+v+neck+sleeveless.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Any questions? Holler!</span></div>
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-->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-12243123917882945952014-06-19T23:10:00.000-04:002014-06-19T23:10:05.850-04:00chardon (m. thistle)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIaWVua4S8HgY47VBY5AEW8ZhvjTYsR31RxtRGq96VEe7t0UYufCUHY22hgqxA537ql9C7R0_8tSvs8ThVOD65FhSpATB-jMkXQ9r0UN5AFj4uSFioRBMzwV6pX0czyVt3Mmizh-Pf504/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1d.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRIaWVua4S8HgY47VBY5AEW8ZhvjTYsR31RxtRGq96VEe7t0UYufCUHY22hgqxA537ql9C7R0_8tSvs8ThVOD65FhSpATB-jMkXQ9r0UN5AFj4uSFioRBMzwV6pX0czyVt3Mmizh-Pf504/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1d.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">PATTERN THROWBACK. To ye olden days of 2013, when it seemed like we were in the midst of an indie pattern boom but were in fact only on the cusp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Last week I was feeling nostalgic for simpler times, so I bypassed my PDF pattern collection and turned to my paper pattern stash. Remember thems? They arrive in your mailbox like a pretty little present amongst the health insurance invoices and jury duty summons. Then you unfold a large sheet of paper and all the pattern pieces are just laying there looking up at you, and you actually hold the physical instruction pages and flip them left to right like you're some kinda scholar. The last paper pattern I bought was Deer & Doe's <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/7-sewing-patterns-chardon-skirt.html">Jupe Chardon</a>, or <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/7-sewing-patterns-chardon-skirt.html">Chardon Skirt</a>, or Thistle Skirt, or however this French-to-English sewing pattern language thing works. It seemed like a fun basic garment to sew so I cracked her open.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkaWr7fcpkZnWYouKIbEVZYyBYnGo5FH1pxpm3YO5ZA942OwQxu4nUxVbil3jdgtFd3-VleyZ6jsa_SUxvesW4gqbPRUQkbkekNQCUWiwl_Cv3t6TP4BKMLHD4qiln-ImWGjXiA6IsNNe/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1i.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkaWr7fcpkZnWYouKIbEVZYyBYnGo5FH1pxpm3YO5ZA942OwQxu4nUxVbil3jdgtFd3-VleyZ6jsa_SUxvesW4gqbPRUQkbkekNQCUWiwl_Cv3t6TP4BKMLHD4qiln-ImWGjXiA6IsNNe/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1i.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Yuck photos.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chardon is a simple unlined A-line skirt with in-seam pockets and stitched box pleats for shaping at the waist. I liked the no-waistband look and forgiving fit. You can add belt loops or a tie or a contrasting band but I skipped that noise this time. The skirt is finished with a waist facing and a regular zipper in the center back. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkxdkmRo-ngB3fmCIK6TcnxuP4Zq6Oik-cCVkx3SP2PKtqHCIdjq1dciEzJ-Wo6shojGYrS3yeEz_Giu6aXlTPBND3ccWyHSc8wksPojhMLQ8r-gww9IY9-e31Oko_37cKYKZBWeA9kPF/s1600/chardon_230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkxdkmRo-ngB3fmCIK6TcnxuP4Zq6Oik-cCVkx3SP2PKtqHCIdjq1dciEzJ-Wo6shojGYrS3yeEz_Giu6aXlTPBND3ccWyHSc8wksPojhMLQ8r-gww9IY9-e31Oko_37cKYKZBWeA9kPF/s1600/chardon_230.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's a quick sew as long as you choose your waist size properly. I dunno what was wrong with me but I had the completely WRONG waist measurement in my head when I picked the size to cut, so the skirt was basically two sizes too small when I went to try it on after stitching down all those pleats. Luckily with this style, you can adjust all the pleats to size the waist up or down. Just make sure you do your math correctly when altering each pleat so you don't over- or under-compensate. And remember to cut a new facing to fit your fattened skirt. Yeah, this skirt took me far longer than it should have because I have a pea brain.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh15zmLS8lQO6K-8ZUXn1p1-UTVJ_tVDmts6EpBvf1-Lbo42tG3l_hgtwbKTKlpAdqRZz1FQcfv1YUDA2zKwjPe8ctktrNoiVoPjagsX6vehKuq6VThn3k9tZOKkU4CB_ZTcWgqi-0dsNSA/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1c.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh15zmLS8lQO6K-8ZUXn1p1-UTVJ_tVDmts6EpBvf1-Lbo42tG3l_hgtwbKTKlpAdqRZz1FQcfv1YUDA2zKwjPe8ctktrNoiVoPjagsX6vehKuq6VThn3k9tZOKkU4CB_ZTcWgqi-0dsNSA/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1c.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I made this in a gray striped home decor linen because I apparently enjoy dressing up like a sofa. It was easy fabric to work with and it holds the shape of the pleats nicely. It is pretty poofy, so I tapered the skirt slightly from its original A shape so I wouldn't be mistaken by Philly tourists as the Liberty Bell. Wow, stellar joke, right? If you want to see TRUE POOF, <a href="http://instagram.com/p/pZZU6qpB6d/">check out</a> what swallowed me whole at work yesterday.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-CdTUYyNnYVuQq0BHm6szSmCx0zdRS3Ioc41M44T_wrDNCcFIymnptGsyLuswiIjKyIfvdPqvNxaVJsm0fzmHy3DYMj87nQIaiuKPm8Y1RX8lh83gK7BmVvHKY49fGDdPx_ODZY9I-MP3/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1f.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-CdTUYyNnYVuQq0BHm6szSmCx0zdRS3Ioc41M44T_wrDNCcFIymnptGsyLuswiIjKyIfvdPqvNxaVJsm0fzmHy3DYMj87nQIaiuKPm8Y1RX8lh83gK7BmVvHKY49fGDdPx_ODZY9I-MP3/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1f.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I serged all seams before pressing them open. The bottom of the waist facing is also serged. I'd recommend understitching the facing and tacking it down at the side seams as well so it stays put.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyjQ8nfreiQFx1ZnJyiAjNir1JHoTMdasninGwyvp7tZbdacEWJA7f-S0UhwIeOTJ070eYrY7_dPnYVHlIGTI2Ph5JWj52K5Y5mOJq2HHJ9cdbOVklZ3lCg_23PssLPDIvMh5PcLBxEq0/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1j.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyjQ8nfreiQFx1ZnJyiAjNir1JHoTMdasninGwyvp7tZbdacEWJA7f-S0UhwIeOTJ070eYrY7_dPnYVHlIGTI2Ph5JWj52K5Y5mOJq2HHJ9cdbOVklZ3lCg_23PssLPDIvMh5PcLBxEq0/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1j.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The navy top I'm wearing is a new <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/archer-button-up-shirt">Archer Shirt</a>, another homage to 2013. Though let's be real; I'm still addicted to this pattern. I modified it by <a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/05/22/archer-variation-no-1/">making it sleeveless</a>, curving the front placket into a V-shape at the neck so it lays flat, and omitting the collar but leaving the stand. You can see another version of this variation on my Instagram <a href="http://instagram.com/p/n_3yNvpB8Y/">here</a>. I may blog about that one day because I wear it like twice a week and the fabric was a gift from Internet pen pal and fellow Grainline addict, <a href="http://everythingelsewedo.wordpress.com/">Ash M. Higgs</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I like my new outfit but this photoshoot just made me realize the dire situation of my bangs. In half my photos, my bangs are either in my eyes all Grudge girl style, or I'm in the middle of swinging them out of my eyes, which does not at all look sexy beach bombshell like I imagine in my head:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4TMRimuEcE18CI9iI_0OxgwG9sazzUlvUZGx5TQ9bZCTf9YjdHnSwzTL6eT4asJon_oKF3j8HJPXtQu0wYnH8tyWupThHiDMMEjQEr2yY2ajI7i-LUvXllFZAz8FQF1tSDV1XSzAtSI2/s1600/Bangs.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4TMRimuEcE18CI9iI_0OxgwG9sazzUlvUZGx5TQ9bZCTf9YjdHnSwzTL6eT4asJon_oKF3j8HJPXtQu0wYnH8tyWupThHiDMMEjQEr2yY2ajI7i-LUvXllFZAz8FQF1tSDV1XSzAtSI2/s1600/Bangs.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, are any of you still trying to catch up with 2013's (or earlier) patterns or are you always ready for the next great thing?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">P.S. Reminder! I'm leading a three-week workshop on Sewing Knits at <a href="http://butcherssewshop.com/">Butcher's Sew Shop</a> in south Philly on Monday nights starting June 30th. If you wanna join up, you can use coupon code <b>4SQUAREWALLS</b> at checkout to get <b><i>20% off </i></b>the registration fee ! ! ! ! There are a few spots left, so <a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/#!classes/cxth">sign up here</a>. Scroll down to Special Workshops.</span></div>
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-CdTUYyNnYVuQq0BHm6szSmCx0zdRS3Ioc41M44T_wrDNCcFIymnptGsyLuswiIjKyIfvdPqvNxaVJsm0fzmHy3DYMj87nQIaiuKPm8Y1RX8lh83gK7BmVvHKY49fGDdPx_ODZY9I-MP3/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1f.jpg" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-HZ2rspcisHU%2FU6OTHrZlfFI%2FAAAAAAAAIB8%2FQarKb2873uQ%2Fs1600%2FChardon%2BSkirt%2B1i.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkaWr7fcpkZnWYouKIbEVZYyBYnGo5FH1pxpm3YO5ZA942OwQxu4nUxVbil3jdgtFd3-VleyZ6jsa_SUxvesW4gqbPRUQkbkekNQCUWiwl_Cv3t6TP4BKMLHD4qiln-ImWGjXiA6IsNNe/s1600/Chardon+Skirt+1i.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-37845530262012588792014-06-05T14:37:00.000-04:002014-06-05T15:29:05.018-04:00red ava jacket<div 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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Hi, little cuties. This is my third post since last Thursday, which surprises no one more than me. But I gotta show you this red-as-red-gets jacket. It's red enough that I could probably wear this as part of a Sarah Palin costume for Halloween, but that topical humor ship has long since sailed. Still glad I took off my glasses for these photos anyway.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAjFXArz4moRLtXoDt_gI4Ei0wLLW1JF8UUHJuv3t7E1r6qM4bWmIrx8r5w-st4UwTJkDr-lw1aFuyly3W6NU8Y6UkyN2EtA4rxhpMBSHdoeeO30NdlS0FZjJZrCH9Ihbl16FbvpmEspD/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1a.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAjFXArz4moRLtXoDt_gI4Ei0wLLW1JF8UUHJuv3t7E1r6qM4bWmIrx8r5w-st4UwTJkDr-lw1aFuyly3W6NU8Y6UkyN2EtA4rxhpMBSHdoeeO30NdlS0FZjJZrCH9Ihbl16FbvpmEspD/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1a.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is the <a href="http://bluegingerdoll.com/collections/jackets-coats/products/the-ava-jacket-pdf-pattern">Ava Jacket</a>, a new release by <a href="http://bluegingerdoll.com/">Bluegingerdoll Patterns</a>, my first garment made from this independent company. FULL-UP DISCLOSURE: I was a pattern tester for the Ava jacket. I did not get paid, though I did receive a rough draft of the pattern for free. I then pored over the instructions and worked hard to determine whether the pattern came together well and if everything was clearly laid out. I made a muslin first, based directly on the original pattern and instructions, then made this red-red version based on the FINAL edited instructions she sent us, while implementing some design modifications of my own.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQBfwNLqG-uUYQEyLmpc4SAPQu9t43bbCG2SZ0vv8piWWnPS_eofzUlFw9Zt08IwDZZtgAMgNpcDwXq_2zl3eDYqeRAtZAxNITgrLUfFzCfZvoHPCvmmajhSsoSkPj_kh78n3PMP_3qqy/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1b.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQBfwNLqG-uUYQEyLmpc4SAPQu9t43bbCG2SZ0vv8piWWnPS_eofzUlFw9Zt08IwDZZtgAMgNpcDwXq_2zl3eDYqeRAtZAxNITgrLUfFzCfZvoHPCvmmajhSsoSkPj_kh78n3PMP_3qqy/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1b.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm blogging about it by choice, because 1) I have a new handmade garment to show you guys, and this blog is primarily about show-and-tell, 2) I want to help spread the word of the pattern release on behalf of a hard-working and relatively new designer I admire, and 3) I want to provide a helpful review of a new pattern on my blog so when others are deciding whether or not to buy it, I can be a reliable resource. I just want to be transparent about the pattern testing process, in case there are any doubts about my motives! (<a href="http://closetcasefiles.com/pattern-testing/">See here</a> for more discussion.) This should be one of my last pattern test/blog tour garments for awhile, so if it annoys you at all (and I understand why it would), just know that the interbloggy promotion should be calming down for awhile.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Ava Jacket is a fully-lined kimono-sleeved swing jacket. It features a full lining, a wide shawl collar, loose 3/4-length sleeves and turned-backed cuffs. The cuffs and collar can be made in the same or contrasting fabric.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAjpbHTnGfZHfZy8BBZSBpYyo37QzlU24FMVLxGNYBNXCgttlGNAxfxGQp3Reao1yhPY1ri__4L9usqd2i3DZvWDiwRlkjfJIN3etUSAGvbTXmQaTKVmUFc8_Ra8afqhiY4dTcsw8WiW1/s1600/Ava+Jacket.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAjpbHTnGfZHfZy8BBZSBpYyo37QzlU24FMVLxGNYBNXCgttlGNAxfxGQp3Reao1yhPY1ri__4L9usqd2i3DZvWDiwRlkjfJIN3etUSAGvbTXmQaTKVmUFc8_Ra8afqhiY4dTcsw8WiW1/s1600/Ava+Jacket.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Images via </span><a href="http://bluegingerdoll.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bluegingerdoll.com</a></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bluegingerdoll is known for her vintage-inspired aesthetic, which I admit isn't really my normal style. So for this wearable version, I omitted the lining, significantly reduced the width of the shawl collar, and narrowed the sleeves and cuffs (probably too much). I made it in a lightweight, drapey, poly crepey fabric so the flared back would drape gently and swish around. I was hoping for a more blazer-esque modern look with these changes.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbw3Czq_ORSg69qqbscX63of6p8Ve9gyhZ72X6GW4JzLM_J23u2U9MMT1hI3Kr-_kRbpDqeqUm3KzNBy-h4qhnar8r0NRnZ6SgDS-F-dryovzpaZduSgRtoVpy6BL-F5yaRleJrWgjP5z8/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1d.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbw3Czq_ORSg69qqbscX63of6p8Ve9gyhZ72X6GW4JzLM_J23u2U9MMT1hI3Kr-_kRbpDqeqUm3KzNBy-h4qhnar8r0NRnZ6SgDS-F-dryovzpaZduSgRtoVpy6BL-F5yaRleJrWgjP5z8/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1d.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Some things to note about this pattern. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>FIT:</b> The jacket is easy to fit because it's built with generous ease and has kimono sleeves. I made a size 8 based on my bust and waist measurements, which seemed to work out fine. It was my fault that I narrowed these sleeves a bit too much which makes it hard to roll up the cuffs. I do find that as I'm wearing it, the shoulder seams slip backwards, so I'm often chucking the jacket forward to realign it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>CONSTRUCTION: </b>There aren't many pieces to put together as far as jackets go, but there is a lotttttt of hand-stitching. The collar shell is hand-stitched to the facing, the cuffs are catch-stitched to the inside of the jacket, the hem is catch-stitched, and then the entire lining is hand-stitched to the jacket shell. Lordy lord lord. Believe me, I tried to get around some of it because that's not normally my thang. It may be yours, though! I machine-edgestitched the collar shell down for a clean finish, like you would normally do on a collar stand or waistband facing, for instance. You can kinda see that at the top of the photo of the jacket innards here:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiG1zNG1qYVnySiBkAAq5EjRzRsdhytnZTxWu_V65nEWpjU2C9f0UhJ0ADQnx5OfGvJKX4CbtGV9ZoYOtJgQfDYvYTXHwGRUO3HBacjfUs0fMhYhwbJS9GokbqJwSwiDH3OUwJqV0MdcB0/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1e.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiG1zNG1qYVnySiBkAAq5EjRzRsdhytnZTxWu_V65nEWpjU2C9f0UhJ0ADQnx5OfGvJKX4CbtGV9ZoYOtJgQfDYvYTXHwGRUO3HBacjfUs0fMhYhwbJS9GokbqJwSwiDH3OUwJqV0MdcB0/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1e.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I also left off the lining entirely, which was actually difficult to figure out how to do properly, since a lot of raw edges that you catch-stitched down, like on the cuffs and hem, are supposed to be covered up by a lining. I French-seamed everything and used lace tape to cover the raw edge of the hems, which I then turned up and blindstitched down by hand. I only had lace seam binding/hem tape, and it's white, and it looks terrible, so I almost plan to replace it with something red once I go notion shopping. With the dip of the swingy hem, the white hem tape is often flashed to the outside world. Ick.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcMwY5A4AxEshPrYYU2HxIfuhanaV5UcQNXVNMNxtHtaLWP3sh2si31suvFF57C_UgHcg_NpOMmcQ0ypUz1NQ3JBcR55P2murUNnCli1EdQH0W-rztsAjI-UjusZWY8H61scAhBQ_RnL/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1g.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcMwY5A4AxEshPrYYU2HxIfuhanaV5UcQNXVNMNxtHtaLWP3sh2si31suvFF57C_UgHcg_NpOMmcQ0ypUz1NQ3JBcR55P2murUNnCli1EdQH0W-rztsAjI-UjusZWY8H61scAhBQ_RnL/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1g.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With the test version, I struggled with the instructions for sewing the bottom of the front lapels; it gets confusing with all those corners of the collar shell, facing and eventually the lining. Abby did a good job working on that part and including more guidance for the final version. Still, it's a bit hard for me to wrap my head around how it's really supposed to come together. I made it work and it looks fine, but I'm not entirely sure I did it as instructed so I would like to see this demonstrated more in-depth with photos of a real garment versus the illustrations.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DDCUdu_JbJ4fxGRBBU7o44ddZOv7Z4o_rV2ky284vF3_tBD2oeyivzTA3zrXwQ4A9fTELQcpYn27xHKGWuvEtTpnqgtDUuZRnkkgZss_ohciFkNdN0iATns9F3XrBfel-GJn9mL5S5Kt/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1f.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DDCUdu_JbJ4fxGRBBU7o44ddZOv7Z4o_rV2ky284vF3_tBD2oeyivzTA3zrXwQ4A9fTELQcpYn27xHKGWuvEtTpnqgtDUuZRnkkgZss_ohciFkNdN0iATns9F3XrBfel-GJn9mL5S5Kt/s1600/Ava+Jacket+1f.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I like my red Ava jacket because it's unlike anything else I own. I'm a pear-shape so I often avoid jackets and tops with flared hems, but I think I like the silhouette of this one. It's a nice summer-weight garment to throw on for extra coverage or to add a knock-out punch of color to an outfit. I have a dreamy idea of an Ava in a silky floral, to keep up with the kimono jacket trend going on (right? Wut r fashun?).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Ava was released along with the curve-hugging <a href="http://bluegingerdoll.com/products/the-betsy-pencil-skirt-paper-pattern">Betsy pencil skirt</a>, which you'll find on many other testers' blogs. It's incredibly flattering on everyone I've seen so far and the little details -- like the button tabs on Version A -- are cute, so I'm actually tempted to splurge for the pattern even though I rarely wear pencil skirts these days! Abby of BGD carefully picked testers with different body types and with varying degrees of blog popularity, which I'm sure we can all appreciate. Check them out:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">29th May – <a href="http://tanyamaile.com/">Tanya at MrsHughes</a> (Betsy skirt)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1st June – <a href="http://sewnbyelizabeth.blogspot.com.au/">Liz at Sewn by Elizabeth </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2nd June – <a href="http://www.uandmii.co.uk/">T at uandmii</a> (Betsy skirt)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3rd June – <a href="http://young-broke-and-fabulous.blogspot.com/">Mary at Young, Broke & Fabulous</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">4th June – <a href="http://www.idlefancy.com/">Mary at Idle Fancy</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">5th June – <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com.au/">Andrea at foursquarewalls</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">6th June– <a href="http://tanyamaile.com/">Tanya at MrsHughes</a> (Ava jacket)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">7th June - <a href="http://www.scavengerhuntblog.com/">Melissa at Scavenger hunt </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">8th June - <a href="http://www.uandmii.co.uk/">T at uandmii</a> (Ava jacket)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Have you sewn a Bluegingerdoll pattern yet? What do you think of the new ones?</span></div>
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walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-36738806688270306302014-06-02T17:52:00.001-04:002014-06-02T17:52:20.322-04:00craftsy + butcher's + a plaid dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">There is a finished object sighting in this post, but I gotta yap about some other things before we get to that. First, a sincere thanks to all those who commented on </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/05/sewing-for-money.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">my last post</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> about my recent career change. Your support means everything, and I appreciate your willingness to discuss your own career goals and express your desires and/or hesitations about following a similar path. A lot of you said that you aren't "good enough" at sewing to even consider earning money from it. Believe me, you're better than you think, and you're probably better than me. It's amazing what you can do when you set the bar higher for yourself.</span></div>
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<b>Craftsy Blog:</b> Okay, time for some self-promotion. I've joined the ranks of sewing superstars <a href="http://www.astitchingodyssey.com/">Marie</a>, <a href="http://luckylucille.com/">Rochelle</a>, <a href="http://alidamakes.com/">Alida</a>, <a href="http://www.sewmaris.com/">Maris</a> and others and am now a regular contributor to the <a href="http://www.craftsy.com/blog/">Craftsy blog</a>. I will be posting for the sewing category of their blog about twice a month. My first post is about knit fabrics (surprise), and tips for hemming them. Apparently I'm really into hemming stuff lately. <a href="http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/how-to-hem-knit-fabric/">Check it out</a> and let me know if you have a technique to add.</div>
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<a href="http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/how-to-hem-knit-fabric/"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEiUQ0ryvO64dr-M7TsvFNt6gMJYkkscfH7gOh2KXQiXGIrLVIp4gUQh_28K_6uDyyfQF4XjrL9JDBlBJwe5U0rgFtNsC9xCFOr6Oe2LwggBcBosL7qDYpRQqbrfNHYmSjjGZI7WPEKdGAOepmCquvEVKo1JegQ4lBARTbTR1k-tdiO132Z4mCubDjWlqCMEckvpXjs" /></a></div>
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<b>Knits Workshop: </b>omg. A friend of a friend of a friend (alright, we're all friends now) just opened a beautiful sewing studio in Queen Village of south Philly. It's called <a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/">Butcher's Sew Shop</a>, named in honor of the family-owned butcher shop that occupied the space for almost 80 years. Starting mid-June, they will be hosting intensive sewing classes, like flat patternmaking, draping, and various levels of garment construction from beginner to advanced. There are also shorter workshops and BYO stitch nights, and <i>lil' ole me</i> will be teaching a workshop called Sewing Knits (surprise). There will be three installments of the course on Monday evenings from 6-9pm starting June 30th. If you live in or near Philadelphia and would like to learn how to make the Deer & Doe <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/29-tops-plantain-t-shirt.html">Plantain T-Shirt</a>, come hang out with us! To sign up, <a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/#!classes/cxth">visit here</a> and scroll down to the Special Workshops section to find "Sewing Knits". </div>
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<a href="http://www.butcherssewshop.com/"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvqfn1QtHX9dJQrKLo6zobrdBA0BHV_OD-ZTAzGmo7osJdx3M9mqp15SKhTTMqK0G8vcUY9wD1sXBvVmFBSZBR7kRI39F39DEaeSsPi9cju_mhpxUIQCF41I56AgdF0XhY_xswofLYYxl/s1600/Butcher's+Logo+Final.jpg" /></a></div>
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Alright, onward.</div>
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To round out this theme in threes, here's a dress made from a knit (surprise). Coincidence? Maybeh. I finished it surprisingly quickly so I am glad to throw it in this post with the rest of these knitty announcements.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nZFWpDlAHR1a-EUMx0aDv471KiRCiI8b-d559dyeKIMMUjfu6eauMguxbknnvcC9sOtD3XUQgkxj5TT2pWWoi2SIU_7pOP0kTspAQfUatCzEIHachslIE1gc7LR4V2wAgTFBSn5OYMAx/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1a.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nZFWpDlAHR1a-EUMx0aDv471KiRCiI8b-d559dyeKIMMUjfu6eauMguxbknnvcC9sOtD3XUQgkxj5TT2pWWoi2SIU_7pOP0kTspAQfUatCzEIHachslIE1gc7LR4V2wAgTFBSn5OYMAx/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1a.jpg" /></a></div>
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I was afraid that sewing a dress in this colorway of plaid would be too autumnal or Christmasy or something else that would make people on the street be like "SHE CRAZY." Turns out, people on the street don't notice things like the <i>colorway</i> of my <i>plaid</i>, if you can believe it. They may think I'm a Catholic school girl, however, which is slightly more of a problem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_tja6QM7VEtH3gF5mW8cBfmrP46h5zoNiclEP3b7f5_BPzohuZ3UZJHS5Tpx84xQPHRTIPaPjg74-6X4Ipdfe5inEd6uXwt1XedHRdbvGxvZs63UsPBk_ZSsHBMoohEmzOy92Ahl8Bns/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1b.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_tja6QM7VEtH3gF5mW8cBfmrP46h5zoNiclEP3b7f5_BPzohuZ3UZJHS5Tpx84xQPHRTIPaPjg74-6X4Ipdfe5inEd6uXwt1XedHRdbvGxvZs63UsPBk_ZSsHBMoohEmzOy92Ahl8Bns/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1b.jpg" /></a></div>
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The pattern is <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6599-products-22992.php?page_id=96">McCalls 6599</a>, the same pattern I used for a <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2012/11/stripey.html">striped knit dress</a> in 2012. I loved that dress to the point of spilling coffee all down the front of the skirt. I miss it. Playing with the direction of stripes and plaids is always fun, so this princess seam bodice and flared skirt are good foundations for that sort of thing. I cut the side pieces on the bias, though the pattern doesn't call for it. It's a pattern meant for a woven fabric, so as with the striped dress, I sized down and cut the back on the fold. All seams are serged and hems are coverstitched.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4krubV9HLSddGDIOeTpDfbtqiXaSPa2mLJV4CE8p8OPOL8F7jtKlGrKmsSO6SG3o6Fbej5hBp4F31fKAUCIH-5mk16wPTW9RqJp-i6dSHKQ5nOwZRS0JPfrfyJnUhCbcnrXIOSrHZRJ7u/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1d.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4krubV9HLSddGDIOeTpDfbtqiXaSPa2mLJV4CE8p8OPOL8F7jtKlGrKmsSO6SG3o6Fbej5hBp4F31fKAUCIH-5mk16wPTW9RqJp-i6dSHKQ5nOwZRS0JPfrfyJnUhCbcnrXIOSrHZRJ7u/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1d.jpg" /></a></div>
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The fabric feels like a double knit and has nice body, which makes it a breeze to sew except at major seam intersections. I bought it from Jomar, a Philly discount fabric store where almost everything is $3.99/yd or less. I went on a major shopping spree there this weekend... I know, after confessing to you all how broke I am. But I set a limit of $100 and got 14 pieces of fabric, or a total of 25 yards, which I hope will keep me busy for awhile. I've already sewn three garments! See? I do still obsessively sew for myself when I have inspiration.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajErj-4_bPiP1U82y_erelcklbQIRqN35S06bybeC2g6ePsiKCjpfL89Odgze1NjSVHuUF5mWidowXGEW6PgFr2JMHRaMQ_ZOf7G0C1g_HHWd3Qy9AZZDT3C03GmqCPm5v3btkLny3HNp/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1c.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajErj-4_bPiP1U82y_erelcklbQIRqN35S06bybeC2g6ePsiKCjpfL89Odgze1NjSVHuUF5mWidowXGEW6PgFr2JMHRaMQ_ZOf7G0C1g_HHWd3Qy9AZZDT3C03GmqCPm5v3btkLny3HNp/s1600/Plaid+Dress+1c.jpg" /></a></div>
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Anyone else sewing plaids for summer?</div>
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Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-17412866262616906042014-05-29T01:45:00.000-04:002014-05-29T01:45:25.161-04:00sewing for money<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">$ewing for Money. Do you do it? <i>Would</i> you do it? Would you do it full-time?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dGZtHu_5HmH1NXRIiNrfRj5CYDTg0HxwxL9opLyy1Kf7a59ErLcURhD6yncJe0dLBsrVd2Pl1qOMWXjCGvQ9Oexu6IKNRoafNNQ8kympzzDiq-HcyYC3aQNHk29xi0Rzx3lBWfecHtBZ/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dGZtHu_5HmH1NXRIiNrfRj5CYDTg0HxwxL9opLyy1Kf7a59ErLcURhD6yncJe0dLBsrVd2Pl1qOMWXjCGvQ9Oexu6IKNRoafNNQ8kympzzDiq-HcyYC3aQNHk29xi0Rzx3lBWfecHtBZ/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">No Georgies were harmed during the taking of this photo.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">We've probably all mused over this topic at some point. When you practice a skilled trade, especially one like sewing that is so practical yet so rare, after awhile you start to wonder if you could earn some cash from it. Or even make it your career and your livelihood. If you love your hobby, why not pursue it wholeheartedly? Why yank yourself away from the purr of your sewing machine for your obnoxious morning commute, or pretend you're working when you're actually reading sewing blogs at your cubicle all day (ahem)? On the other hand, if you love your hobby, why monetize it and turn it into a stressor in your life? Or most importantly: why spend precious time and resources sewing for OTHER people who don't even love you unconditionally? I battled with these thoughts for over two years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It was a weighty decision, but this past February I quit my full-time office job to become a seamstress. I'd been in fund development (grant writing and database management) for non-profit organizations for about four years. I thought I had found an ideal career for me: I was involved in social services to benefit vulnerable people in the local community, but working behind the scenes in a role where I could still be comfortable as a detail-focused introvert. I was promoted last year and figured the comfy salary could make up for whatever else I felt was missing. And yet despite how I thought I should enjoy my role, I never truly did. Once I realized a passion for sewing as a hobby in 2011, I could never shake the idea that it should be more than a hobby.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JCpsY0LlGe3Sao-eGDobqKnZZCcoRBfwMcShFPINdtOaxtn5hZ5Sc1HUVZMmnwQGBdrI7vfIC0tXDYs4f-hY8zDa71m9x7VW7O1nrpKDswagzm6pV5zJ1wBP1h-fg5IFYtHW-NcuB3yx/s1600/Resignation+Letter.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, I took a photo of my resignation letter. I felt simultaneously idiotic and liberated.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JCpsY0LlGe3Sao-eGDobqKnZZCcoRBfwMcShFPINdtOaxtn5hZ5Sc1HUVZMmnwQGBdrI7vfIC0tXDYs4f-hY8zDa71m9x7VW7O1nrpKDswagzm6pV5zJ1wBP1h-fg5IFYtHW-NcuB3yx/s1600/Resignation+Letter.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I always laugh nervously when I tell people I quit my "real" job to sew, I guess as a way to ward off initial judgment before I am able to justify myself. Fortunately it doesn't need much justifying; so far, this decision is usually congratulated and celebrated in what feels like a sincere way. Even by my parents, who understandably worry about my financial well-being. On reflection, it seems like other people were always the ones asking and encouraging me to sell my services or my handmade items, and it was always me coming up with excuses for why that was implausible. </span><i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Oh, I'm not a designer. Oh, I'm not skilled enough. Uh, I have a Sociology degree, for god's sake. Oh, I can't afford to leave my job. Oh, I don't even know where I would start.</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And yet, every Sunday night, that feeling of dread for the work week ahead would creep over me. How was I going to slog through 40 more hours on my ass at a computer in the office? If I spend each workday thinking about how I'd rather be sewing, why am I not sewing? I felt like I might as well try it while I still could.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9evc4KPqOdRJwZu-tYfNt6zrZ1kINGq7l0RyPsyFXYM_37a7Me6iPvROPYTW4yfKgjGE3CoeJVM0RRPjRGfEOEfxO7KyS41ZklGqk2tnbohx8U4yZinfs66ivGwvrCYzlYwLiiHEhmKi/s1600/Ballet+Tutus.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I sewed the tulle on these tutus. 8 yards each!</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY9evc4KPqOdRJwZu-tYfNt6zrZ1kINGq7l0RyPsyFXYM_37a7Me6iPvROPYTW4yfKgjGE3CoeJVM0RRPjRGfEOEfxO7KyS41ZklGqk2tnbohx8U4yZinfs66ivGwvrCYzlYwLiiHEhmKi/s1600/Ballet+Tutus.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's been three months now, so I've had a little bit of time to absorb the reality of it and adjust to my new lifestyle (and pay cut, if I'mma be real). I almost wasn't going to "announce" anything at all to my blog readers because I thought no one would give a damn, but I realize that many of you have considered making a similar move or have gone through it yourselves. There are many paths for sewing-related jobs, and I took one that a lot of you would probably never want for yourselves, but I figure I could still be a resource, an inspiration, or a deterrent for those who may be thinking of making a similar change.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So what do I DO now? The majority of my time is spent working in a <a href="http://www.seamstressforhire.com/">sewing studio</a> that does commissioned work for custom garments, alterations, home decor, accessories, costumes, design prototypes, everything. Less frequently, I help sew for a local <a href="http://www.sweetlukamo.com/">baby apparel company</a> and a youth ballet company whenever they need me.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVV_nsVOhNh11nqJP7DIvuxI3KEloZ4HMkUsvTSX-TDKksjPd3DaAL4o-OPxLs9JK8lFeEliWXRJWi97eYszZ73bcIAQ_If-WtawJPwUaoXYSx8zkGgrNX6S6yaQNdpKvOMCk30dJci-Q/s1600/Pocket+Hoops.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pocket hoops I sewed for an 18th c. costume. Includes steel boning and musket balls (?!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnVV_nsVOhNh11nqJP7DIvuxI3KEloZ4HMkUsvTSX-TDKksjPd3DaAL4o-OPxLs9JK8lFeEliWXRJWi97eYszZ73bcIAQ_If-WtawJPwUaoXYSx8zkGgrNX6S6yaQNdpKvOMCk30dJci-Q/s1600/Pocket+Hoops.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I decided to take this route because I wanted to tread lightly and work for someone else who already knew how to run a business and could help me improve my sewing skills. While I felt ready to pursue sewing as a money-maker, I was not ready to be an entrepreneur. I certainly considered learning how to draft patterns to sell or opening my own Etsy shop, but I wanted a lower-stakes way to make sure that I could spend all my days sewing (not for myself) and still enjoy it.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgenvBZ1U2Dw90WVOsxWe4HXh_CCcml-BelqGHUDDRy7I__4_-uIqPTyVuKW3TJa-qN7h6GiebqcYDXrDn7Z_4vSunfpFb9qgqiS2F7kI6Z2b8-ey1KmQ8bhQfj6rge2rQgmxgZm5eNuSHi/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dizzy? Girls' dresses / quilting cotton print explosion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgenvBZ1U2Dw90WVOsxWe4HXh_CCcml-BelqGHUDDRy7I__4_-uIqPTyVuKW3TJa-qN7h6GiebqcYDXrDn7Z_4vSunfpFb9qgqiS2F7kI6Z2b8-ey1KmQ8bhQfj6rge2rQgmxgZm5eNuSHi/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.2.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I also wanted to move out of my sewing comfort zone. Sure, I can slap together a half-assed Archer shirt or a slouchy knit tee for myself, but can I alter a pattern to fit someone else's measurements? Can I sew with more difficult and delicate fabrics? Can I sew eight silk blouses in one week, or 40 pairs of lycra ballet pants in a weekend? Can I drape chiffon pleats on a dressform? Can I make a rub-off pattern of someone's storebought garment and modify it to their wishes, then put it all together without instructions? Can I baby-hem a mile-long bridal gown without losing my mind?</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQdhIKE6CRJvyO6_XZ_silTyYOYYDP6i0z2GUF28HkxvtCk-x2ZJZG4ge2qZtWW0k1NZu16WzZPprNcUmo-c2hm5Y51aEHoKNI8wddR6KxYsuO6GLNVSAWc6AfAkhyphenhyphendV9dJR1F6q6ZWJl/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedding dress about to be altered</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQdhIKE6CRJvyO6_XZ_silTyYOYYDP6i0z2GUF28HkxvtCk-x2ZJZG4ge2qZtWW0k1NZu16WzZPprNcUmo-c2hm5Y51aEHoKNI8wddR6KxYsuO6GLNVSAWc6AfAkhyphenhyphendV9dJR1F6q6ZWJl/s1600/Sewing+for+Money+1.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Turns out I can, but it's certainly not easy. In fact, the job is incredibly difficult. The pressure is on when someone's paying you to create or alter a garment that is very important to them. I have to speed up my process and be extremely accurate without sacrificing quality, which is daunting when you're learning new techniques and using tools that aren't your own (though my boss did oblige my request for fabric glue sticks, which I discussed as one of my favorite sewing tools </span><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/02/my-4-favorite-shirtmaking-tools.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">here</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">). Luckily I work with laid-back people who don't rush or judge (I am still SLOW, especially at alterations for some reason), and we can commiserate with each other over the strange or difficult projects while celebrating small successes like beautiful welt pockets.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPTS4wcxpGzassiBbiOIHF-cuj3RJCJROZ3F7oGZ2LCMHXl_C6qk6W2YVgtKtXppmFX23b04WQKqTKHsabSPFcUxrA_dDhaiQXWhuoIFeLqee8GmD1oUHEBnhrlylCgpdVT84FProa_FL/s1600/Ballet+Pants.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">40 pairs of spandex pants for a boys' ballet performance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPTS4wcxpGzassiBbiOIHF-cuj3RJCJROZ3F7oGZ2LCMHXl_C6qk6W2YVgtKtXppmFX23b04WQKqTKHsabSPFcUxrA_dDhaiQXWhuoIFeLqee8GmD1oUHEBnhrlylCgpdVT84FProa_FL/s1600/Ballet+Pants.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I felt the personal benefits of this career change immediately. Well, for one, I have Mondays off, and it's insane (but no surprise, really) how three-day weekends can boost your morale and productivity 1000%. Hear that, Department of Labor? I also enjoy tackling a variety of projects and testing my sewing skills and abilities on a daily basis. I often get frustrated with myself at how slow or sloppy I can be, but it's satisfying to have a job where you take on and accomplish something new everyday and can notice visible improvements in your work. Plus I get to hang out with the studio dog:</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXCyNZP_-0N4y8eIUCpZMXuoyW8a7RnyKzOc_31ylczw8oxAt9rILeMPVyj46XlbFF8HLppkReysN7kq6UM5thJKMeGpS7P-75e60O12wipIDcBRhaOZcWhqUOcYJ0n2a_SK0c9_GTHJZl/s1600/Dog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXCyNZP_-0N4y8eIUCpZMXuoyW8a7RnyKzOc_31ylczw8oxAt9rILeMPVyj46XlbFF8HLppkReysN7kq6UM5thJKMeGpS7P-75e60O12wipIDcBRhaOZcWhqUOcYJ0n2a_SK0c9_GTHJZl/s1600/Dog.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandy, one of my new colleagues</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All of these opportunities came about via Craigslist, believe it or not, so I had no "connections" beforehand. I was brave enough to include my blog address in my intro e-mails, which actually ended up working in my favor despite the embarrassing modeled poses and excessive use of the words "y'all" and "bad boys" on here. I think it helped to see a visual portfolio of what I've sewn but get a sense of my true (-ish!) personality, too.</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I guess the biggest question you might have is whether I can still find time or energy to sew for myself. I wish I could say that my personal sewing output is the same, but it's not really. Part of that is because I work hourly now, so I'll often squeeze in more work hours at home to help cover dem billz. And a lower income means less fabric bought, and an unwillingness to replace my broken printer to print new PDF patterns, etc. So really, it's more a financial issue than it is a lack of desire to sew for myself. As of yet, I don't resent sewing at all. It still delights and challenges me in such valuable and indescribable ways. I surprisingly feel fulfilled sewing for other people, and can feel satisfied producing a well-made garment, even if I can't (or wouldn't want to, as it usually the case) wear it myself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>So tell me -- </b>if you've made it to the end of this post, god help you -- have any of you had a similar experience of quitting your day job to pursue a passion? Do you sew for a living? Would you want to, or would you never even consider mixing your career with your hobby? Lemme know if you think I'm crazy, though I'm bound to disagree.</span></div>
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automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-SxGS3jjD_GQ%2FU4aVey-frfI%2FAAAAAAAAH60%2Fqr4hS-4wpww%2Fs1600%2FResignation%2BLetter.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JCpsY0LlGe3Sao-eGDobqKnZZCcoRBfwMcShFPINdtOaxtn5hZ5Sc1HUVZMmnwQGBdrI7vfIC0tXDYs4f-hY8zDa71m9x7VW7O1nrpKDswagzm6pV5zJ1wBP1h-fg5IFYtHW-NcuB3yx/s1600/Resignation+Letter.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-24794484386126199852014-05-22T19:56:00.000-04:002014-05-22T19:56:34.853-04:00in the round vs. in the flat<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Are you a round or flat person? Um, lemme rephrase that. When given the choice, do you like to construct your garments using an in-the-round method or in-the-flat method? </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaUvNiUT3OouF0kg-amgM3GcSJLx2bYvmL2ntqndDv36QNqAmkzOWQWhFpKJLyBMBBc5pd21B2U0QS_rUKlmjwRi1zT9ngBQl2IgoD3PMlgbzWTLs3rbot-Ksonai2i_gPGSkuR_vWihP/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.4.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaUvNiUT3OouF0kg-amgM3GcSJLx2bYvmL2ntqndDv36QNqAmkzOWQWhFpKJLyBMBBc5pd21B2U0QS_rUKlmjwRi1zT9ngBQl2IgoD3PMlgbzWTLs3rbot-Ksonai2i_gPGSkuR_vWihP/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.4.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Nettie bodysuit sleeve attached flat</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I don't know what else to call these techniques, really, so if you have no idea what I'm yapping about, here's the basic idea. On a bodice or top, most patterns have you sew the shoulder seams, side seams, and underarm sleeve seams pretty early on in the construction process. This creates round openings for the armholes, neck finishings, bottom opening (t-shirt hem/bodice opening to attach to skirt/etc), and sleeve caps. Here's the </span><a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/scout-woven-tee" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Scout Tee</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> pattern as an example:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BJrE1b47FfnJ8j4IEwm3PqV9J-JDkTT7RA7IgdSk_yAVJlpvDrmyVJY5o2XO_IqgRA0bs6ELAn994rWdanqHCP4EafHwSNMCep7dKhOq6ONbjAjwRyV5lXL0KxQQGvyYiUSAiKXHxzOl/s1600/SCOUT+INSTRUCTIONS.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BJrE1b47FfnJ8j4IEwm3PqV9J-JDkTT7RA7IgdSk_yAVJlpvDrmyVJY5o2XO_IqgRA0bs6ELAn994rWdanqHCP4EafHwSNMCep7dKhOq6ONbjAjwRyV5lXL0KxQQGvyYiUSAiKXHxzOl/s1600/SCOUT+INSTRUCTIONS.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">An alternative method is to leave those seams open so you can construct everything flat instead of in the round. For example, sew only one shoulder seam, attach the neck binding, then sew the other shoulder seam. You can also attach your sleeves and finish your hems BEFORE sewing the side seams and underarm seams. Here's an example from the <a href="http://boutique.deer-and-doe.fr/29-tops-plantain-t-shirt.html">Plantain Tee</a> pattern for attaching sleeves flat:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1LI_Z9HLecsPq5bqIEPSlnv6FwASSAqRKeK2CRBWBoAnQA_jbeswNJVlw9IXQv5wNZyXdGETZg8HOyl47N2Z0cMpBP9x-3ISsFnp9_23kTzZnIF8Dj7FaOI2wAga0YbIrc2cfgeXsk-D/s1600/Plantain.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1LI_Z9HLecsPq5bqIEPSlnv6FwASSAqRKeK2CRBWBoAnQA_jbeswNJVlw9IXQv5wNZyXdGETZg8HOyl47N2Z0cMpBP9x-3ISsFnp9_23kTzZnIF8Dj7FaOI2wAga0YbIrc2cfgeXsk-D/s1600/Plantain.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm pretty fascinated with industrial techniques for making garments. When I "shop," I just turn clothes inside out to inspect the finishing techniques and make<i> Hmmm </i>noises. Of course, the fashion industry's primary goal is making clothing as quickly and cost-efficiently as possible, which means that the way they do things isn't necessarily the best way a home sewer should do them, or the way we even <i>can</i> with our measly little junk machines ;) However, I do strive to find ways to make sewing easier for me, and I will always try alternative methods if I think they will be faster but still achieve the same, or very similar, results. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3e8YrhoubX8vqQ5NG6Pc8Es_KxDMfipolqOlqEnOasx4kMxDReuLGYSFNSvsHhNAnlEhvNYRj3rqJVMLY7bPD7_MdjlzsJKI2d95LCtTmsWBtvjBEk4rsX8Cnq7tjbMpz5H7xdGiH3og1/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.8.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3e8YrhoubX8vqQ5NG6Pc8Es_KxDMfipolqOlqEnOasx4kMxDReuLGYSFNSvsHhNAnlEhvNYRj3rqJVMLY7bPD7_MdjlzsJKI2d95LCtTmsWBtvjBEk4rsX8Cnq7tjbMpz5H7xdGiH3og1/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.8.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Storebought tank with straps attached flat before side seams are sewn</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sewing garments flat is one of those industrial methods that I will almost always turn to if possible. Awhile ago, Colette Patterns' blog featured a guest post from Sharon Blair <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/15-things-home-sewers-can-learn-from-industrial-sewing">explaining different industry practices</a>. One of them was as follows: </span></div>
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<i style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"Perform similar operations at the same time and sew flat. Sew the details first. Set these aside. Then start assembling the garment. Complete as much as you can before joining side seams. Sewing in a tube is more time consuming than sewing flat."</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's true that if you inspect your store-bought garments, you can tell that the side seams are usually sewn last in one continuous line of stitching from the sleeve opening to the hem. Many of my t-shirts have one shoulder seam sewn after the neckband is attached, and even sleeves that were hemmed before the underarm seam was sewn. To keep the serged seam more obscure, it's always pressed and tacked down toward the back of the garment. Would you ever know the differences here if you weren't looking for them?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLgZ4kybcg0hjWH9tyT9IzWatKrN7zS6F9Xaybe2N_opPgRPQah3rhk7-QXxoms5zBnsBh1qp5WO1IETufCEgtkYP0JOB-4_KcFsdSS_qRBfC0-3G3uYRdqvQEXsLUFSt793XGo_4oa19t/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.7.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLgZ4kybcg0hjWH9tyT9IzWatKrN7zS6F9Xaybe2N_opPgRPQah3rhk7-QXxoms5zBnsBh1qp5WO1IETufCEgtkYP0JOB-4_KcFsdSS_qRBfC0-3G3uYRdqvQEXsLUFSt793XGo_4oa19t/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.7.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Storebought t-shirt with sleeves hemmed before side seams sewn</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I often change construction so I can use these methods, too. I never ever set in sleeves, no matter the fabric type or sleeve cap size-- I attach them flat because it's easier to ease the sleeve cap evenly this way. I'll do the same for armhole bindings because it's easier to sew on binding around curves when those curves are not yet attached in a circle. On t-shirt nec kbands, I will leave one shoulder open so I don't have to do any measuring; I'll just cut a long binding piece and "feel the stretch" as I pin it on, then snip off the excess once I reach the other shoulder. For super small hem openings, like the legs of baby leggings, hemming the legs flat is faster than forcing your presser foot around a tiny tube, especially on a coverstitch machine like mine that likes to stall and skip stitches when sewing over seams.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-l7qpP-aFBB0rLO4z765UA1CAAHsDwkNmcRyiE9b2uBQ6Rfg6aYQ6YRTFJFFGpD8Y_1p8sKX8YxF-irrAchhk9XXUscipvw2qeJY58J9b6IdzHFBRIBlJi3ud3JuQ4pr4WsfJJ4l5rdX/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.5.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-l7qpP-aFBB0rLO4z765UA1CAAHsDwkNmcRyiE9b2uBQ6Rfg6aYQ6YRTFJFFGpD8Y_1p8sKX8YxF-irrAchhk9XXUscipvw2qeJY58J9b6IdzHFBRIBlJi3ud3JuQ4pr4WsfJJ4l5rdX/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.5.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I figured everyone else would be lazy like me and prefer the flat construction method. However, when I was pattern-testing the <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/patterns/nettie-pattern">Nettie Bodysuit</a>, I applauded Heather for including instructions for constructing the neckband flat (shown above). She followed up with me to say that other testers didn't like that method, so she changed it back to "in the round" instructions for the published version. Y'all are just some tidy little seamsters, aren'tcha. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So that made me wonder why someone would choose the round over the flat method. Does the end result look cleaner? Do you find that the methods are actually comparable in how easy or fast they seem? Do you use one on certain fabric types only? Or you just prefer to follow the pattern instructions regardless? What's your choice?</span></div>
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaUvNiUT3OouF0kg-amgM3GcSJLx2bYvmL2ntqndDv36QNqAmkzOWQWhFpKJLyBMBBc5pd21B2U0QS_rUKlmjwRi1zT9ngBQl2IgoD3PMlgbzWTLs3rbot-Ksonai2i_gPGSkuR_vWihP/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.4.jpg" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-9o8RVcJz7-o%2FU36ILP0pdsI%2FAAAAAAAAH5M%2F_DX6xoV3Evc%2Fs1600%2FIn%2Bthe%2BFlat%2B1.5.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-l7qpP-aFBB0rLO4z765UA1CAAHsDwkNmcRyiE9b2uBQ6Rfg6aYQ6YRTFJFFGpD8Y_1p8sKX8YxF-irrAchhk9XXUscipvw2qeJY58J9b6IdzHFBRIBlJi3ud3JuQ4pr4WsfJJ4l5rdX/s1600/In+the+Flat+1.5.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-77983459985537363362014-05-07T06:00:00.000-04:002014-05-09T20:12:38.356-04:00stretch<div 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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fVq6MOla2ndi6gOKRT8q6XvYYijkDc5WJaXGnxMu7O8MrkNW6bPb_AY23uMGflLfrjnQG5Da-q_EspJUI8RmeFdqGpJBiqepcwq6bbL4aRjKIaxz_lT99DXoBL8XO_9_pFEyzMm9Htkq/s1600/Nettie+2.3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fVq6MOla2ndi6gOKRT8q6XvYYijkDc5WJaXGnxMu7O8MrkNW6bPb_AY23uMGflLfrjnQG5Da-q_EspJUI8RmeFdqGpJBiqepcwq6bbL4aRjKIaxz_lT99DXoBL8XO_9_pFEyzMm9Htkq/s1600/Nettie+2.3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My doctor told me that with all the hunching forward I do (at the computer, sewing machine, cutting table, ironing board, etc.), I need to stretch my upper body more, like with some regular yoga (or "sewga," as my colleague calls it). Don't want those pectoral muscles to shrink. Eternal slouch!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Have I taken her advice? Uh barely. But I have sewn some stretch garments...? Surely that counts toward something, like my emotional health and blogger points. And I <i>could</i> probably do yoga in this outfit as long as I was home alone with the curtains drawn, so we're getting there.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hHxMjkAHhUCjWbFuRifWYjxzeR2Nn9d2v8coa8BwHkzoS_hEldDfw79fdGt1MaRIUKsAKeelHAoBc-fDxV7meGhj621QUYHodqmtjdjGX5fu9tpOuBjOx2xRgkdbiKnGqtrdbxI-dSj2/s1600/Nettie+2.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5hHxMjkAHhUCjWbFuRifWYjxzeR2Nn9d2v8coa8BwHkzoS_hEldDfw79fdGt1MaRIUKsAKeelHAoBc-fDxV7meGhj621QUYHodqmtjdjGX5fu9tpOuBjOx2xRgkdbiKnGqtrdbxI-dSj2/s1600/Nettie+2.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I was a chuffed little pattern tester for <a href="http://closetcasefiles.com/">Closet Case Files</a>' newest pattern, the <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/patterns/nettie-pattern">Nettie Bodysuit</a>, named after a <a href="http://sownbrooklyn.com/">real Nettie</a> you may know. I remember bodysuits from the 90s as a child, but the appeal of them now is that they stay smooth and tucked in under all the high-waisted skirts I own without all that unsightly scrunched up bulk underneath. I remember Heather's <a href="http://closetcasefiles.com/a-summer-uniform/">debut bodysuit</a> that she wore paired with her Tania culottes last year, and I thought she was a genius. Now she brings her genius to the masses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The pattern comes with two neckline variations (high neck and scoop), three back neckline variations (high neck, medium scoop, and looooow scoop if you dare), and three sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long). Options also include a snap crotch for practicality's sake (interpret as you may), a shelf bra, and a dress length hem for some bodycon sauciness. Here I've made the bodysuit with scoop front neck, medium scoop back, and 3/4 sleeves. What else would you expect of me, really? I did make the snap crotch and I laugh every time I have to re-snap because I'm certainly not graceful at it. Maybe I attached them in the wrong direction.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7s5eHpZ69ge77ZrGeGmiEtIAR60oFxgOKTNnk5OZgRqvHmbcAJLsuTimvCPrJt7MDaS77vnz-b2GVXsG33D9U2uFQbEGFTaGhqpH2vxw9VOD4KJ029QZoLb99PgPcHf-mgZ4HO7Z7dZq/s1600/bodysuit-technical+drawings.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7s5eHpZ69ge77ZrGeGmiEtIAR60oFxgOKTNnk5OZgRqvHmbcAJLsuTimvCPrJt7MDaS77vnz-b2GVXsG33D9U2uFQbEGFTaGhqpH2vxw9VOD4KJ029QZoLb99PgPcHf-mgZ4HO7Z7dZq/s1600/bodysuit-technical+drawings.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Here's Ms. Thang bravely modeling the suit on its own. She's not self-conscious of her dented hips and Barbie-like thigh gap:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7UxNDyuGRfE-K5TpDSrvS6InU6k4BjayYPUtUK5uZdKSKinKIl9Y2vsKIZbnoCL3r1Y6KC9pzJT-TEHTrd473szbpkFMQRXUd-aOqBMWzehOIPck4R7AQnpCQ4c1e2naAVwWj1tCVM0UT/s1600/Nettie+2.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7UxNDyuGRfE-K5TpDSrvS6InU6k4BjayYPUtUK5uZdKSKinKIl9Y2vsKIZbnoCL3r1Y6KC9pzJT-TEHTrd473szbpkFMQRXUd-aOqBMWzehOIPck4R7AQnpCQ4c1e2naAVwWj1tCVM0UT/s1600/Nettie+2.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As you can see (..kinda), the suit is designed for full rear coverage. The leg openings, like the neckline, are bound with self-binding that is pulled quite snugly for a close fit. The whole point of a bodysuit is that it's a close fit. The Nettie has mega negative ease and calls for a fabric with 4-way stretch and 5-10% lycra content. Fabric makes all the difference in the fit of this pattern, so check out Heather's extensive <a href="http://closetcasefiles.com/nettie-sewalong-fabric/">post about Nettie fabrics</a>, as I can't give much more advice than she does.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For this version I used a charcoal heather gray cotton-spandex knit from Girl Charlee (<a href="http://www.girlcharlee.com/heather-charcoal-gray-solid-cotton-jersey-spandex-blend-knit-p-4053.html?cPath=90_116">found here</a>), which has 75% stretch. I made a generous size 8 (probably more like a 10) in the torso and arms and graded out to a size 12 at the hips. <i>EDIT: Heather has since updated the sizing, so by her chart I am a true 8 in the torso now, instead of the 6 I fell in before. If you follow her advice for fabric selection and sizing, you should be fine.</i></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4ZEXlsmf0iMTzVmb65-PpaBly9k9t6yVdcEu7xQE9B_kuzCGFnpFe4MQhM_M0_Y1E9Bsy3HJDiYQrojkFnCpWng2qyzx5gxBDeg6tC1Drh8OFHh2Qd6p9LWSdkgG5iX51fesSTC5Gou_/s1600/Nettie+1.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4ZEXlsmf0iMTzVmb65-PpaBly9k9t6yVdcEu7xQE9B_kuzCGFnpFe4MQhM_M0_Y1E9Bsy3HJDiYQrojkFnCpWng2qyzx5gxBDeg6tC1Drh8OFHh2Qd6p9LWSdkgG5iX51fesSTC5Gou_/s1600/Nettie+1.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm so glad I made this skirt, too. The pattern is a lengthened version of a rub-off I did of an old store-bought skirt. I've decided I really need to start wearing longer (knee-length) skirts, especially in bare-legged weather, but I don't have that many casual ones. I also wanted to copy the RTW way of constructing a waistband like this: it's wide so provides stability and comfort, but there's a hidden interior channel for 3/4" elastic at the top, so the waistband won't flip over or start to droop like my other handmade knit skirts that are only held up with fabric.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I bought this fabric at the same time as the fabric for the Nettie with the intention of wearing them together. Though the fabric colors are both called "charcoal," the grays are pretty different -- the skirt is more blue -- but whatever. There's always an ~element of surprise~ in online fabric shopping. The skirt fabric is a cotton jersey in a "plant silhouette" print, also from Girl Charlee (<a href="http://www.girlcharlee.com/charcoal-gray-plant-silhouettes-cotton-jersey-knit-fabric-p-8603.html">found here</a>). It's pretty cool but pretty similar to the print of my first <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2012/06/cambie-can-it-be.html">Cambie dress</a>, which I didn't realize until I started sewing it. Oh well -- Cambie doesn't get out much these days, but this skirt does. It's very breezy and soft, and the length means it normally stays decent in gusts of wind.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBGClq9P39vkWj40wIPMkidiAGka74Ppdn7_UhdXyvPso9r93FrUUBax4pVJfKDVJg0hFpZ2JgTyQFJj9iX3klQSQhtmGheC4joVaHI5LgsQRj0J29vQpbMrprDsfR1ywTRoAJlEAfwz4/s1600/Nettie+1.7.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBGClq9P39vkWj40wIPMkidiAGka74Ppdn7_UhdXyvPso9r93FrUUBax4pVJfKDVJg0hFpZ2JgTyQFJj9iX3klQSQhtmGheC4joVaHI5LgsQRj0J29vQpbMrprDsfR1ywTRoAJlEAfwz4/s1600/Nettie+1.7.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It's sheer so I lined it in some white fabric I originally bought to line a swimsuit. It's one of those performance knits from JoAnn. I have two swimsuit fabrics in my stash and wavering intention of actually ever making one, so I snatched the lining from the pile when I was in one of those anti-swimsuit moods after eating too many Reese's cups shaped like Easter eggs. DON'T say you can blame me. The lining is attached to the waistband as one with the skirt shell, but hangs free.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVOTWulEoMUfQcDI-hBLiU2_1AXLp7gI-ZFbe3yFI77fcKVnE1BRfmCXaQu03uobrUj7rGVXUn3oIFT_w9lEJDWqkeba3_vFTG-Bu-fCWsO8SgURmayTOVAfbKyi9OOAFhRTg5MWz7fmpg/s1600/Nettie+1.2.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVOTWulEoMUfQcDI-hBLiU2_1AXLp7gI-ZFbe3yFI77fcKVnE1BRfmCXaQu03uobrUj7rGVXUn3oIFT_w9lEJDWqkeba3_vFTG-Bu-fCWsO8SgURmayTOVAfbKyi9OOAFhRTg5MWz7fmpg/s1600/Nettie+1.2.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm planning on recreating this exact outfit in many different fabrics. A striped Nettie is definitely next in the queue. Um, I wonder if Girl Charlee offers in-house credit cards.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you're still not convinced, check out Carolyn's <a href="http://handmadebycarolyn.blogspot.com/2014/04/nettie-by-seven.html">seven Netties</a>, Lauren's <a href="http://lladybird.com/2014/05/02/me-made-may-14-week-1-round-up-nettie/">non-bodysuit Nettie</a>, Lindsay's <a href="http://blog.lindsaywoodward.com/2014/05/the-nettie-dress.html">Nettie dress</a>, Mokosha's <a href="http://mokosha.blogspot.com/2014/05/nettie-ballerina.html">low-back Nettie</a>, and Nettie's <a href="http://sownbrooklyn.com/2014/05/05/netties-en-noir-blanc-et-ivoire/">own Netties</a>. Then get <i><b>your</b> </i>Nettie <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/patterns/nettie-pattern">here</a>. Phew, links.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, do you find time to stretch out your aching sewing muscles with some sewga, or is your doc worried about the inevitable seamstress hunch, too?</span></div>
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--><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-5R_UkH0oOKs%2FU2hA7Yme2AI%2FAAAAAAAAH1I%2F162C4icAQBE%2Fs1600%2FNettie%2B2.3.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9fVq6MOla2ndi6gOKRT8q6XvYYijkDc5WJaXGnxMu7O8MrkNW6bPb_AY23uMGflLfrjnQG5Da-q_EspJUI8RmeFdqGpJBiqepcwq6bbL4aRjKIaxz_lT99DXoBL8XO_9_pFEyzMm9Htkq/s1600/Nettie+2.3.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-91135965175075934852014-05-01T11:30:00.000-04:002014-05-01T22:46:00.106-04:00narrow hem: three ways<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37sqIbB_eEj9NaJZWroMJQc-0HUZ-kujWUPkPH6rw4RXBFschn9mM3vJydQ-4RIJeyd_Ue-eCmpPcxgwK45p2hJs8N_YnRgOH-cRzq87Brf1Wd-lu607oLqcRYesdJY9nz9WzB0yqvbcq/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37sqIbB_eEj9NaJZWroMJQc-0HUZ-kujWUPkPH6rw4RXBFschn9mM3vJydQ-4RIJeyd_Ue-eCmpPcxgwK45p2hJs8N_YnRgOH-cRzq87Brf1Wd-lu607oLqcRYesdJY9nz9WzB0yqvbcq/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I sew a lot of narrow hems these days, and I've tried so many different methods to make them. The majority of tutorials for narrow or rolled hems (that I've seen) include a ton of measuring, trimming, or exhaustive pressing. Boo, ain't got time for that. What if you could make the narrowest of hems doing a minimal amount of all that stuff, and <b>without</b> a rolled hem foot? Yea, I said it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A narrow hem has a finished depth of 1/8" to 1/4". The tiniest versions, baby hems (1/8"), are typically used to keep lightweight garments flowy without weighing down the edges, and to keep the hem of sheer fabrics as inconspicuous as possible. Due to the nature of their narrowness and the nature of the fabrics you will likely be sewing them on, these hems can be tricky to fold and sew evenly if you're doing a standard hem technique of measure-fold-press-measure-fold-press-sew. So here are some alternatives.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>METHOD ONE: WITH A SERGER</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For a 1/4" hem, my favorite method uses a serger for the first step. You can definitely do a similar method with a regular sewing machine, but I prefer the serger because it makes folding the hem easier; the width and sturdiness of the serged stitches help keep the fold perfectly even. You can also adjust the differential feed in case you want to tighten up the edge of your fabric ever so slightly to help with easing in a curved hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">1. </span></b>Set your stitch width so the left needle hits 1/4" away from the raw edges, or just within 1/4". Thread color doesn't necessarily matter as long as your fabric's not too sheer. Serge along the raw edge of the right side of your garment without cutting anything off. <b>IF you're using a regular sewing machine</b>, sew a line of stitches 1/4" from the raw edge, or just within 1/4" if possible.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY_ILbUSWpopdL1kNP8ucDDHtjMSeuG9Y183hApPHaYUKwg1gkPbksEMBlQuBCi0PNmEr6d-NgkYk_a5xr9dyhJRG0Rsmsyqn68-YdQgoqEHi8MTYxWS1cj5PY6OkGx2PGiDyodB9oT22s/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY_ILbUSWpopdL1kNP8ucDDHtjMSeuG9Y183hApPHaYUKwg1gkPbksEMBlQuBCi0PNmEr6d-NgkYk_a5xr9dyhJRG0Rsmsyqn68-YdQgoqEHi8MTYxWS1cj5PY6OkGx2PGiDyodB9oT22s/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCGwGIuSAOOAk8CwxvMDI63KNETWtU-bJuzx6g-WrerNaLaej73ZxTDDLeVHk0tYSpm2aWVFR8g-g9qieMTXSr09osklDBCHXDy_QjNLadaTvVHfN-7TKEmn1ujMQxkL91StdecW_iQYi/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+3.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCGwGIuSAOOAk8CwxvMDI63KNETWtU-bJuzx6g-WrerNaLaej73ZxTDDLeVHk0tYSpm2aWVFR8g-g9qieMTXSr09osklDBCHXDy_QjNLadaTvVHfN-7TKEmn1ujMQxkL91StdecW_iQYi/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+3.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">2.</span></b> Start folding the serged stitches toward the wrong side of the garment the same width as the stitches. Or if you didn't serge the edge, fold the edge under so your first sewn line of stitches juuuust rolls to the wrong side. The width of the stitches does all the measuring for you here. I only do a quick finger press to get the fold going, then immediately start sewing from the wrong side of the garment, using my hands to keep folding the edge before it reaches the presser foot.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sew right along the folded edge, about 1/16" inward. This secures the first fold and makes a guide for stitching on the next fold:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhbC8dISl-q55djM4AVpNiVRlUNrUWDbxjvwgCrRtE61AWO6CPRhu6E0J_OP6zE6uQqzO1KKpephrX4ech98dV0XEEmJ-t32O0fn30gujqfv91dhZyTkF4WKfXxvvNhYiRILe7BZ5Nlj2/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+4.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhbC8dISl-q55djM4AVpNiVRlUNrUWDbxjvwgCrRtE61AWO6CPRhu6E0J_OP6zE6uQqzO1KKpephrX4ech98dV0XEEmJ-t32O0fn30gujqfv91dhZyTkF4WKfXxvvNhYiRILe7BZ5Nlj2/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+4.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My thread is darker blue so you can see it. Again, this is the wrong side of the garment now:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczPoVcVq_cQ8Nu7NByHLzo8MG5PYJH1ZCpFjboJM6fcBEnnzROBcBGzsdaghqSdAe3k82Z0mvLnHxp2vrZfNlTNK6LTERJM6UMn0kkcIYcKuy4ADZN1ptUTwISvc_K4A9va3AqL21oxV6/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+5.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjczPoVcVq_cQ8Nu7NByHLzo8MG5PYJH1ZCpFjboJM6fcBEnnzROBcBGzsdaghqSdAe3k82Z0mvLnHxp2vrZfNlTNK6LTERJM6UMn0kkcIYcKuy4ADZN1ptUTwISvc_K4A9va3AqL21oxV6/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+5.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDM-kiMvhwerG5MPrxo9boCvfpRfP7AEw-VlijDg2-vpzQ9dioMMEGkIFLj7lndoBSe8X-hgOwXswTpzYg5OonCr6AFscsdG-U2QKPtMF6_FjnbH-AwjlHLMNrrjaj1YICtyq7hcx69hNY/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+6.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDM-kiMvhwerG5MPrxo9boCvfpRfP7AEw-VlijDg2-vpzQ9dioMMEGkIFLj7lndoBSe8X-hgOwXswTpzYg5OonCr6AFscsdG-U2QKPtMF6_FjnbH-AwjlHLMNrrjaj1YICtyq7hcx69hNY/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+6.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">3.</span></b> Fold the edge under once more, the same depth as the first fold. Working from the wrong side of the garment, sew along the line of stitching you created in the last step, folding the hem over as you go. This secures the hem perfectly by catching the top edge in your stitching:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_jEhuSUgQb1bCS-h22Inihyvi880jXMhgHuHJoN0G_8HlbEODai2WL6nuYWE1CHc0VnExEp2DiZx4wEYcvR-l5k0KgHFjefDuT83yVXqSPSZ5pAaugWq7wyLJPaQ2QxLpk5aqQi79kDWC/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_jEhuSUgQb1bCS-h22Inihyvi880jXMhgHuHJoN0G_8HlbEODai2WL6nuYWE1CHc0VnExEp2DiZx4wEYcvR-l5k0KgHFjefDuT83yVXqSPSZ5pAaugWq7wyLJPaQ2QxLpk5aqQi79kDWC/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">You will have a single line of stitching on the right side, and a doubled line of stitching on the wrong side:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EA-BZDfVxM9kpuqnJDlDVp1LVZ_oENJtBEInXFRujVXTo2lrW_thVvCXx6cdLmxesnLlIvwcf3tbJ5sheVsMQVfVsfc3E7L9XFcATq-_U08OUivRLvWZt43tLIjjzXxwW6cVVT-soOMw/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EA-BZDfVxM9kpuqnJDlDVp1LVZ_oENJtBEInXFRujVXTo2lrW_thVvCXx6cdLmxesnLlIvwcf3tbJ5sheVsMQVfVsfc3E7L9XFcATq-_U08OUivRLvWZt43tLIjjzXxwW6cVVT-soOMw/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A classy hem, without any tedious pressing OR measuring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>METHOD TWO: WITH BAN-ROL</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This little trick needs to be wider known. If you dig on the Internet you can find it in other tutorials, but I thought I'd go ahead and share it here to help spread the word. For an even tinier hem (~1/8"), I like to use the aid of <b>Ban-Rol</b>, also sometimes referred to as Ban Roll. wtf is that? It's a very sturdy starched interfacing used by tailors for stiffening waistbands in pant and skirts. It comes in various widths on continuous yardage. It's loosely woven, despite being stiff, so you can peel away the threads to create a "comb" that helps easily turn your fabric for hemming but will be pulled out after stitching.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyet3Ic9geBnwXkdX5CeXA4Ec0wa8PrYOrxojRwIlGfez3SknOXGLP_uMP5x5wbaHsanwZjxbT_zra1yV9w1dhaWLT0xkoufTIg3l5IcvTBC4pWCwYqESgz_ApQvChyphenhyphengjaF7CM1UfutzW/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyet3Ic9geBnwXkdX5CeXA4Ec0wa8PrYOrxojRwIlGfez3SknOXGLP_uMP5x5wbaHsanwZjxbT_zra1yV9w1dhaWLT0xkoufTIg3l5IcvTBC4pWCwYqESgz_ApQvChyphenhyphengjaF7CM1UfutzW/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The great thing about this method is that the Ban-Rol is reusable so you can make one small investment to have a lifetime of beautiful tiny hems. You can find it in 50-yard packs on Amazon and Wawak, but there's no way you would ever need that much. They sell it by the single yard online at the <a href="http://www.thesewingplace.com/BanRol-Smooth-Edge-Waistband-Stabilizer-p/nbr.htm">Sewing Place</a>, <a href="http://www.craftersvision.com/original-ban-rol-waistband-2/">Crafter's Vision</a>, <a href="http://www.londas-sewing.com/shop/product/ban-rol-1/">Londa's Creative Threads</a>, and <a href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/banroll-white-p-276.html?zenid=0a9e595f077f7a4c99addd7d04b138c6">B. Black and Sons</a> (edit: and <a href="http://www.kentontrimmings.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=415">Kenton Trimmings Online</a>, for those in the UK). I'd recommend getting a few yards so you can create different "combs" for different hem widths, or just in case you ever have to hem a maxi-length circle skirt or something cray.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">1. </span></b>Snip into one bound edge in order to get the first vertical thread free. From there, you can start pulling out the threads with your fingers. Keep pulling the single thread until you have a length that matches or slightly exceeds the circumference of your hem:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDQnMdZra6k6aU4AuBeT2I80iEcXwjAsh7hBak4wI1hwh9W9_KAvptrVxw1IsiLIOr6eBxzyE-UlmThl2FsXMBwRnyEMxS6W1CNBZ6prCGUyZWhTAh7OtFmIPkiXByiVkTumyEr8Ilg6W/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.4.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDQnMdZra6k6aU4AuBeT2I80iEcXwjAsh7hBak4wI1hwh9W9_KAvptrVxw1IsiLIOr6eBxzyE-UlmThl2FsXMBwRnyEMxS6W1CNBZ6prCGUyZWhTAh7OtFmIPkiXByiVkTumyEr8Ilg6W/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.4.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qIafw1CiRQJEW7jEKLDlfNjyYwVEYZ2G8Wozmy9sjbWrlkX0YyOL5y3Drhmvba3fph4yUHt4JBijf8BMd3DE1Wo63PlrxYNM30nXLyVP1bPEDVlSX19BNEucdJ5VgDzBMZH7x2BIl2iy/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.5.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3qIafw1CiRQJEW7jEKLDlfNjyYwVEYZ2G8Wozmy9sjbWrlkX0YyOL5y3Drhmvba3fph4yUHt4JBijf8BMd3DE1Wo63PlrxYNM30nXLyVP1bPEDVlSX19BNEucdJ5VgDzBMZH7x2BIl2iy/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.5.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Keep going until you create a "comb" that is the width of the hem you would like to have. So, this would work for super teeny hems and heftier hems:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-svDyoimYmdZiYJ-Ga5O81qi09Jz2lhktPTLWz61uVlChI3CQZ3VQ3iJhzX_UI_a5q9Wf-v7EzR2jYuyIbt9evuDmAe0E0rw_Hm4UqBaF8YLtWa0vO8ajWr26VBMLHTaspSLm9oftTmC/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.6.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-svDyoimYmdZiYJ-Ga5O81qi09Jz2lhktPTLWz61uVlChI3CQZ3VQ3iJhzX_UI_a5q9Wf-v7EzR2jYuyIbt9evuDmAe0E0rw_Hm4UqBaF8YLtWa0vO8ajWr26VBMLHTaspSLm9oftTmC/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.6.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">2.</span></b> Now align the edge of the comb with the RIGHT SIDE of the raw edge of your garment to be hemmed. If your fabric frays madly, move the ban-rol inward slightly to stay clear of the fray. Pin if you want, but I've found that the ban-rol doesn't really shift as long as you align it correctly as you sew.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vmbuFjXY-ZV6hDQ_evz_bTJxG1yy2K5uWjSQ6yhoDzvMAFMK9JzbRjDkZH6IOWuHZyNMuX1pt8YBQMvrFcxnTILeWdNbQps2_7B6wqNfdcrLlrD4GgDFDPsIj7FaijF2ZaIdjbMas3eE/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.7.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vmbuFjXY-ZV6hDQ_evz_bTJxG1yy2K5uWjSQ6yhoDzvMAFMK9JzbRjDkZH6IOWuHZyNMuX1pt8YBQMvrFcxnTILeWdNbQps2_7B6wqNfdcrLlrD4GgDFDPsIj7FaijF2ZaIdjbMas3eE/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.7.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">3. </span></b>Take it to the sewing machine, where you will stitch JUST INSIDE the inner edge of the comb part. You don't want your stitches to catch the still-woven part of the ban-rol. Remember the comb is pulled out of your stitches later, so you should only sew over the horizontal threads:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTh38HHiHlSstxLTXavsRANoH-ZRVPSxh372GxNWkME5B1txtS4U3UFAwDiycQT1UkWzmRko75X3rNmfjajbhSb2QwPy8TW7ZKUvCBNHdDZeHVKKRpHxj4jRzOm8nKHs_UMd9UXLaQ7Ax/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.8.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDTh38HHiHlSstxLTXavsRANoH-ZRVPSxh372GxNWkME5B1txtS4U3UFAwDiycQT1UkWzmRko75X3rNmfjajbhSb2QwPy8TW7ZKUvCBNHdDZeHVKKRpHxj4jRzOm8nKHs_UMd9UXLaQ7Ax/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.8.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1DJSdSgz88XmX5kg4zgNIBsQcq51Exd8NZ9tapAtiWNaGRN9q0fU-16knZqWIe1DvKYqNl9z3_1wbj1NPKaN5G4CjmD85DD6_j5hF5aERa7jIHoyyLCddc3RdxP0Ad-fjRSl5El0262R/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.9.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1DJSdSgz88XmX5kg4zgNIBsQcq51Exd8NZ9tapAtiWNaGRN9q0fU-16knZqWIe1DvKYqNl9z3_1wbj1NPKaN5G4CjmD85DD6_j5hF5aERa7jIHoyyLCddc3RdxP0Ad-fjRSl5El0262R/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+7.9.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">4.</span></b> For fraying fabrics, trim the stray threads off now so they don't poke out of your hem later. Now gently flip the ban-rol all the way over to the wrong side of the fabric. This rolls the tiny hem for you without you having to measure all the way around or burn your fingers with the iron. For complete accuracy, you may want to press this part down so the hem is flattened first.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY_VLQh8ayVYmG2rCJa3dl3cJNfDB7zQMltYeHyRmvhkheunkmkAshFqiQT7LW1IyMMZuzTnw9xp6LbXvj1MfzCMeAUgeCynY0FsksPKmZ60rcWf5Pk72omZLgB1-9NgWDDX8JSTteRZF/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY_VLQh8ayVYmG2rCJa3dl3cJNfDB7zQMltYeHyRmvhkheunkmkAshFqiQT7LW1IyMMZuzTnw9xp6LbXvj1MfzCMeAUgeCynY0FsksPKmZ60rcWf5Pk72omZLgB1-9NgWDDX8JSTteRZF/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">5. </span></b>Stitch along the edge next to the ban-rol to secure the hem.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAFQL4BvREdB3LiUMe4H2m5MyJvc6CmS8r2bwowQYX5KZuRcEutc9_eLhO1mP81uF_SYVAM0mwkuelQoPRsnIgBVktGGtNflZ3QxZLfDuOxCglfdB33J4XCMKzQPC9gQ1GvDaOxHZ6qXu/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAFQL4BvREdB3LiUMe4H2m5MyJvc6CmS8r2bwowQYX5KZuRcEutc9_eLhO1mP81uF_SYVAM0mwkuelQoPRsnIgBVktGGtNflZ3QxZLfDuOxCglfdB33J4XCMKzQPC9gQ1GvDaOxHZ6qXu/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42tZ0c_AHFWuvENyM5LADv8b4tGItuFrrVHiWCXUxnwjH6SyVfZYC6AVMVzeSCNeuAljHie-1_oPTLCn5j4SEtrzstmjIrpKy757C3O0bJgwx3ypcD2hiawq2Rb_4KCWBTjT5VyR17XvJ/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42tZ0c_AHFWuvENyM5LADv8b4tGItuFrrVHiWCXUxnwjH6SyVfZYC6AVMVzeSCNeuAljHie-1_oPTLCn5j4SEtrzstmjIrpKy757C3O0bJgwx3ypcD2hiawq2Rb_4KCWBTjT5VyR17XvJ/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">6. </span></b>Now gently pull the ban-rol comb out of the stitches.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeioQfTHsVPe8un98gCCPpbr7pR7iabqgALCSkr4BJuub-p697QV6iHedIJmZ7AgOAb2d5ish39hxCivEiyyz7x-uZrNpj2zvh5-lG6Hyam6fRX1UNZuowx_rNOMZbC4KvK4mAQhZDoaH/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.2.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeioQfTHsVPe8un98gCCPpbr7pR7iabqgALCSkr4BJuub-p697QV6iHedIJmZ7AgOAb2d5ish39hxCivEiyyz7x-uZrNpj2zvh5-lG6Hyam6fRX1UNZuowx_rNOMZbC4KvK4mAQhZDoaH/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.2.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">~OmG~ what a stable, perfectly minuscule hem you just made. And there's no double stitching to be seen:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMcfholdQ1gU2SDJnYnJbSsAgXgWGbAPtMy7WUhlqQzSH2Ic0U5QRA-vj2d66G5pmZDc4jN3QT7CatM7oIS4Th8xqq_HmjaUfiQYRRoNlwDBuleHAWOl3s_kmlhM5f8ebPJ4U-TostSi0/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.4.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMcfholdQ1gU2SDJnYnJbSsAgXgWGbAPtMy7WUhlqQzSH2Ic0U5QRA-vj2d66G5pmZDc4jN3QT7CatM7oIS4Th8xqq_HmjaUfiQYRRoNlwDBuleHAWOl3s_kmlhM5f8ebPJ4U-TostSi0/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+8.4.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Note that you <b>can</b> use ban-rol when hemming in the round. Just overlap it where the circular hem meets. The comb will pull out as usual.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>METHOD THREE: WITH WASH-AWAY STABILIZER</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I do love the ban-rol method because it creates a very clean and light hem, versus the serged method which may add thread bulk or opacity to your hem. However, ban-rol is not flexible enough to be sewn around tight curves. I have used it on fuller A-line dress hems so it can follow gentle curves, but what if you're trying to hem a rounded placemat or the curved sides of a man's dress shirt? Or something else weird-shaped in a bee print?:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL2Cevnh8ApXCWrITVzeuMeWlWJ37-LcEwpfA86eGrU3jaYAiRe-mWso-ZJVJJ8s-Jf4zWgXMbOsS6kCd4jVMTjWcflEa0GeI99NM_Q0aTPJFGlqEWMM-AOzQkkpZwqy34Ja-IZGTGRYN/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFL2Cevnh8ApXCWrITVzeuMeWlWJ37-LcEwpfA86eGrU3jaYAiRe-mWso-ZJVJJ8s-Jf4zWgXMbOsS6kCd4jVMTjWcflEa0GeI99NM_Q0aTPJFGlqEWMM-AOzQkkpZwqy34Ja-IZGTGRYN/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I agree; those bees are CUTE AS HELL.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This method is similar in theory to the ban-rol method, in that you're sewing something to the right side of the garment and then flipping it over to help turn the hem. EXCEPT you're using something that is wide enough so you can trim it to match the curves exactly. And you can't make a comb out of it to remove later. It's essentially like sewing a facing on a garment edge, but you want the seam to roll farther back toward the wrong side of the garment, and you want the facing to disappear somehow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, you have some options: you can use tracing paper, which you can then tear off the hem, but you'll leave paper in your hem. You can use tear-away stabilizer, which also leaves stabilizer in your hem. Or you can use wash-away stabilizer, which will disappear after the garment's first washing. None of these are ideal, so it just depends on what type of fabric you're working with and what you have on hand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I decided to try this sew-and-turn method with <a href="https://www.sulky.com/stabilizers/fabrisolvy.php">Fabri-Solvy</a>, which is a fabric-like wash-away stabilizer normally used for appliqu</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #545454; line-height: 18.200000762939453px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">é</span></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">s and such. It comes in a range of widths and lengths, so I thought that getting a sheet that's 20-inches wide and 1-yard long would enable me to customize my own strips to match the curves of a small hem.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7aSWb36oR-og9HCvKXiQ_9fVlmeXer2Zy0_BQtd0lfmZt2Me3WFRJl4MjoXZErARlYAUKnjV9E4Y7stakueKWH0jyqK-MMCRjzJQ2rxRS0q03_BnlTS1Ecj72TWQd02KWMNH3jCyPoPQ/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP7aSWb36oR-og9HCvKXiQ_9fVlmeXer2Zy0_BQtd0lfmZt2Me3WFRJl4MjoXZErARlYAUKnjV9E4Y7stakueKWH0jyqK-MMCRjzJQ2rxRS0q03_BnlTS1Ecj72TWQd02KWMNH3jCyPoPQ/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">1.</span></b> Pin the stabilizer on top of the right side of your hem. Trim it to match the raw edge perfectly:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEVgJXeQDE6cikUNaU5moIFzGc_qfjAix8r80V5czvM8n8IY5JTNDSo3BgSkImuqN-c8cyxtmkeNPfzMy2HuFtplMrcTHDTTRJEkm_tjfM-aAKgQV-QVPwuxp5VzwyLXP4gwlHObddU1U/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.2.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEVgJXeQDE6cikUNaU5moIFzGc_qfjAix8r80V5czvM8n8IY5JTNDSo3BgSkImuqN-c8cyxtmkeNPfzMy2HuFtplMrcTHDTTRJEkm_tjfM-aAKgQV-QVPwuxp5VzwyLXP4gwlHObddU1U/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.2.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegCBeM6SQ1SerLNvVS0m2TM3b1_jN-CCK63jwwfFrcwic8O-71__3GmE-Bf2GEscHNt-cTkszcTHWJWuFVLBJlUGg-TWUmM-QdLvSoFZpYqn3xqfVk5UXIo3XjrGRMS1lkxAJmA230iLe/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgegCBeM6SQ1SerLNvVS0m2TM3b1_jN-CCK63jwwfFrcwic8O-71__3GmE-Bf2GEscHNt-cTkszcTHWJWuFVLBJlUGg-TWUmM-QdLvSoFZpYqn3xqfVk5UXIo3XjrGRMS1lkxAJmA230iLe/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">2. </span></b>You can now trim down the rest of the stabilizer to make it easier to handle if desired. Accuracy isn't important here:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEEbUpkAV3_YEpXkEnfNTG2rrT6BQ8c3k-IoZ4GJV8JB-FZy19v5t-1b0MdGgKFjk3sMqVj1Dtg9uHYXmYad2W6GEsZWsZwrrrW9GUWHpeQ1lGoxIZs81T1KZOl2I9szfAeUHcanTIGfk/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.4.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEEbUpkAV3_YEpXkEnfNTG2rrT6BQ8c3k-IoZ4GJV8JB-FZy19v5t-1b0MdGgKFjk3sMqVj1Dtg9uHYXmYad2W6GEsZWsZwrrrW9GUWHpeQ1lGoxIZs81T1KZOl2I9szfAeUHcanTIGfk/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.4.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">3.</span></b> Sew the stabilizer to the fabric at your desired hem width:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTAvHAib-y0d4jhyphenhyphensLWT8HF-jjZfO_39Q1N8XHjhcdwknA95f_dxZSXItziEc2xXqgbNqWovk2cHBNX07La54wxH71o-cPHTbAHBOPxyhG7tLr8SatXeQ3My4LEZdJUUxvo61Mm3Jegqb_/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.5.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTAvHAib-y0d4jhyphenhyphensLWT8HF-jjZfO_39Q1N8XHjhcdwknA95f_dxZSXItziEc2xXqgbNqWovk2cHBNX07La54wxH71o-cPHTbAHBOPxyhG7tLr8SatXeQ3My4LEZdJUUxvo61Mm3Jegqb_/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.5.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nfBiR3Z_n5sSoiraC9W1mwv524twHnJn1ptVS4wB0X6G1rR9_-VGsfYdHTnY5bbbvSFNsYDGBxRHZ_FKOkXQNMzd60pE5hTJPrhtluA7T8Jc6tEpi5BOSJkgZp9mNEX6Jen4b0nlbZFV/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.7.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nfBiR3Z_n5sSoiraC9W1mwv524twHnJn1ptVS4wB0X6G1rR9_-VGsfYdHTnY5bbbvSFNsYDGBxRHZ_FKOkXQNMzd60pE5hTJPrhtluA7T8Jc6tEpi5BOSJkgZp9mNEX6Jen4b0nlbZFV/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.7.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">4. </span></b>Now flip the stabilizer to the wrong side of the garment. This gets a little fiddly because the stabilizer is soft, but you want to make sure the raw edge of your fabric and the stabilizer are butted up against the fold of your hem so it's an even width around. Use your fingers to maneuver the curves into place. You can use the very tip of your iron to help crease the hem, but try not to let the iron touch the exposed stabilizer because it may shrivel and/or start to melt.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAsBIxW4aoh9Jb_47nHrBc_LQ8I_kRMRqnO6VaZ9KRhRLCLsFCoY_p9zE8GbUkdlrCBK8RRFbher_LDFy7kHsVa-5qhNUDXEl7J3UIYOrtiHCmXZBdJb4TPyoNd_EfT9QrakheuT6jaTq/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.8.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAsBIxW4aoh9Jb_47nHrBc_LQ8I_kRMRqnO6VaZ9KRhRLCLsFCoY_p9zE8GbUkdlrCBK8RRFbher_LDFy7kHsVa-5qhNUDXEl7J3UIYOrtiHCmXZBdJb4TPyoNd_EfT9QrakheuT6jaTq/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.8.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">5.</span></b> Sew the hem in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Gpk3nPf5ept5Z11Q_2PlqCQNlF58xZbyNJHXTwwekzvpLOClv9ip5x5IxUhxndwm9Nli7zqFTtgT7DqYh510PAE5UxyKOt2z8z3ckx3KoQRTUE7ReaFzIENshlvS4Q9jmUh5Rq4Y2au6/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.9.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Gpk3nPf5ept5Z11Q_2PlqCQNlF58xZbyNJHXTwwekzvpLOClv9ip5x5IxUhxndwm9Nli7zqFTtgT7DqYh510PAE5UxyKOt2z8z3ckx3KoQRTUE7ReaFzIENshlvS4Q9jmUh5Rq4Y2au6/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.9.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">6. </span></b>Trim away the excess stabilizer. You can leave it as is until its first full washing, or you can saturate the hem in water for a few minutes to dissolve the stabilizer still inside the hem, then let dry.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstUYmRWZbM6vJQVPJXeisMz7_ilZB2DT53gxo5lycG7aZm4FwAA8HWQ4D26ue2-wWw9baF3BxbxxsBRrMOtcpeKoxTHBvlVzjx5yl5XYqOODej0oHArsAt4FsO5eEAczWW63PosBkfmSa/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstUYmRWZbM6vJQVPJXeisMz7_ilZB2DT53gxo5lycG7aZm4FwAA8HWQ4D26ue2-wWw9baF3BxbxxsBRrMOtcpeKoxTHBvlVzjx5yl5XYqOODej0oHArsAt4FsO5eEAczWW63PosBkfmSa/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwdE1XF_lLjkSZ3Nt-QMQKGiNp5x6LldmZKv70qPeD0e4tdHpF2-VNvdpYrwGGCeNpdoiB0wqzx9A68yDaYyhSR9BGCA6GVAvAF5ipMCBeDFi9F3vLu6CgY14N52YJWzJZeiT_chALav9/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwdE1XF_lLjkSZ3Nt-QMQKGiNp5x6LldmZKv70qPeD0e4tdHpF2-VNvdpYrwGGCeNpdoiB0wqzx9A68yDaYyhSR9BGCA6GVAvAF5ipMCBeDFi9F3vLu6CgY14N52YJWzJZeiT_chALav9/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+2.1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This method is pretty effective, but it can't really be used on fabrics that shouldn't be washed. I also felt like I was using my scissors a lot, which would be annoying on a longer hem. It uses more resources in general since the stabilizer is not reusable,and I would have to buy longer sheets for bigger garments. Still a good trick to know, yes?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I hope this post introduced you to some new ways to achieve a nice narrow hem. Do you have any other tricks or tips to add? Are there other kinds of materials that could be used instead of ban-rol or stabilizer to help roll hems? Let me know your favorite methods!</span></div>
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2nfBiR3Z_n5sSoiraC9W1mwv524twHnJn1ptVS4wB0X6G1rR9_-VGsfYdHTnY5bbbvSFNsYDGBxRHZ_FKOkXQNMzd60pE5hTJPrhtluA7T8Jc6tEpi5BOSJkgZp9mNEX6Jen4b0nlbZFV/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+1.7.jpg" --><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-5EPJ5w4WhmE%2FU1wPZBVok6I%2FAAAAAAAAHvs%2FKg3iXTF1Ows%2Fs1600%2FNarrow%2BHem%2BTutorial%2B4.0.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhbC8dISl-q55djM4AVpNiVRlUNrUWDbxjvwgCrRtE61AWO6CPRhu6E0J_OP6zE6uQqzO1KKpephrX4ech98dV0XEEmJ-t32O0fn30gujqfv91dhZyTkF4WKfXxvvNhYiRILe7BZ5Nlj2/s1600/Narrow+Hem+Tutorial+4.0.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-11811250912591402922014-04-21T20:51:00.001-04:002014-04-21T21:02:42.456-04:00spring robin<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrhBQsUCb8Z8leDxEpRfmw-FOUzl7_4FlugC938EDaLQceqz9J6K1YWXXIIQsq8skla6E3NzSLQc6zqsDbctfrME5e632bNOXQTeOLkJo9TSW1Kmn7YsD8KH1Qke5N1pbW0db0Lw5soQL/s1600/Robin+Sweater+4.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrhBQsUCb8Z8leDxEpRfmw-FOUzl7_4FlugC938EDaLQceqz9J6K1YWXXIIQsq8skla6E3NzSLQc6zqsDbctfrME5e632bNOXQTeOLkJo9TSW1Kmn7YsD8KH1Qke5N1pbW0db0Lw5soQL/s1600/Robin+Sweater+4.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is one of those garments that you love to wear despite knowing it is not necessarily that flattering nor well-made. Ha, I act like that's a common thing for other people, too. I dunno, dude, I'm just on a baggy top kick and I don't know what else I want to wear these days. There's something pleasant and comforting about dressing like a frump. Let's call it effortfully effortless, because a lot of effort goes into knitting a baggy sweater you can take a nap in.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oP6GKF6a7rbeoCeuZHzkNrWOZtN5SlKOIye1ftzghSiLS9u520Tys7wt7CvulbPEYsjQl_biDVyzEufj0JDPjsYMsjZtt3bbSnMLR1-5tlz9uQ5X-6ihK_UVot7wN3WgxUsEhyduWcHA/s1600/Robin+Sweater+2.0.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oP6GKF6a7rbeoCeuZHzkNrWOZtN5SlKOIye1ftzghSiLS9u520Tys7wt7CvulbPEYsjQl_biDVyzEufj0JDPjsYMsjZtt3bbSnMLR1-5tlz9uQ5X-6ihK_UVot7wN3WgxUsEhyduWcHA/s1600/Robin+Sweater+2.0.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This little mama is knitted from the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/robin-14">Robin pattern</a> by Josée Paquin. It's a striped raglan-sleeve sweater with a dipped hem, knitted in one piece from the top down. It's purposely slouchy, with VERY LOW armholes for a batwing look. Wait a sec... batwings. I think I understand why she called this the Robin pattern.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjep4WuGOVxAY9u8EKRaSA-XoS7PNjCGMYYg5A0e9XgeX3qzGFqJK0Tlnh3XzpEPM9ZIA9yur_55mpuSSAV_3h5bjF5rzgiV872s8jUuq2CU1FKGXqvqYVU0_fHIGNwU8B4bJdfoSTKrtKL/s1600/Batman+Robin.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjep4WuGOVxAY9u8EKRaSA-XoS7PNjCGMYYg5A0e9XgeX3qzGFqJK0Tlnh3XzpEPM9ZIA9yur_55mpuSSAV_3h5bjF5rzgiV872s8jUuq2CU1FKGXqvqYVU0_fHIGNwU8B4bJdfoSTKrtKL/s1600/Batman+Robin.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Another example of someone wearing something all the time despite it being unflattering.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj064hDn4DwPKYJx_cx1RSdPHDxjPN2fC3-G0eyZ6bRm-_3eMj8g28Mc9LIoED281k9TxD9v8c2lZNRRMiBprrme9yGPHLNZHG7lJCR8E77sKbuJ9F4L-9rGAVJLS8f5dRERsPrbyDq9jyv/s1600/Robin+Sweater+A.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj064hDn4DwPKYJx_cx1RSdPHDxjPN2fC3-G0eyZ6bRm-_3eMj8g28Mc9LIoED281k9TxD9v8c2lZNRRMiBprrme9yGPHLNZHG7lJCR8E77sKbuJ9F4L-9rGAVJLS8f5dRERsPrbyDq9jyv/s1600/Robin+Sweater+A.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I wanted a sweater that I can wear in the transition months between cold and hot weather and vice versa, so I chose to make this pattern using a cotton/modal blend yarn: <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Shine_Sport_Yarn__D5420122.html">Shine Sport</a> from Knit Picks. I have leggings that are cotton/modal and are heavenly to wear, and this yarn is just as delightful. I spent a lot of time just squishing it against my face. I went with the cream and black colorways to keep it classic. I used about 9.5 balls of the cream and 2 balls of black. I eventually realized I couldn't make it all the way through this sweater with so little black, so I shortened the arms to 3/4 length which is fine by me anyway.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZNDa2Oxhsnnoa_bFYxiME8DTQc2Gjqa3CGFRZGw85jaDkhbbsvRuj8X2KPJfvqbBlWiC-PrJqeXdTwdGNvuDiJCnEIldY02EO9PIizse_n7LQEG7zmTPCjHwjM8U_WYMNfBlOhPeGILj/s1600/Robin+Sweater+H.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZNDa2Oxhsnnoa_bFYxiME8DTQc2Gjqa3CGFRZGw85jaDkhbbsvRuj8X2KPJfvqbBlWiC-PrJqeXdTwdGNvuDiJCnEIldY02EO9PIizse_n7LQEG7zmTPCjHwjM8U_WYMNfBlOhPeGILj/s1600/Robin+Sweater+H.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I bought size 3 circular needles specifically to do this project, but my gauge was too loose. Instead of buying MORE needles, I just knitted the smallest size in the pattern and hoped for the best. It ended up being the size I was expecting, sooo I dodged that bullet. The insane thing about knitting garments is that you have no idea if it's going to fit until you've already invested many hours over many days, weeks, or months. At least with top-down garments you can try on as you go, but it's not like I would know how to make mid-knit fitting adjustment calculations anyway. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1I4L41zZGgN4ZxdENhUBgLZLi3U6LV-OWfLaUT1zjWZbCxkh8LJvpbrlWcvyuFrFD_v6nWZmgWJvTwo-T5jEtBrr_PM3BVAMbBkSTlI_eRHR-gc7ZB0w3Zlk1vx2SGsWiM-8-CKfEw18/s1600/Robin+Sweater+Front+Side.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1I4L41zZGgN4ZxdENhUBgLZLi3U6LV-OWfLaUT1zjWZbCxkh8LJvpbrlWcvyuFrFD_v6nWZmgWJvTwo-T5jEtBrr_PM3BVAMbBkSTlI_eRHR-gc7ZB0w3Zlk1vx2SGsWiM-8-CKfEw18/s1600/Robin+Sweater+Front+Side.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It's a cropped-head kinda day, folks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Short rows are used to shape the neckline as well as the high-low hem. The pattern has you do yarn-over short rows, which I found I prefer over wrap-and-turn short rows because it's easier to find them when you pass over them again. I don't know if these things have technical names! For help with the YO short rows, I used <a href="http://cocoknits.com/resources/tutorials/short-rows/">this resource.</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuJnH4YTfQ6ScJVkiKlT-7lCpQPa_BBkPLc4ON8CfKH35xbzaOyTW-qmnbrjwyK4dpxCQBl__ufRpr1O2hqUiLEDBclocmhRr4aQUWUMpaI9oKrH4BTk_cwY_MvxyOOtfIVyomA7H8Mfy/s1600/Robin+Sweater+G.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuJnH4YTfQ6ScJVkiKlT-7lCpQPa_BBkPLc4ON8CfKH35xbzaOyTW-qmnbrjwyK4dpxCQBl__ufRpr1O2hqUiLEDBclocmhRr4aQUWUMpaI9oKrH4BTk_cwY_MvxyOOtfIVyomA7H8Mfy/s1600/Robin+Sweater+G.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I don't know what happened with my tension while knitting... or maybe it happened while weaving in all the ends (which I always half-ass) or blocking (I dried it in the dryer!)... but my stripes are a bit wonky. You can tell in some of the photos where they look jagged. Some of the white stitches above and below the stripes were looser than others, causing the black to dip or raise in random places. In one or two places, a black stitch just disappeared. Ran for its wee little life.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHi7SEO1NRmJs9gXgFr3eQf24foL_TBSLSRhvCOcejswBwODaJSfePGsPa0s4f8WKT5UMF3qrLhRA5XVgEqg6e1N5Wsy3kzdFyqs0b4LhdD5UfPbeF2DU5ZyglD_jCbP5EI3VeqWGDFhE/s1600/Robin+Sweater+B.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHi7SEO1NRmJs9gXgFr3eQf24foL_TBSLSRhvCOcejswBwODaJSfePGsPa0s4f8WKT5UMF3qrLhRA5XVgEqg6e1N5Wsy3kzdFyqs0b4LhdD5UfPbeF2DU5ZyglD_jCbP5EI3VeqWGDFhE/s1600/Robin+Sweater+B.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm still a rookie, okay?! I'm not that upset. I should just probably stop switching between English and continental style knitting so often, but I get hand cramps if I don't keep it varied. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">All in all, this was a fun and relatively simple knit. I love the colors I used and find it cozy as hell to wear. As a seamstress, I appreciate that the stripes automatically match across the body to the sleeves. It's the little things.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3mwsgwfOpqvKZrcHBGJjOp-x1456LMWzI0LnqRIMyNdSWXmuOZqI0mFIX5JTRA6xoqM1yE1-myy3_MmllJ7GsRoXIrL_Z2Ldd5V2EnvnMeo78cQN6hafM4Lok9R15o0tG3KtezEndkjT/s1600/Robin+Sweater+E.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3mwsgwfOpqvKZrcHBGJjOp-x1456LMWzI0LnqRIMyNdSWXmuOZqI0mFIX5JTRA6xoqM1yE1-myy3_MmllJ7GsRoXIrL_Z2Ldd5V2EnvnMeo78cQN6hafM4Lok9R15o0tG3KtezEndkjT/s1600/Robin+Sweater+E.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I doubt I'd make it again (do people knit sweater patterns more than once?), but if I did I would raise the armholes by a lot and streamline the fit if possible. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Ravelry notes <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/foursquarewalls/robin">here</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I guess I've accomplished two of my six <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/03/spring-sewing-plan.html">handmade "goals" this spring</a>: I made <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/04/portside-duffel-bag.html">a bag</a> and now a spring-appropriate sweater. I still plan to tackle the others, except maybe the shorts, but I keep being lured in other directions. I'm less confident about <a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/me-made-may14-sign-up-here.html">Me-Made-May</a> this year. I've been wearing fewer me-mades recently because I no longer work in an office (uh, hallelujah), so all the business-casual dresses and skirts I've made over the past 2+ years are starting to collect dust. More baggy tops to make, I guess. Who's with me there?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvPBPajbozCuevxbPmpJXJmko1YQNq2pwqWKKv48EoZBWCS1POxE5Zr0RpSzqpkB51Bz-hewR0UPtU9hKvnBl687uTwIl9WZOzn6iqBFRyK9VQnQzotZkwZrEYv0tmndwGyLR50JJVyOr/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+F.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvPBPajbozCuevxbPmpJXJmko1YQNq2pwqWKKv48EoZBWCS1POxE5Zr0RpSzqpkB51Bz-hewR0UPtU9hKvnBl687uTwIl9WZOzn6iqBFRyK9VQnQzotZkwZrEYv0tmndwGyLR50JJVyOr/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+F.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Duffle bag or duffel bag? I think they're interchangeable but I've always used the -el version. Neither spelling is recognized by this spell check anyway. No, Blogger, I don't mean "ruffle" and I certainly don't mean "luffed." WHAT IS LUFFED?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo73vnG4mctwc4eqa-dGCKrlPt4xYHrYZzbubjdbQL_BEGF6-owuIfL_h9e2chhL4oTfKe1Drxklx4mTbh2NR8QNdOlGJmhZIGIsfxbGFUfm5yCMG7N3UPDPbcY5S8-AN1w1oQVTpCJgXQ/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+B.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo73vnG4mctwc4eqa-dGCKrlPt4xYHrYZzbubjdbQL_BEGF6-owuIfL_h9e2chhL4oTfKe1Drxklx4mTbh2NR8QNdOlGJmhZIGIsfxbGFUfm5yCMG7N3UPDPbcY5S8-AN1w1oQVTpCJgXQ/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+B.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It's probably not normal for a person to love a duffel bag as much as I love this one. I don't <i>love</i> much of what I make, I admit. Sure, there are handmade garments that I like because they're comfortable or flattering. But LOVE? I usually reserve that for family, my boyfriend, dogs, and French fries only. And now this bag. I kept complimenting its beauty (aloud, yes) while photographing it. Truly creepy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ3GjorMfIFLK7sOHMbiPmu2J-0nYhqWa0MOLKFkynQvBkjBwPqpiztq8HEOcUgXGyBoZentsZetAUg-3s4Nf3KGWIeZvebBYn6Pz3a2cpZW64gpW5uGnUOaHWks_JJ2ax1agJauDkWbNr/s1600/Grainline+Studio+Portside+Travel.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ3GjorMfIFLK7sOHMbiPmu2J-0nYhqWa0MOLKFkynQvBkjBwPqpiztq8HEOcUgXGyBoZentsZetAUg-3s4Nf3KGWIeZvebBYn6Pz3a2cpZW64gpW5uGnUOaHWks_JJ2ax1agJauDkWbNr/s1600/Grainline+Studio+Portside+Travel.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The pattern is the duffel bag from <a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/10/31/portside-travel-set/">Grainline Studio's Portside Travel Set</a>, released in October 2013. It's a roomy bag (20" x 11.5" x 12") designed with a zip top, handles and a detachable shoulder strap made from webbing, two exterior pockets, and a full lining (hooray!). It's been on the back of my mind for awhile, but the only trips I've taken since its release have either required a monster suitcase or a tiny overnight bag -- which is the only luggage I've owned since moving to Phila. I'm taking a last-minute trip to Louisville this weekend and staying three nights, and I started wondering what I was going to use to pack for that length of trip. Ohhh right, Jen B's got my back as always. The whole set includes the duffel, a dopp kit for toiletries, and a zipped pouch for other small travel necessities. I didn't make the little guys but you bet I'm saving the pattern pieces.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyjoZrYIzURTUHyr_EE31BJsPD4ADWWiRJ4MCsJCveSgOXvuaat64pkcah2Du18AVV1CTjKviltaIPKqlhg_STWqDhyphenhyphenDXJD2ltHbYOi6ADALC9VX_fj_PBlGyDSdvRuMhIYO2sbKOBbFF/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+C.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyjoZrYIzURTUHyr_EE31BJsPD4ADWWiRJ4MCsJCveSgOXvuaat64pkcah2Du18AVV1CTjKviltaIPKqlhg_STWqDhyphenhyphenDXJD2ltHbYOi6ADALC9VX_fj_PBlGyDSdvRuMhIYO2sbKOBbFF/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+C.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The fabrics and notions I used are all from my stash because I was in a hurry to make this and I'm broke as a joke. I ain't mad about a little neutral-mixing, though. The contrast is made from wool coating that I never got around to using for a garment this past winter despite my obsession with it. It's a navy/black mix with gray plaid. I cut the side panels on the bias so I wouldn't have to match the plaids horizontally over the curve, ha. The bias-cut pieces are also interfaced to prevent stretching and drooping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The self/bottom fabric is... can I say "vegan leather" so it sounds classier? It's cloth-backed home decor vinyl that I got for 99 cents at Jomar in Philly. It was easier to work with than I expected despite its bulk. Some basic tips for sewing with vinyl can be found <a href="https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/how-to-sew-vinyl-faux-leather-and-oilcloth/">here</a>, which covers what I did, though I admit I used a low-heat iron on the cloth side of the vinyl to try (and mostly fail) to remove its wrinkles. Nothing melted. The only problem I had with the vinyl was uneven stitch length on the topstitching because it would randomly start to drag. The bag is large, too, so it would often get crammed against the wall behind my machine and the fabric would stall. Can't fix topstitching in vinyl, though, so I'm living with it!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xuCI8Ipdjm45I-AH2oBjP-IEdmpAWa4DVTexbQksw0-P_g798BT0LSGyAEvxSnsFiW_v_k_stmF2dSstXHJ5g9lyXL2MF8CoXPaewcR2VaG6aOLCQeuI12g_CH7JI1ZoSWPrOcPVHjyQ/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+H.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5xuCI8Ipdjm45I-AH2oBjP-IEdmpAWa4DVTexbQksw0-P_g798BT0LSGyAEvxSnsFiW_v_k_stmF2dSstXHJ5g9lyXL2MF8CoXPaewcR2VaG6aOLCQeuI12g_CH7JI1ZoSWPrOcPVHjyQ/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+H.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I lined it in bright red fabric -- cut from an old Target curtain that didn't fit our windows. I could have used some beige linen in my stash but I wanted to make the piece somewhat more exciting since it's handmade and all. And you know I can't resist pairing red with black. Since I was using this pleather stuff, I also had to line the outside pockets because the back of it is so unsightly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRj0Ihvma3J4dNAI_EHnLOZQlkUJVunpnnsjrBRvA04vNLM3xfVTPcPTdTbanuGf5KCOj6UNP8dpoCMeVevqT7qw2dMiY5D_VYhMjRsG5k1QF4NEr9n8pGZqkOZbVRASX3PDOFbTgqHtpC/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+D.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRj0Ihvma3J4dNAI_EHnLOZQlkUJVunpnnsjrBRvA04vNLM3xfVTPcPTdTbanuGf5KCOj6UNP8dpoCMeVevqT7qw2dMiY5D_VYhMjRsG5k1QF4NEr9n8pGZqkOZbVRASX3PDOFbTgqHtpC/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+D.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As far as construction goes, this bag is a pretty straightforward sew. I finished it from first cut to final slip stitch in less than 5 hours, which included the extra step of making my own double-topstitched straps instead of using webbing. I didn't have the hardware or patience to make a shoulder strap, but I made the handles long enough to be shoulder-slingable as is. Because you can't pin vinyl (it leaves permanent holes), I used <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Wonder-Tape-1-4-x10-Yards/dp/B001IKEOE4">Wonder Tape</a> to secure the straps to the bag before sewing them on. It's basically just narrow double-sided tape that dissolves in water. Good for positioning zippers and pockets and such, too.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVStjC0Tq8TRMe9tHC54P6oz1Bp4J5kkAnesFF1tcZVNDwNxswq-TAtuyXlMQNfhRiTxdaTjV8f_Lv_zEkAzTgUdOx4DlN0DOMq7Mxmylkl_BIuwnRo0IngioZdCJ4QWhxAAd3fmAk3QlC/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+E.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVStjC0Tq8TRMe9tHC54P6oz1Bp4J5kkAnesFF1tcZVNDwNxswq-TAtuyXlMQNfhRiTxdaTjV8f_Lv_zEkAzTgUdOx4DlN0DOMq7Mxmylkl_BIuwnRo0IngioZdCJ4QWhxAAd3fmAk3QlC/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+E.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To give a better sense of its size, here is Corey wearing it. Don't be fooled -- this bag is for me, not him, though the fabric choices are decidedly unisex. He thought this bag was store-bought until I started getting it plumped up for its glamourous photoshoot. Natch he's requested his own now.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyl_Nf14_ESGLif9ylW0Okol3lT2ZQp7P_s-0RbC_NMF0VIs3BMrBkU9GUuwtEml-fK8wzKOFtmjtr2LXYZj28jtzbc6IkDofdh4QoTmnkl5ucCMYodRzq4xbR3896HuNx9TNod8aQ8QuS/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+J.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyl_Nf14_ESGLif9ylW0Okol3lT2ZQp7P_s-0RbC_NMF0VIs3BMrBkU9GUuwtEml-fK8wzKOFtmjtr2LXYZj28jtzbc6IkDofdh4QoTmnkl5ucCMYodRzq4xbR3896HuNx9TNod8aQ8QuS/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+J.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Portside Duffel is larger than most other travel bag patterns I've come across, which was perfect for what I needed. In the first set of Corey-less photos of this post, the bag is stuffed with two throw pillows and about five or six pieces of multi-yard fabric. It's droopy without anything in it but I made sure the seams were sturdy enough to hold weight once full. I haven't packed my belongings for realzies in it yet, but I expect it will hold everything I need for a four day trip, especially now that it's warmer and I don't need to bring thick sweaters and boots.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDD61pXAM0iwrqNkH-BdDORW0tV9HzIngA6o6MXmEgtCMFCSeKvQF0GmX1OsbVfjzTh0uFKjnyXcXnCeUxuAzhLAqO9OTir2o6NkWV9cs-hW9t4wUP-hNlsRll-bmDvoj_KD9ueKOIgdYA/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+A.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDD61pXAM0iwrqNkH-BdDORW0tV9HzIngA6o6MXmEgtCMFCSeKvQF0GmX1OsbVfjzTh0uFKjnyXcXnCeUxuAzhLAqO9OTir2o6NkWV9cs-hW9t4wUP-hNlsRll-bmDvoj_KD9ueKOIgdYA/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+A.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The denim shirt he's wearing was also made by me a few months ago. For awhile this shirt stood as the best-loved handmade item in this household because honestly it's some of the best detail-sewing I've ever done, but now it's overshadowed (literally, here) by my AWESOME DUFFEL BAG. I love it. I luff it. Most-<i>luffed</i> duff in the world. This post has officially come full-circle. /gush</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Who else is sewing to travel? ...Would you ever trust your handmade luggage in the hands of the airlines? Carry-on only!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><i>P.S. With your help I fixed my pixelated image issue I mentioned in my <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2014/03/out-about.html">last post</a>, at least on my end. Turns out it was a Google+ auto-enhance setting I needed to switch off. However, it seems the photos still don't show up on the Feedly app my iPhone so probably not Bloglovin' either. Really sorry -- I'll keep digging.</i></span></div>
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyl_Nf14_ESGLif9ylW0Okol3lT2ZQp7P_s-0RbC_NMF0VIs3BMrBkU9GUuwtEml-fK8wzKOFtmjtr2LXYZj28jtzbc6IkDofdh4QoTmnkl5ucCMYodRzq4xbR3896HuNx9TNod8aQ8QuS/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+J.jpg" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyl_Nf14_ESGLif9ylW0Okol3lT2ZQp7P_s-0RbC_NMF0VIs3BMrBkU9GUuwtEml-fK8wzKOFtmjtr2LXYZj28jtzbc6IkDofdh4QoTmnkl5ucCMYodRzq4xbR3896HuNx9TNod8aQ8QuS/s1600/Portside+Duffel+Bag+J.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-3455121826160189182014-03-24T09:00:00.000-04:002014-03-24T09:00:05.830-04:00out & about<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJrmSZq_rx4ui2UStpVXC0TQNVUA0eVfhsEtdALCnuU8oxZXcVW2cPdghX69r9kXlDbs378P9YO9iTlfxlmeonLZzF16gjdowFagajQcbY_neD0rO3kyapAj9Fr6kZ6BIMH2mY6ylI6ne/s1600/Out+and+About+A.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJrmSZq_rx4ui2UStpVXC0TQNVUA0eVfhsEtdALCnuU8oxZXcVW2cPdghX69r9kXlDbs378P9YO9iTlfxlmeonLZzF16gjdowFagajQcbY_neD0rO3kyapAj9Fr6kZ6BIMH2mY6ylI6ne/s1600/Out+and+About+A.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Before I get to the meat of this post, let's have a lively discussion about photo files, shall we. For some reason every time I upload a JPG file to my blog, the image turns overly pixelated and blurry. This is a recent development because I used to use JPG files all the time. When I save the same image as a PNG file, it uploads much clearer in Blogger -- just as I see it in my photo editing software. However, PNG photos do not show up when I look at my blog posts in the Feedly app on my phone, nor do they show up when I try to pin them on Pinterest, and they're unable to be saved directly from the page. Has anyone else experienced anything similar -- where PNG files aren't "pinnable", or where JPG files are all screwed up in Blogger? I prefer my photos to look better on my actual blog so I've been using the PNGs but I hate the thought of people not being able to read my full posts on other platforms.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">No one's said anything, but let me know if you've experienced any issues with my fotes not showing up somewhere. If you <b><i>do</i></b> want to pin my blog photos on Pinterest, like to your "Favorite People in the World" board for example, you can just hover over the image and a small red "Pin It" button will appear on the top left.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx9YAMKDSmQtwqW01Re5_5viciyNpwyxFP6oR_zhQ-tzRH3-kCTUMs8Un3gLdHtoAKTxE0lOjLcVxbXu_eooATyoYAl_b7GAMTTjxPOplNRTb9nieC7TflecQMWXZuSqGz_eMIK-o-ENc/s1600/Out+and+About+D.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUx9YAMKDSmQtwqW01Re5_5viciyNpwyxFP6oR_zhQ-tzRH3-kCTUMs8Un3gLdHtoAKTxE0lOjLcVxbXu_eooATyoYAl_b7GAMTTjxPOplNRTb9nieC7TflecQMWXZuSqGz_eMIK-o-ENc/s1600/Out+and+About+D.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Anyway, what are you wearing, little one? A new dress! Made of jersey fabric! Get out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Or should I say, get out & about? The base pattern I used is the recently released <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/2014/02/out-and-about-dress-2.html">Out and About Dress by Sew Caroline</a>, one of my fellow Project Sewn Season 1 contestants who just launched her own PDF pattern company and is also now a <a href="http://www.liveartgalleryfabrics.com/gleeful.html">fabric designer</a> and an <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/2013/10/sew-a-skirt-ebook-release.html">e-book writer</a> and probably a million other things I wish for my sewing self. Geez, some people and their ambitious entrepreneurship. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17SNKNhUHE62cXoZRcte2U6VGyDDK3cGhbgr6bkqcd-kllH44dckcpoD1Bsufhu8AhloTOMdUKpBgTN0CGzLptiNGpdbqTwWz_RxBAVDVV72OvQmALGGHgQ574q81wtPnJUjobYgUMre8/s1600/Out+and+About+Dress+Sew+Caroline.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17SNKNhUHE62cXoZRcte2U6VGyDDK3cGhbgr6bkqcd-kllH44dckcpoD1Bsufhu8AhloTOMdUKpBgTN0CGzLptiNGpdbqTwWz_RxBAVDVV72OvQmALGGHgQ574q81wtPnJUjobYgUMre8/s1600/Out+and+About+Dress+Sew+Caroline.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And their lush green surroundings. If I took photos of myself walking around my neighborhood I would be kicking through piles of Fritos bags and Honey Bun wrappers. Philly's nasty <3</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/2014/02/out-and-about-dress-2.html">Out and About</a> is a basic knit dress with a scoop neck, cuffed sleeves and a gathered skirt that's either knee-length or maxi length. A modest dress for casual everyday wear. If you're new to sewing in general or new to knits, this could be a good place to start because it's a fast sew with a forgiving fit. Caroline's instructions are really thorough with color photographs of each step. She even recommends hemming the sleeves and skirt using Lite E-Z Steam, which helps stabilize the fabric so it doesn't get wavy and stretched out while topstitching the hem. Smart cookie.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQegxGC7AH04GNCzpotCehNkIOAIsd4Uqel0CjBiPUtggNFuHKAU77hRXXof2eZ8cqxdOk72-UClfHLA9vKvnYUzuFRX4dICZ89zMksw0Uf9MHBkVWWaarSjIgU__nPo7loVwoXz_tY6T/s1600/Out+and+About+F.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQegxGC7AH04GNCzpotCehNkIOAIsd4Uqel0CjBiPUtggNFuHKAU77hRXXof2eZ8cqxdOk72-UClfHLA9vKvnYUzuFRX4dICZ89zMksw0Uf9MHBkVWWaarSjIgU__nPo7loVwoXz_tY6T/s1600/Out+and+About+F.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I've already made <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/renfrew-top/">Renfrew</a> dresses and <a href="http://kitschycoo.bigcartel.com/product/the-lady-skater-sewing-pattern-for-teens-and-women">Lady Skaters</a> (unblogged, yikes) so I didn't really want another knit dress with elbow-length set-in sleeves. So I went WILD with this one and extended the shoulder line to make little kimono sleeves instead. I actually meant to make it have more ease in the bodice so I cut the size Medium when I otherwise would have cut the Small, but it's still pretty fitted. The sleeves are hemmed with my coverstitch and not a band.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_oXHd6S2o3Of6grPnQzcDxig6d7tU9VXJRdPHZ0Sbk8PCE4zC4xDAPLusNBToOYg56-v3I0GWyZX9iBTDBM1EOiPsA-T864bERXNfxFlQmfeSgkIf2jsquJtxr4x_u1_EDYknsMra8Ul/s1600/Out+%2526+About+C.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_oXHd6S2o3Of6grPnQzcDxig6d7tU9VXJRdPHZ0Sbk8PCE4zC4xDAPLusNBToOYg56-v3I0GWyZX9iBTDBM1EOiPsA-T864bERXNfxFlQmfeSgkIf2jsquJtxr4x_u1_EDYknsMra8Ul/s1600/Out+%2526+About+C.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I also decided to do "color blocking" and make the bodice in leftover black jersey and the skirt in a print. Ooh she bad. For some reason I've never mixed fabrics in one pattern like this before, I guess because I normally don't have anything in my stash that coordinates. It also means I have enough leftover of the print jersey to make a t-shirt or something, which I'm happy about because this fabric is freaking heavenly to wear. It's a rayon jersey with 5% spandex so it's bouncy, drapey and opaque without being heavy. Normally I don't like gathered skirts that sit at the waist because of the bulk, but this fabric hangs nicely. It's from a special designer collection at JoAnn's (<a href="http://www.joann.com/mb-jersey-ethnic-black-white-ray-spndx/12954830.html#q=jersey&start=7">here</a>) if you're into it. Yea, one of their so-called "ethnic" fabrics, which always makes me cringe.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt80pHk1meyXj1Hp0FUferv55YpAMAzcM1QBdLTG2BLTx9r175OfFiclaMNHpIDVpoDymhsQdSweQ3KNhA_U10tu9JT7Zn6ML_b7qrn1-9lK-W4bdnCXpdUIT9jwgrTFglxXLJUsLyHxe8/s1600/Out+&+About+D.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt80pHk1meyXj1Hp0FUferv55YpAMAzcM1QBdLTG2BLTx9r175OfFiclaMNHpIDVpoDymhsQdSweQ3KNhA_U10tu9JT7Zn6ML_b7qrn1-9lK-W4bdnCXpdUIT9jwgrTFglxXLJUsLyHxe8/s1600/Out+&+About+D.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My favorite method for gathering fabric for a skirt like this is to sew a zig-zag stitch over a strand of dental floss and then pull. It's faster because there's no need to sew two or three lines of basting stitches, and the dental floss is strong and the fabric glides right over it so there is no risk of threads breaking as you pull and having to start over again. Just be sure you don't accidentally stitch on top of the dental floss at any point because then the fabric won't move at that section.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5SdK3ToaevEbYT_ZSb8CdPGY-nuow8r9FC4dXxGK0rbmRgQPOJ5v6qwhT4CzXjVC1f_EdlvNw-3nmavjtSRcsaaOgD0Joi35g3pFxEYKOkQATdnah5ETcmxIc0Zfrh1-zlQ1Cx5u5p-1/s1600/Out+&+About+Gathering.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5SdK3ToaevEbYT_ZSb8CdPGY-nuow8r9FC4dXxGK0rbmRgQPOJ5v6qwhT4CzXjVC1f_EdlvNw-3nmavjtSRcsaaOgD0Joi35g3pFxEYKOkQATdnah5ETcmxIc0Zfrh1-zlQ1Cx5u5p-1/s1600/Out+&+About+Gathering.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I left the dental floss in while attaching the bodice to the gathered skirt by sewing directly below the strand and then simply pulling it out afterward.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEXBApKD6Dm2xCjTWHgOoaS30q02a8ohgPIhKHmZ9ttg13A3c1VLSxPn-JMthiYgJRk3GKcTyVvKvBjY7h3rK-gsY-q-ze5f3ja7X0UPN7hI9qXh-wLLEr7u1qHAO46F82QZEzLFlqAS5/s1600/Out+&+About+Gathering+2.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEXBApKD6Dm2xCjTWHgOoaS30q02a8ohgPIhKHmZ9ttg13A3c1VLSxPn-JMthiYgJRk3GKcTyVvKvBjY7h3rK-gsY-q-ze5f3ja7X0UPN7hI9qXh-wLLEr7u1qHAO46F82QZEzLFlqAS5/s1600/Out+&+About+Gathering+2.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My only issue, if you could even call it that, with this pattern was that the bodice was drafted to dip down at the sides instead of curve slightly upward like I'm used to seeing. I think I could notice the sides pulling downward on Caroline's black maxi dress, pictured above, so I modified it by changing the direction of the curve so it looked more even once worn. I also decided to add elastic to the waist seam so it wouldn't stretch out over time or droop. Otherwise I am pleased with the drafting of the pattern and happy to support another independent designer entering the market. Keep 'em coming.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPPws0HwK-ZdCgJ2V73GpCBE_WeyU5A_lXbo68UU_1rU2mXe51dQllxBTEVQmT4HRusQxD28UGlCtG40zmsZ0RRZJM1fMO3fst3rbw2zXk7FPJSimJIbLozPoXcnBN_62ivY5NHBF3UHT/s1600/Out+and+About+B.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPPws0HwK-ZdCgJ2V73GpCBE_WeyU5A_lXbo68UU_1rU2mXe51dQllxBTEVQmT4HRusQxD28UGlCtG40zmsZ0RRZJM1fMO3fst3rbw2zXk7FPJSimJIbLozPoXcnBN_62ivY5NHBF3UHT/s1600/Out+and+About+B.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This post is part of the Out & About Dress blog tour hosted by <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/">Sew Caroline</a>. More of this pattern will be popping up in the coming week by the following talented seamsters:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mon, March 24: <a href="http://www.adventuresindressmaking.com/">Adventures in Dressmaking</a> and <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/">Four Square Walls</a> (that's me, you guys)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Tues, March 25: </span><a href="http://www.alidamakes.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Alida Makes</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="http://www.paisleyroots.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Paisley Roots</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Weds, March 26: </span><a href="http://www.leximade.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Lexi Made </a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and </span><a href="http://www.truebias.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">True Bias</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Thurs, March 27: </span><a href="http://www.sewinglikemad.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sewing Like Mad</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="http://www.agoldenafternoon.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A Golden Afternoon</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fri, March 28: </span><a href="http://lladybird.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Lladybird</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> and </span><a href="http://www.houseofpinheiro.blogspot.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">House of Pinheiro</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Now that there are some great options for knit dresses by independent companies out there (<a href="http://kitschycoo.bigcartel.com/product/the-lady-skater-sewing-pattern-for-teens-and-women">Lady Skater</a>, <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/coco.html">Coco</a>, <a href="http://patternanthology.com/products/city-girl-frock-and-top">City Girl Frock</a>, <a href="http://www.victorypatterns.com/products/lola/">Lola</a>, <a href="http://sewcaroline.com/2014/02/out-and-about-dress-2.html">Out & About</a>, any others?), what's your favorite one or which ones would you like to try?</span><br />
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEXBApKD6Dm2xCjTWHgOoaS30q02a8ohgPIhKHmZ9ttg13A3c1VLSxPn-JMthiYgJRk3GKcTyVvKvBjY7h3rK-gsY-q-ze5f3ja7X0UPN7hI9qXh-wLLEr7u1qHAO46F82QZEzLFlqAS5/s1600/Out+&+About+Gathering+2.png" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-60368984240988776692014-03-17T10:16:00.000-04:002014-03-17T23:22:10.637-04:00perfect pattern parcel: dandelion dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4yjWgMCmS-B2zZzkobxBuG4JlkGdKQinojoKgJ-dLcxBQQhx3uaceWQ8kOam_70I8hejxr5fvfvkmVMTvlrVZ1UT-eyCzbPjNU0wsDFFNhkoGnBoWxAgK6ASLhn27RMlOk58H4WZLlLs/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+AA.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4yjWgMCmS-B2zZzkobxBuG4JlkGdKQinojoKgJ-dLcxBQQhx3uaceWQ8kOam_70I8hejxr5fvfvkmVMTvlrVZ1UT-eyCzbPjNU0wsDFFNhkoGnBoWxAgK6ASLhn27RMlOk58H4WZLlLs/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+AA.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bare skin! Watch out now y'all. The earth is finally tilting in my favor after ignoring my pleas for like two full months. Though I prefer cold weather fashion, I will always prefer warm climates even if it means I have to stow away my beloved grandpa cardigans. My heating bill was half my rent last month, so... get lo$t, winter.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYaJl8Yf7oo1vklYB43v1WCamhFs2OQQnIlx9gEszx264YF39zURsRDWnyDSeDEQwDD5IiPgbIx-7PuVO1FTnsA6-mIvYy2cASEqpJD5ujakgik64cza04ZS_rB8z7iwIQqqub2vy_cDOS/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+F.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYaJl8Yf7oo1vklYB43v1WCamhFs2OQQnIlx9gEszx264YF39zURsRDWnyDSeDEQwDD5IiPgbIx-7PuVO1FTnsA6-mIvYy2cASEqpJD5ujakgik64cza04ZS_rB8z7iwIQqqub2vy_cDOS/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+F.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here's a cool little number. I'm participating in the blog tour to help promote the newly launched <a href="https://patternparcel.com/">Perfect Pattern Parcel</a>, which is a way to purchase a bundle of five PDF patterns by independent designers -- naming your own price! -- with part of the proceeds going to charity. It's headed up by Jill of <a href="http://thatmoxiegirl.blogspot.com/">Made with Moxie</a> and Rachael of <a href="http://imaginegnats.com/">Imagine Gnats</a>. Cool idea, right? The first parcel includes five women's patterns, most of which you probably recognize:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://kitschycoo.bigcartel.com/product/the-lady-skater-sewing-pattern-for-teens-and-women">Lady Skater Dress</a> by Kitschy Coo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://seamsterpatterns.com/product/dandelion_dress_top_1401/">Dandelion Top/Dress</a> by Seamster Patterns</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://dixiediy.bigcartel.com/product/summer-concert-tee">Summer Concert Tee</a> by Dixie DIY</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.victorypatterns.com/products/ava/">Ava Dress</a> by Victory Patterns</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.sewsweetness.com/2013/02/accordion-bag.html">Accordion Bag</a> by Sew Sweetness</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The charity supported by this parcel is <a href="http://www.donorschoose.org/">Donor's Choose</a>, a non-profit that matches the needs of teachers and their students for specific projects with willing donors. The funds raised from each Pattern Parcel sale will support these efforts to minimize educational inequality and expand the resources available for children K-12 to receive a quality education. </span></div>
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<a href="http://patternparcel.com/"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEgEi0rwWELBPLUSA-ojuOLnEG_sFHp0AthIvE7u_r43YVWS59LrnHnM88AzmFFm6mBNRz2OO84CIbooGhuOgh7lnNM6OL92rCp9j_FUxf0j5pqEStJ0ouknVjGsTNUWMmQY0vxnDzi_5XMoWNYQVw7C78bwiH2D9mOLcSXmA4lCOVCuVfDtvfc" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">THE PATTERN:</span></b> After much waffling about what to sew first, I decided to use this opportunity to try out a new-to-me pattern company, <a href="http://seamsterpatterns.com/">Seamster Patterns</a> (formerly known as Disparate Disciplines). I knew they existed but I hadn't researched their patterns fully. The <a href="http://seamsterpatterns.com/product/dandelion_dress_top_1401/">Dandelion Dress</a> is a semi-fitted top or shift dress with a few combinations of necklines and sleeve options. I don't normally scramble to buy shift dress patterns because they're hard to fit on my body, but the unique construction and seaming of the Dandelion caught my attention. I've never seen anything like it. Here's the side, with the front on the left:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRym-DSAdyLDrim4mbBzeOoDjVu0DiDUrR2nBcWMN5KUsN8RFO4CVSgb4AAhH7Pn2BiFsdErGs8A-aWt2Ihjd0_dEpEm2D1ImyyK-XbUotd2T0epWnkUca74CbQWnrUkJg2MjzzGErTKtE/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+E.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRym-DSAdyLDrim4mbBzeOoDjVu0DiDUrR2nBcWMN5KUsN8RFO4CVSgb4AAhH7Pn2BiFsdErGs8A-aWt2Ihjd0_dEpEm2D1ImyyK-XbUotd2T0epWnkUca74CbQWnrUkJg2MjzzGErTKtE/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+E.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I chose to make the scoop neck raglan sleeve dress. The pattern pieces look crazy and I often had no idea what parts of the garment I was even sewing together, but suddenly I noticed I had made a dress. Here's what one step of the construction looks like:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovRoNp2R4vNQt5sNwaa6LknPnch_pLQPJIke7Jxtp5kfgnzl2UEKJGBmg8Wigws1dAkyyWjlZqPiHcdhP60NPyIlT5fyY7WVLX4K71HN99kQDIgWw2I9GxuCWdSi2WYLWXuXJeHgpXiVQ/s1600/Dandelion+Pieces.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjovRoNp2R4vNQt5sNwaa6LknPnch_pLQPJIke7Jxtp5kfgnzl2UEKJGBmg8Wigws1dAkyyWjlZqPiHcdhP60NPyIlT5fyY7WVLX4K71HN99kQDIgWw2I9GxuCWdSi2WYLWXuXJeHgpXiVQ/s1600/Dandelion+Pieces.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It was fun to make something that was actually pretty simple but used a unique construction process. Sometimes you just get bored sewing plain ole side seams, yaknowwhatImean. The Dandelion is easy enough to follow and comes together surprisingly quickly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizzS7hEh6PpHQK7liA7GbmoruC8UwkWl8niJhM6fvPSC0XuyYbcbDZ09o8mzvgAEEfVqkZfGNBgY-dHqoFcjhU18qYh5aZTEtzISsPbOV84F0UXTu43vJHW6zGUFDmtge-IKUjWDDJhDFB/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+D.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizzS7hEh6PpHQK7liA7GbmoruC8UwkWl8niJhM6fvPSC0XuyYbcbDZ09o8mzvgAEEfVqkZfGNBgY-dHqoFcjhU18qYh5aZTEtzISsPbOV84F0UXTu43vJHW6zGUFDmtge-IKUjWDDJhDFB/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+D.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">FIT:</span></b> I did have an... interesting time with fit. As expected with a shift dress, there was a swayback issue on my muslin. Big time. There was also excess fabric in the front, which I believe is how the pattern is drafted -- they advertise it as a dress you can move and eat comfortably in. My muslin was made of stiff quilting cotton and I looked preggo in it when I slouched. To adjust, I had to fold out two vertical inches of the back pattern pieces at the lower back and somehow grade it out to nothing at the sides (where are the sides?!). I kept muttering "This is going to be a disaster" as I was altering the pattern pieces, because a 2" swayback adjustment seemed outrageous and undoable, especially on unconventional pattern pieces like these. I also folded out 1" from the waistline at the front. Miraculously, though, it worked well enough. The dress now hangs properly and doesn't have a hurricane of fabric swirling over my ass. It's still a comfy fit though, as it's intended. This is the size S, by the way.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMfc-RCBLrYN0baYMUvaBF1TT9C8BkSCCmTF7XIQXOeR8EdGl1g-EE5EYhD7QM2ljFCTv_8WbuN0adqf0KjvldwhHZGIo9J6jJd4odoWD85wrHgtF7Bymg8o1cdMyTxK7yaX2tJyIxPE6/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+C.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMfc-RCBLrYN0baYMUvaBF1TT9C8BkSCCmTF7XIQXOeR8EdGl1g-EE5EYhD7QM2ljFCTv_8WbuN0adqf0KjvldwhHZGIo9J6jJd4odoWD85wrHgtF7Bymg8o1cdMyTxK7yaX2tJyIxPE6/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+C.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">CHANGES </span></b>(besides shortening it too much, duh): I used a knit fabric because it was the only workable fabric in my stash for this pattern. Plus I wanted to use something solid so you could actually see the seaming. I seem to own a TON of chiffon (why, oh god) and a TON of wool, but not much in between. Brilliant. I like the texture of this fabric, I think. It's a stable knit that was easy to sew, but it's kinda bulky at all those darts and seam intersections. Because of the darts, you can't really make this pattern as is on a serger alone.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To accommodate the knit fabric, I eliminated the back zipper and finished the neckline with a band instead of a facing. I attached the neckband flat before sewing the center back seam together so I didn't have to calculate the circumference. I hemmed the sleeves and bottom edge on my coverstitch machine. I thought that stupid thing was broken because it was spitting out garbage stitches on lighter weight knits last week, but it sews beautifully on this kind of fabric. Make up your mind, Coverpro.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSUMS-catAE40_Zh_g7ZT6HMwoRPjY7HPMfYa6CKUEKJkg3kNXyocLaTNtAwXBiaCNX92jiLR4om5EXDUmGs7cM3Wtzyws8aU6Itaf1Jalp6ObFTXKCjtDFlY3tfJg5KuwZ0rlU2Vcb69A/s1600/Dandelion+Dress.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSUMS-catAE40_Zh_g7ZT6HMwoRPjY7HPMfYa6CKUEKJkg3kNXyocLaTNtAwXBiaCNX92jiLR4om5EXDUmGs7cM3Wtzyws8aU6Itaf1Jalp6ObFTXKCjtDFlY3tfJg5KuwZ0rlU2Vcb69A/s1600/Dandelion+Dress.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As always I have things to point out about the pattern. Why can't I just say "'Here's a dress. Alright see ya"? I guess I think I'm being helpful to others by yammering on for days. What's wonderful, in theory, about this PDF pattern is that it tells you which pages to print for which variation you're making -- so I didn't have to print out a bunch of sweetheart necklines or tank top yokes if I wasn't going to use them. However, the guideline was wrong and it didn't list enough of the pages I actually needed, which I didn't notice until I had taped everything together so had to go back to the PDF and scroll through each page to figure out what I was missing. I haven't seen other bloggers mention this so maybe my version was weird, or maybe nobody wants to point out pattern mistakes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">These front bust darts drive me crazy. I tried narrowing them, but they are still very prominent and eye-catching on a solid color fabric because the dart points end directly on the apex. I softened the dart points here a bit in my photo editing software so I wouldn't cause you to blush, but in real life they're much more "Hey girl." I also feel like these seam lines and darts together with raglan sleeves and a scoop neck is kind of a strange style combination -- like this dress can't decide if it's a t-shirt dress or something fancier. Styling is key, and I'm not stellar at that because I don't own much jewelry or shoes. The scarf helps I guess. I made it!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRu_N1ebh1s4BuO6WhPJz1kdBeToRnHliisEpC8y0LT7TH2aAkdlAjwJSiTZA3LK_wasoai8A10qBwpKogWz8Kkf_UPXINnRtV4fJvZ-aYBzNkq2MjQ7QKYlxu3xrWy6yhfKsUxsLOYnCL/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+L.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRu_N1ebh1s4BuO6WhPJz1kdBeToRnHliisEpC8y0LT7TH2aAkdlAjwJSiTZA3LK_wasoai8A10qBwpKogWz8Kkf_UPXINnRtV4fJvZ-aYBzNkq2MjQ7QKYlxu3xrWy6yhfKsUxsLOYnCL/s1600/Dandelion+Dress+L.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">PERFECT PATTERN PARCEL:</span></b> There is a deadline to purchase the whole 5-pattern bundle, so you have until March 21, 2014 to do so, which you can do <a href="https://patternparcel.com/">here</a>. They're hosting a huge giveaway of fabric shop gift certificates, too, so <a href="https://www.facebook.com/patternparcel/app_228910107186452">head to their Facebook page</a> to get a chance. There are billionz of other bloggers participating in the blog tour posting their own creations from the available bundle of patterns. Some of my favorite garments so far are: <a href="http://www.truebias.com/2014/03/perfect-pattern-parcel-shibori-dyed.html">True Bias</a>, <a href="http://imaginegnats.com/boat-neck-tutorial-lady-skater/">Adirondack Inspired</a>, and <a href="http://www.crafterhoursblog.com/2014/03/ava-dress-part-perfect-pattern-parcel.html">Crafterhours</a>.</span></div>
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<a href="http://patternparcel.com/"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEh62dEdHNRDi-3Xoor55WBVzLWkduhJqu1Gkjs3kJdQnPVDJVY-ao00obvZXSdsv9w57rfcwuVZsQmsDVoYfhHjExShaxRQgn3jjXwuje_73gotqrvQYev6J90LGgq___WKXtn-Wh_RGGaBSKprqQbfqgrUmYyIPlLYSl3BoK-KMA-pPZurk97EwDIty88" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">IN CONCLUSION:</span></b> Here's a dress. Alright, see ya. Oh, and buy the PPP.</span></div>
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walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-45380637830814957122014-03-13T15:52:00.000-04:002014-03-13T15:52:09.926-04:00rosa flora<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">What's the worst thing that can happen if you try to sew at the same time as you're cooking dinner? Alright, maybe not <i>worst</i>, because that would be like catching your WIP on fire or dropping pins in your soup without realizing it until it's too late.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQepaeYydCf17w3blEeHAHLRJiue_QhWzbR85axuHMEP5bzQcTX7v1WpgjW5ot6wxbJGdPkpVQnuITm6ianelT1ixphu1XKvj2gic9LM10n7chPv4GjZ-37y6GFW2bweHE302OItp4LZf/s1600/Flora+F.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQepaeYydCf17w3blEeHAHLRJiue_QhWzbR85axuHMEP5bzQcTX7v1WpgjW5ot6wxbJGdPkpVQnuITm6ianelT1ixphu1XKvj2gic9LM10n7chPv4GjZ-37y6GFW2bweHE302OItp4LZf/s1600/Flora+F.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here's the answer I'm looking for because it's what happened to me: Forget to wash your hands after a particularly involved cook-prep task and then notice that olive oil has rubbed all over various areas of the solid plum SILK POPLIN dress you just hemmed and it won't come out despite all your eHow stain removal research and you're supposed to photograph your dress for your blog ASAP because it's the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/flora-dress">Flora Dress</a> you pattern-tested for <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/">By Hand London</a> and they already announced the pattern and all the other beautiful pattern testers have dutifully blogged about theirs but you're just a dirty oil-handed slacker who practically ruined your dress during its final stage of hemming.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIob1aoECUzShAAwEbDTB-TuPM_7nTK4FLF699ex6LTWQV28lf4Tz9uHcGKgj5TH9xij-2ZDH1Wl_O_6_aL36hEMjUl_5P7flA4emm4ULXq5HcxAWMQuYEbV2_p-xqrhG7ukWKQAcAwrZ/s1600/Flora+H.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVIob1aoECUzShAAwEbDTB-TuPM_7nTK4FLF699ex6LTWQV28lf4Tz9uHcGKgj5TH9xij-2ZDH1Wl_O_6_aL36hEMjUl_5P7flA4emm4ULXq5HcxAWMQuYEbV2_p-xqrhG7ukWKQAcAwrZ/s1600/Flora+H.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">While Ms. Silk Flora gets sent to the dry cleaner in a future life, I decided to make another one to show y'all. This is Ms. Cotton Flora. She took me a third the amount of time due to muscle memory, yet I like her three times as much and not just because she's machine washable and properly obeys the steam of an iron like a garment should. She's just CUTE. This print is not something I would normally use whatsoever, but this one grabbed me for some reason. It's a quilting cotton (no judgey, please) by Juliana Horner found at JoAnn's (<a href="http://www.joann.com/juliana-horner-quilt-fabric-rosebed-pomegranate/12519419.html">here for now</a>). Roses! I've never owned a rose-print garment, much less a real bouquet of roses, in my life. What did my boyfriend buy me for Valentine's Day? An extra-large order of fries from Checker's and a six-pack of beer, thank you very much. The only joke there is when I said my boyfriend actually "bought me something." ...We split the cost.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrKy3Vx0FVhX-c7QHy56SDlWm6gRnHfPpTWeVVSRlZ875VpVx5Nblj8XOkSukoTD6riaNHoA1CDD7-acZGv1xVnBn7WUtUUD1tdJSvrWDkCDu5w2J6fAGC0bqIQLC6W-EovWWReK1od_O/s1600/BHL+Flora+Dress.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrKy3Vx0FVhX-c7QHy56SDlWm6gRnHfPpTWeVVSRlZ875VpVx5Nblj8XOkSukoTD6riaNHoA1CDD7-acZGv1xVnBn7WUtUUD1tdJSvrWDkCDu5w2J6fAGC0bqIQLC6W-EovWWReK1od_O/s1600/BHL+Flora+Dress.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">THE PATTERN:</span></b> The <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/flora-dress">Flora Dress </a>is the newest pattern release from By Hand London (BHL), the beloved UK-based indie pattern company best known (by abundance of blogged makes, anyway) for their <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/elisalex-dress">Elisalex Dress</a> and <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/anna-dress">Anna Dress.</a> The Flora has a pleated circular skirt and the option for a faux wrap bodice or a fitted tank bodice with thick straps. The skirt can be made with a dipped or straight hem. In my true test version for this pattern, before the oil spill version, I made the wrap bodice. It has a plungy depth, as most wrap dresses do, so not something I felt comfortable wearing. For my silk... and cotton... versions, I made the tank bodice instead. It kinda reminds me of an apron but is that a bad thing? Nah.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnjj797iQVo1qMPyVL2KKuF-YZBuctdI_Ze9_TEVKKVSeU07V8x0PsFL3v3kPmSSJ_49RImhGlW89OvdtsKoIVw0fJC_hL7kIiXg5-hTZ9ByO8hYttWXg_OPr44E83ndBhcpNIks1-yRp/s1600/Flora+Dress+3.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnjj797iQVo1qMPyVL2KKuF-YZBuctdI_Ze9_TEVKKVSeU07V8x0PsFL3v3kPmSSJ_49RImhGlW89OvdtsKoIVw0fJC_hL7kIiXg5-hTZ9ByO8hYttWXg_OPr44E83ndBhcpNIks1-yRp/s1600/Flora+Dress+3.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">CONSTRUCTION:</span></b> I hadn't sewn a BHL pattern before now, and I found it fun to do so. They make some sassy patterns with simple construction, which is certainly part of why the blogosphere loves 'em. This pattern is basic dressmaking so if you are willing to sew a lot of darts (12 of them counting the lining...), some pleats and an invisible zipper, it's a pretty breezy sew. I used a draft version of the instructions so can't speak to the final edit, but I bet if you have a dress or two in your sewing resume, you'll have no problemo with the Flora. And of course (as seemingly expected of patternmakers nowadays!), there will be a Flora sew-along on the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london">BHL blog</a>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdoRnia47U7kbQQZXbICZ4yrVKoQH02XnDln4VIwlfspPtopNHuHRDdVkJoGjgvEH0g819UEzn6-ZJQ3g4Dp20RsfbMz0C373-SdRr1mCModgg6S5ZKz7UHgsM43MDRFRRLDNEa5eCEAA/s1600/Flora+A.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdoRnia47U7kbQQZXbICZ4yrVKoQH02XnDln4VIwlfspPtopNHuHRDdVkJoGjgvEH0g819UEzn6-ZJQ3g4Dp20RsfbMz0C373-SdRr1mCModgg6S5ZKz7UHgsM43MDRFRRLDNEa5eCEAA/s1600/Flora+A.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">FIT:</span></b> The Flora is drafted to be pretty darn fitted in the torso, so beware if you're used to commercial pattern sizing. Par exemple, if you have a 35" bust and a 28" waist, it says to sew a US size 8 (UK size 12), which has finished garment measurements of 35.5" bust and 28.5" waist, so only 1/2" of ease (breathing room). Most Simplicity or McCall's patterns will have like 4 inches of ease, ha. I have a 34" bust and a 27" waist but instead of the US size 6 as recommended, I sewed the US size 8 and found it still fits snugly, which I happen to prefer but maybe you want even more room. I like that they include the finished garment measurements so you can make your own call on sizing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The trickier parts to fit on this pattern for me were the front darts. I had to move the bust darts down 1/2" and the waist darts inward 3/4", with those dart points also moved down 1/2". I also removed a smidge of width from the vertical waist darts. I think this bodice is drafted for a full B cup and I'm not there, though I'm still waiting with bated breath for that day. Note that if you move your vertical waist darts in any direction, the front pleats on your skirt will also have to be moved so they still align. I also shaved 1/4" off each side of the center back seam at the upper back to prevent some gaping at the neckline.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsFKvKL7NBjqtTq8ZoVuMFn-EalN-LUyHDOt_1PMUuDzxf56pOYzUWmzXJ_f-ejXsSQg1KMdxUuSJ7PDMRazv_agp_1kxSeMs8o8YsTky5DbIAfEaw8zGNoqwWskF1x0n5NL1OLUHPljZb/s1600/Flora+B.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsFKvKL7NBjqtTq8ZoVuMFn-EalN-LUyHDOt_1PMUuDzxf56pOYzUWmzXJ_f-ejXsSQg1KMdxUuSJ7PDMRazv_agp_1kxSeMs8o8YsTky5DbIAfEaw8zGNoqwWskF1x0n5NL1OLUHPljZb/s1600/Flora+B.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">CHANGES:</span></b> I lowered the front neckline by 2" total. I lost the strap pattern piece (?!) so I had to improvise my own and guess at the length they needed to be. I have no idea if this affected where the neckline sits in the end. It doesn't really look like a 2" drop from the other bloggers who made this variation of the pattern. I could stand to go lower still.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The test pattern didn't have a straight hem option (the published one does), but I straightened it out myself and cut the skirt out at about 21" all the way around .I hemmed with a baby hem instead of 5/8". The pictures make me realize I probably made it too short, as always, but oh well. Tights rule my life anyway.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96HkKNK5nhKP-by2lRdNcI6pvJNnksJAmqNljnPhGWmocIcBNK6bpSxF5dek2MYyIYjVXCtrc_0EPko-LMR2qegdLiSQ7CQiWYUKk1a3ATsZETVJ1zl8Ay0nz70c8TuYI9xQz4ocT843V/s1600/Flora+C.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg96HkKNK5nhKP-by2lRdNcI6pvJNnksJAmqNljnPhGWmocIcBNK6bpSxF5dek2MYyIYjVXCtrc_0EPko-LMR2qegdLiSQ7CQiWYUKk1a3ATsZETVJ1zl8Ay0nz70c8TuYI9xQz4ocT843V/s1600/Flora+C.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The shell of the dress needs 60" wide fabric to accommodate the size of the circular skirt. I used 45" fabric here which meant I had to narrow the width of the skirt quite a bit, like <a href="http://chainstitcher.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/pattern-testing-flora-dress-from-by.html">Diary of a Chainstitcher did</a>. Kinda regret that I lost some of the swirly volume because of this, and the back pleats don't skim over my hips as nicely as a result. If you have 45" fabric but want more oomph, you can do as <a href="http://dollyclackett.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/shes-really-into-all-police-lingo.html">Dolly Clackett did</a> and cut the skirt on the cross grain if your fabric doesn't have a directional print or stretch. I used self fabric to line the bodice and attached the invisible zipper to the shell only so I could cleanly attach the lining to the zipper by machine.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy1jrGI0nJDQ6nErNYDbfF4hDCsFxNh8OrPxEi98CGFSdFnRK5xGppRWJBUXcsbv491xhaszgEi4jbWX7Xw18R2s9oygGwDo2NSDuM-iW3enZPhRj-Nqj-VJ3b3S6yIEl161tgZcWK8X5/s1600/Flora+Inside.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy1jrGI0nJDQ6nErNYDbfF4hDCsFxNh8OrPxEi98CGFSdFnRK5xGppRWJBUXcsbv491xhaszgEi4jbWX7Xw18R2s9oygGwDo2NSDuM-iW3enZPhRj-Nqj-VJ3b3S6yIEl161tgZcWK8X5/s1600/Flora+Inside.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Flora Dress is a cutie so I recommend this pattern if you don't have a similar style already in your stash. It's nothing earth-shattering in terms of design but it's an enjoyable make. Can't wait to see what else is in store for the future of BHL.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So what's the moral of the story here? Sewing dresses is dandy, and roasting spaghetti squash leads to a delicious meal, but, uh, don't do those things at the same time.</span></div>
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"https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-2aoHbO_zGyA%2FUyIGgDJeYHI%2FAAAAAAAAHgY%2Fiq_PX-_e334%2Fs1600%2FFlora%2BInside.png&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHy1jrGI0nJDQ6nErNYDbfF4hDCsFxNh8OrPxEi98CGFSdFnRK5xGppRWJBUXcsbv491xhaszgEi4jbWX7Xw18R2s9oygGwDo2NSDuM-iW3enZPhRj-Nqj-VJ3b3S6yIEl161tgZcWK8X5/s1600/Flora+Inside.png" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-7155286121902195222014-03-05T16:45:00.002-05:002014-03-05T17:53:18.099-05:00spring sewing: a plan<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h2ReAmjqiN5leWCDdu2_VjLtlNhUgkvdqlWVl36xOxhlt87SuV-2Znu9bALlHBb4I_6PzXB0HdTfdO6rFoSRSlvD6LYYfDMUszEuQRDy4AdHeRIbjPwjIViQAjj9ID7wcYe69WfJeL4q/s1600/Spring+Wardrobe+Plan.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h2ReAmjqiN5leWCDdu2_VjLtlNhUgkvdqlWVl36xOxhlt87SuV-2Znu9bALlHBb4I_6PzXB0HdTfdO6rFoSRSlvD6LYYfDMUszEuQRDy4AdHeRIbjPwjIViQAjj9ID7wcYe69WfJeL4q/s1600/Spring+Wardrobe+Plan.png" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">How can I call myself a blogger if I have never done a wardrobe planning post with carefully curated photos of all the beautiful stylized garments I want to make and wear for the upcoming season? I've never even been to the Polyvore site, whatever that is. I must be pretty damn narcissistic if I just want to clog up my blog with photos of stuff already made by ME. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sewing plans and personal style analysis have been the rage among other bloggers (</span><a href="http://www.coletterie.com/category/wardrobe-architect" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">example</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">), but that takes thoughtfulness and care. Lord knows my sewing to date has not involved much of either. I'm usually just like, "Oh, a new </span><a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Grainline</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> pattern release? That'll do, pig" and then I make 200 versions and consider myself a superhero.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But my style is changing and so is my lifestyle, so I'm finding myself stuck with patterns and fabric that I don't want to sew but with no real idea of what I do want to sew. I had a full day where I could work on projects for myself, but I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO SEW so I repaired my friend's pants and then washed a sink full of dishes instead. wtf. So, I thought if I actually did some research and set some guidelines, I would always have something in the queue and I would be less likely to feel uninspired. I should plan my fabric and notion purchases ahead of time so ripe sewing time doesn't turn into ass-numbing-TV-watching time due to lack of ideas or resources.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Anyway, get to the point. Here are some things I want to make for the warmer weather:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>1) Cropped Bomber Jacket</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWakipTeiXkOJVqb0qeo_ByPN-sydHnwBCrH5WudgKyl_EV6pBkAF-xlY41tx-FncSv-C01AK4ivJl4yquBFE-Jr7oRxW_kBwDNjPkW2vxed6X7IvsdAnqV8KipWH-J6agxuTiT3SjsPb/s1600/Bomber+Jackets.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWakipTeiXkOJVqb0qeo_ByPN-sydHnwBCrH5WudgKyl_EV6pBkAF-xlY41tx-FncSv-C01AK4ivJl4yquBFE-Jr7oRxW_kBwDNjPkW2vxed6X7IvsdAnqV8KipWH-J6agxuTiT3SjsPb/s1600/Bomber+Jackets.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sources: <a href="http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/product/clothes-jackets-outervest/31063209.jsp?cm_sp=Grid-_-31063209-_-Regular_24">1</a> / <a href="http://www.bbdakota.com/jensen-jacket/d/2683">2</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It's on everyone's to-sew list this year: a <a href="http://papercutpatterns.com/products/rigel-bomber">Rigel Bomber from Papercut Patterns</a>. I got it for Christmas! The fever spread ever since <a href="http://cirque-du-bebe.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/scandinavian-style-sewing-series.html">Sophie's polka dot version</a> debuted and the crowd went wild. I look better in jackets that have a more defined waist, and I've gotten a lot of mileage out of a secondhand cropped bomber jacket I bought a few years ago, so I think I'm gonna chop off some length from the Rigel when I make it, probably even shorter than the ones above. Deciding on fabric is the hardest part. Is a denim bomber jacket unacceptably 80s?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>2) V-Neck Tops</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn76zbjqCYERh__xwnRRCBiFCftLJxj1OOMhFz6eYJ00B-taqzdSgU7ZIsuoAA_yvTNNGIeBUleVJthVl89rftC1osVahnG6UD4048txnTAkQGxM9raMUqFILtwNWK1eF8VkpGb1bS3-l6/s1600/V+Necks.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn76zbjqCYERh__xwnRRCBiFCftLJxj1OOMhFz6eYJ00B-taqzdSgU7ZIsuoAA_yvTNNGIeBUleVJthVl89rftC1osVahnG6UD4048txnTAkQGxM9raMUqFILtwNWK1eF8VkpGb1bS3-l6/s1600/V+Necks.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sources: </span><a href="http://www.modcloth.com/shop/blouses/pathway-to-my-heart-top" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1</a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> / </span><a href="http://shopruche.com/take-your-time-geometric-blouse.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I think everything I make is either a collared shirt or a scoop-neck knit top/dress. I tend to avoid v-necks, I guess because they're harder to sew, but I need more tops and I need more variety in my life. I figure I can adapt a pattern, or find one, to make a drapey v-neck with a buttoned front like these.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>3) Shirt Dresses</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQrS93VdZ7rjQFd6ylG3YDIdHedCO9jXyp_4NsUFHePKi6SnPzmRFh4Cq29SJ8svU81of2Lcl9i3FEYsu4lLW5wZbpQyiWWPzIOt07KEXDyUPn3aEwA9UR6urvHbFCC94TtP3b980KRHo/s1600/Shirt+Dress.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQrS93VdZ7rjQFd6ylG3YDIdHedCO9jXyp_4NsUFHePKi6SnPzmRFh4Cq29SJ8svU81of2Lcl9i3FEYsu4lLW5wZbpQyiWWPzIOt07KEXDyUPn3aEwA9UR6urvHbFCC94TtP3b980KRHo/s1600/Shirt+Dress.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sources: <a href="http://www.paunnet.com/2013/09/bleuet-bleuet.html">1</a> / <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/181332525/pdf-sewing-pattern-buttonless-shirt?ref=shop_home_active_5">2</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How cute is Paunnet in her <a href="http://www.paunnet.com/2013/09/bleuet-bleuet.html">sleeveless Bleuet Dress</a>? The contrast collar is killing me. I also stumbled across this new <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/181332525/pdf-sewing-pattern-buttonless-shirt?ref=shop_home_active_5">Salme buttonless "shirt dress" pattern</a>. It seems very simple and fun to sew, though I'm worried about swayback adjustment issues since I don't think there's a waist seam. I wish Salme showed their patterns on real people. I think it's holding people back from trying them!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>4) High-Waisted Shorts</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOFQ2I8O_GQmNyKl7DStZ8o0YSytE8dUu7XRYOmostihkuPlpPIBri4SBsWc_m-29FaPeqMZUgj4WIl0sam23rSE5UnEKvdgb4U3vCv0nGlL_ZzgYZ53YAIwQdd4GLQ22jQbNP3dbvsR13/s1600/High+Waisted+Shorts.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOFQ2I8O_GQmNyKl7DStZ8o0YSytE8dUu7XRYOmostihkuPlpPIBri4SBsWc_m-29FaPeqMZUgj4WIl0sam23rSE5UnEKvdgb4U3vCv0nGlL_ZzgYZ53YAIwQdd4GLQ22jQbNP3dbvsR13/s1600/High+Waisted+Shorts.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOFQ2I8O_GQmNyKl7DStZ8o0YSytE8dUu7XRYOmostihkuPlpPIBri4SBsWc_m-29FaPeqMZUgj4WIl0sam23rSE5UnEKvdgb4U3vCv0nGlL_ZzgYZ53YAIwQdd4GLQ22jQbNP3dbvsR13/s1600/High+Waisted+Shorts.png" /></a><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Source: <a href="http://voguec.com/goods.php?id=8861&m=HardPin&cid=1287&medium=HardPin&source=Pinterest&campaign=type57&ref=hardpin_type57&utm_source=Pinterest&utm_medium=HardPin&utm_campaign=type57&utm_content=1287#.UxUn7eM7uSo">1</a> / <a href="http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/on-the-street-shirt-shorts-los-angeles/">2</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Err this is a big maybe. I haven't worn any kind of shorts in public in YEARS. Too self-conscious. But now that high-waisted shorts are trendy, this helps the pear shapes among us. I would never wear them as short as pictured, and I'd have to be really careful about fit and fabric, but if I can find the right pattern it could be liberating. Speaking of Salme, their <a href="http://www.salmesewingpatterns.com/products/digital-sewing-pattern-paper-bag-waist-shorts?sid%3Deaf0886d99303ed2244e1fe579bf6ec5">Paperbag Waist Shorts</a> look fantastic laying flat... but again they could look disastrous on a full-hipped lady like meself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>5) Bags</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QjYWGCgoYbAdS8VcLQAdG17iK6zGagEVCDdBA1AjCn5JrLKMxfHabNRyh8wPKGcqMYqE4QONawGPra7aQ2fgRb8V1tLskwRxAhV_Rq7WtxhRDR706Br4ELOxffaW9NcysaQAvq5tqxDT/s1600/Bags.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QjYWGCgoYbAdS8VcLQAdG17iK6zGagEVCDdBA1AjCn5JrLKMxfHabNRyh8wPKGcqMYqE4QONawGPra7aQ2fgRb8V1tLskwRxAhV_Rq7WtxhRDR706Br4ELOxffaW9NcysaQAvq5tqxDT/s1600/Bags.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Source: <a href="http://www.modcloth.com/shop/handbags/cabin-conference-bag">1</a> / <a href="http://www.truebias.com/2013/08/the-super-online-sewing-match-round-3.html">2</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For normal use I just want a bag that is big enough to carry money, phone and keys but still has a shoulder strap, so it's not as awkward as a large purse to tote around at house parties and bars (I live a rowdy life). I'm wondering if I can find a clutch or wallet tutorial and add my own strap. Conversely, I also want to make a bag that's large enough to pack clothes for traveling. I don't own a functional duffel bag, so packing for overnight trips has been a head-scratch. The one pictured above, which is <a href="http://www.truebias.com/2013/08/the-super-online-sewing-match-round-3.html">Kelli's awesome It's a Cinch bag</a>, probably isn't big enough for packing clothes, but her use of fabric and detailing is what I'm after. I'll probably make <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/product/portside-travel-set">Grainline's Portside Travel Set</a> because I hear Amy Butler's <a href="http://www.amybutlerdesign.com/products/patterns_display.php?id=22">Weekender Bag</a> makes for a stressful sewing odyssey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>6) Springy Sweaters</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLc-sXSKBhjiGrnlgH03rmPr4w9ZSGMLRD7jCLehMWrmZ-n5M-ISZpp1zEcS1P-PCgjt-Yw3M3Ac2R3-QqMhpUiZXY6PbRE7GtnzDy9yb93eA6vcgnW0nrn05Lweaqb-CQ4LAigGrKMqhW/s1600/Sweaters.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLc-sXSKBhjiGrnlgH03rmPr4w9ZSGMLRD7jCLehMWrmZ-n5M-ISZpp1zEcS1P-PCgjt-Yw3M3Ac2R3-QqMhpUiZXY6PbRE7GtnzDy9yb93eA6vcgnW0nrn05Lweaqb-CQ4LAigGrKMqhW/s1600/Sweaters.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sources: <a href="http://knityorkcity.com/2014/02/04/fo-selfish-sweater/">1</a> / <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/AndiSatt/marion">2</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I didn't mean to choose two yellow sweaters to feature but it must be my winter-induced Vitamin D deficiency speaking. I'm so happy I can incorporate sweaters into my handmade wardrobe now! I'm pretty obsessed with <a href="http://knityorkcity.com/2014/02/04/fo-selfish-sweater/">Knit York City's version</a> of Amy Christoffers' <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/faro-pullover">Faro Pullover</a> sweater. I stared at the instructions all day today and am still unsure I can tackle it. Pipe dreams! Its lacy details and elbow-length sleeves have me believe I can wear it in in warmer weather. Andi Satterlund's <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marion-6">Marion cardigan</a> also uses worsted weight yarn, but has cropped length and cropped sleeves so it seems suitable for spring. I think I need help with the order of construction for her designs, too. Ugh learning curves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I feel better already. Of course I will sew other things not on this list (I have unrelated pattern testing and blog tour garments coming up!) but it's helpful to have some more direction so I never decide to WASH DISHES instead of sew (or knit) ever again.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Are any of you planning on tackling the same types of garments or patterns? Do you have any pattern recommendations for my list? </span><br />
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--><!-- Blogger automated replacement: "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn76zbjqCYERh__xwnRRCBiFCftLJxj1OOMhFz6eYJ00B-taqzdSgU7ZIsuoAA_yvTNNGIeBUleVJthVl89rftC1osVahnG6UD4048txnTAkQGxM9raMUqFILtwNWK1eF8VkpGb1bS3-l6/s1600/V+Necks.png" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn76zbjqCYERh__xwnRRCBiFCftLJxj1OOMhFz6eYJ00B-taqzdSgU7ZIsuoAA_yvTNNGIeBUleVJthVl89rftC1osVahnG6UD4048txnTAkQGxM9raMUqFILtwNWK1eF8VkpGb1bS3-l6/s1600/V+Necks.png" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-32165181242981467312014-02-27T14:10:00.000-05:002014-02-27T14:44:25.312-05:00rosemont and the wild ponies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXCA-ezP9-9CzwSjcX5GcYmGsNAjRL7dSB_Jb5NuLthJgR-BEdolPjN7fqrIxbCWxUIEqPorEh8uJfu69zTQ-KBXOcQN4_EkdiKZJomO4332ZuIYkY3L0ue6aIxfHYqpuvpquWELglcqN/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+A.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXCA-ezP9-9CzwSjcX5GcYmGsNAjRL7dSB_Jb5NuLthJgR-BEdolPjN7fqrIxbCWxUIEqPorEh8uJfu69zTQ-KBXOcQN4_EkdiKZJomO4332ZuIYkY3L0ue6aIxfHYqpuvpquWELglcqN/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+A.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Grandma bun and grandpa sweater. I am an old soul with a short skirt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">WHAT, pray tell, is better than wearing an enormous 100% wool cardigan that envelops you completely as you battle through a miserably endless winter? I can think of nothing else, especially now that I own one for the very first time. "Own" isn't even the right word, because it's not like I just plucked it from the gramps section of the thrift store and handed over $4 for it. This puppy was hand-knitted by yours truly, and it's astonishing to me that every fiber of its being has passed through my hands and grew before my eyes from a tiny little woolly sprout to this oversized blanket-with-sleeves that I never want to remove from my shoulders until Mr. Sun is back full-force on this side of the earth. There's something about knitting that feels much more involved and intimate than sewing (depending on the project, I guess), so I apologize for the sentimental maternal-like gushing that's going on here. Crafty high -- I can't think straight.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4M64N1ZIKnCrqo6JduWKYWzcs7s4VwouC77qnlMAKuo4jILVLAf8vW8G70XHsy4moqU8ncHz9vOf7w_Bfgd84-A7Fxoasz4rySapi3SIy8uv314kwWD4kDV1-_Qze9e7GXFfE356NKbH/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+B.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4M64N1ZIKnCrqo6JduWKYWzcs7s4VwouC77qnlMAKuo4jILVLAf8vW8G70XHsy4moqU8ncHz9vOf7w_Bfgd84-A7Fxoasz4rySapi3SIy8uv314kwWD4kDV1-_Qze9e7GXFfE356NKbH/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+B.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>PATTERN:</b> The pattern! It is the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rosemont-cardigan">Rosemont Cardigan</a> by Hannah Fettig, newly released in February 2014. It's a shawl-collar open front cardigan that's knitted seamlessly from the top-down. Being new to knitting, I still don't know where to start to look for patterns as I don't have any go-to designers yet. <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/">Ravelry</a> is a wonderful resource but is absolutely overwhelming. Even if I filter by garment type, style, price, yarn weight, needle size, age/gender, and construction technique, there can still be hundreds of pages of patterns to sift through. And a lot of it is godawful. So, when I visited the blog of a local yarn company, <a href="http://kelbournewoolens.com/blog/">Kelbourne Woolens</a>, and saw they were hosting a knit-along for a new cardigan pattern, I jumped at the chance to have someone ELSE tell me what to knit. I liked that the Rosemont has no closures, is knitted with aran weight yarn, and is a basic, unisex style that's still pretty cute.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEior7QbiahWJrhUEI-HJTmfTFQzUDuIyBXb0s58qKGHcVblJgF0UDLzBJOKHkn3RWhDaVmOxYtMZrADPDusbrqTZB0naLgP_759cCCcDFkUoOmzGOUPhU5vS09e_pxFIx5_dCUomEdQIWo6/s1600/Rosemont+KAL.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEior7QbiahWJrhUEI-HJTmfTFQzUDuIyBXb0s58qKGHcVblJgF0UDLzBJOKHkn3RWhDaVmOxYtMZrADPDusbrqTZB0naLgP_759cCCcDFkUoOmzGOUPhU5vS09e_pxFIx5_dCUomEdQIWo6/s1600/Rosemont+KAL.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm grateful for the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/groups/rosemont-cardigan-knit-a-long">Ravelry group</a> and knit-along because the pattern's wording for the raglan and neck increases was incredibly confusing to me (and others, thank goodness). If you decide to make this pattern, definitely consult <a href="http://kelbournewoolens.com/blog/2014/2/rosemont-kal-week-2-sorting-out-the-raglan-neck-increases">this post</a> first, which explains the logic and order of it all. I would have given up without that help, really. After that was all sorted out, I sped away from the group and finished the rest of the sweater within two weeks. The knit along is supposed to last two months! I am psychotic.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPHue5OzBADefqUNp6y6fjBmSbdd4rCC0_RGC1CLAL2afqU5Ufm6wEOVjTiK9o3dVzXoiX9FYCm3_bqYddEMGMjM3CTJmm-KcgTo6aahtrjGMpBJn750nYeHxl0H6vcnF4KN9IKxRyf-l/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+E.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPHue5OzBADefqUNp6y6fjBmSbdd4rCC0_RGC1CLAL2afqU5Ufm6wEOVjTiK9o3dVzXoiX9FYCm3_bqYddEMGMjM3CTJmm-KcgTo6aahtrjGMpBJn750nYeHxl0H6vcnF4KN9IKxRyf-l/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+E.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>SIZE:</b> I decided to knit the size that corresponded with a finished bust measurement of 39.5", with an added five inches of length to the body. It's the third smallest size out of 11 (eleven!) sizes, so I thought that even though 39.5 inches sounded baggy, it would be fine. The model in the pattern photos is wearing the 36.75" and she's quite slim, so I thought it'd be safe to go up just one size from her. Okay, wow, this cardigan ended up much bigger than I thought it would be, but luckily I'm a fan of oversized sweaters so I'm happy with it. I guess my row gauge ended up being way off because I even stopped knitting the sleeves a full 10 rows sooner than instructed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWu4C-G-DTNqN10FfeNOAnxZmH1mkLLL8VLNGdsDL4yon_ok5fi9hVCc_7en18NOXCxqG0RTmgnZ2j9VPeKE6CiPMCHBnijO0tuqCf8S-fCRB8OprG71nbMI7iD2beFlU5EtmuXctwBFA/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+D.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWu4C-G-DTNqN10FfeNOAnxZmH1mkLLL8VLNGdsDL4yon_ok5fi9hVCc_7en18NOXCxqG0RTmgnZ2j9VPeKE6CiPMCHBnijO0tuqCf8S-fCRB8OprG71nbMI7iD2beFlU5EtmuXctwBFA/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+D.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>YARN:</b> The knit-a-long is using <a href="http://kelbournewoolens.com/yarns/terra">Terra yarn</a>, which is a fancy baby alpaca/merino/silk blend that your girl here simply cannot afford, even if it would mean I could joyfully think of baby alpacas the whole time, whether or not that's what "baby alpaca" yarn actually means:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kp9_VjV67EwiS5iCffDYur7AIINLHNywlXrgTa6qHQq7oHvdk4bgOJrfggl0b_EbqynYP33kxrIhKST6wnMydL0S0CMvbGY9uvwiDxYCghzH9UckOOFEwc_SmEKs-3fY8OkXQJr23cM7/s1600/Alpaca+Baby+and+Mama.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kp9_VjV67EwiS5iCffDYur7AIINLHNywlXrgTa6qHQq7oHvdk4bgOJrfggl0b_EbqynYP33kxrIhKST6wnMydL0S0CMvbGY9uvwiDxYCghzH9UckOOFEwc_SmEKs-3fY8OkXQJr23cM7/s1600/Alpaca+Baby+and+Mama.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cannot. handle. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Anyway, for a big fat yarn-eating cardigan for an unconfident knitter, I went the economical route and chose <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/cfYarns/Yarn_Display.cfm?ID=5420213&ac=1">Knit Picks' Andes del Campo</a> in the color Smoulder Heather. I don't know what the public consensus is on the quality of Knit Picks yarn (thoughts?), but a 100% Highland wool yarn for $5.49/ball is hard to resist. I ended up using just over seven skeins so it's a relatively affordable sweater all things considered (not counting labor). It's pretty soft and not that itchy on bare skin. I think this is ACTUALLY the first authentic wool sweater I've ever owned and worn. I have a ton of store-bought cardigans that are either cotton or some acrylic cocktail mix.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The color is described as: ""Inspired by the warm glow of a bonfire, Smoulder Heather is a rusty burnt orange with mahogany undertones that is combined with heathered flecks of yellow, burgundy, and purple." It is definitely an autumn color, but it complements my coloring and it matches my boots, living room brick wall and hardwood floors so, you know, here it is in February. It looks toasty brown from afar but is actually quite complex:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFtPCvr9nD1nEKUV3r8l9B-5IjTq_tIwX1ztOT5t2emszRadzhHu554Sc4_vKMaWvk7JD__KLmcfKMoSbD3LLIIr1IZdBlOcdMetk2VmvvF0FUg5K3aQFVeZRizTeUtcexhFxqmPGBb_3/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+C.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZFtPCvr9nD1nEKUV3r8l9B-5IjTq_tIwX1ztOT5t2emszRadzhHu554Sc4_vKMaWvk7JD__KLmcfKMoSbD3LLIIr1IZdBlOcdMetk2VmvvF0FUg5K3aQFVeZRizTeUtcexhFxqmPGBb_3/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+C.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>CONSTRUCTION AND SHAPING:</b> I taught myself how to do the knit stitch in <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9XImtoQmZ8">continental style</a>, which is SO much faster than English style, but I cannot for the life of me do purl stitches in continental style. I also can't knit continental on double-pointed needles, so my first sleeve felt like it took forever, especially since I always drop stitches accidentally on DPNs. I switched to the <a href="http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop">Magic Loop</a> for the second sleeve, and since it was circular I could just knit continental nonstop without purling, so the whole sleeve took like 2/3 the amount of time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Just after finishing the sweater, I couldn't get the shawl collar to roll properly. Wet-blocking helped me form the collar to proper shape, at least when flat, but as soon as I put it on it doesn't want to roll enough of the way back to cover more of the neck ribbing. I don't know if it's supposed to, and I can't tell if it's just because my sweater is so oversized it doesn't fit my shoulders properly. The ribbing does seem laughably deep:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2qhlmG29VIP8zqQOX08sjrDT_Xd3LNT5xKVLDO6NkUxU8Ki00mjLomjpMaWaYqA4F_eXNkPd9vJ3s2PuGsjXCZDxgGtj2t26DN8vjhLEQeKFFT4pOVJm09vcX87Ic2KyuwBEbNxbmsKe/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+G.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2qhlmG29VIP8zqQOX08sjrDT_Xd3LNT5xKVLDO6NkUxU8Ki00mjLomjpMaWaYqA4F_eXNkPd9vJ3s2PuGsjXCZDxgGtj2t26DN8vjhLEQeKFFT4pOVJm09vcX87Ic2KyuwBEbNxbmsKe/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+G.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>THE PONIES:</b> Okay, I can't ignore the ponies. I sewed this basic dress in January from some silky poly I found at Jomar. Of course I liked the print, even though these are insane, chaotic horses tromping about all upside down and round about. Took me awhile to figure out which was way up -- or which way had the most upright horses. The dress itself is okay. Sleeveless, elastic waist, lined skirt, self-bound neckline and armholes. It doesn't fit beautifully so it actually benefits from being overshadowed by a huge grandpa cardigan. The pattern is (roughly) the bottom layer of the <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/double-layer-dress-062013">BurdaStyle Double Layer Tank dress</a>, which I've <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/tribal-cord.html">used before</a>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQM6LMnUUGHvdGhYZCaGxnDN1QFmdVnCK4nHxG5ujMjNZ-JqPCUY0XiTDM9z713blClfrpWf1YrgEG-z61dyWjVxrLh7-l_ULmks5vz7iqGLLEsVGmUIpNtxQbwCs8Rbg3cWNq3BYCMyC1/s1600/Pony+Dress+A.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQM6LMnUUGHvdGhYZCaGxnDN1QFmdVnCK4nHxG5ujMjNZ-JqPCUY0XiTDM9z713blClfrpWf1YrgEG-z61dyWjVxrLh7-l_ULmks5vz7iqGLLEsVGmUIpNtxQbwCs8Rbg3cWNq3BYCMyC1/s1600/Pony+Dress+A.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Alright my little alpaca babes, how are you staying warm? Is anyone else knitting the Rosemont or knitting/sewing something just as snuggleh?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd_dZUBw7Li29spQ3grbWh-6RgHeL-kOMx8NpI_Dhxh-YOIYCdJRIvZE5zhkJDk9bNkt4jmV2DrXwWEnqVpuxVmMyHdlhSIKDym1bUMv1NC4ucyv1oOQxAWeeI2thxxY1Y86J2gGnEsjly/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+H.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd_dZUBw7Li29spQ3grbWh-6RgHeL-kOMx8NpI_Dhxh-YOIYCdJRIvZE5zhkJDk9bNkt4jmV2DrXwWEnqVpuxVmMyHdlhSIKDym1bUMv1NC4ucyv1oOQxAWeeI2thxxY1Y86J2gGnEsjly/s1600/Rosemont+Cardigan+H.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Ravelry notes <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/foursquarewalls/rosemont-cardigan">here</a>.</span><br />
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"https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-he4sr1wuC_A%2FUw92Ug90Y-I%2FAAAAAAAAHaM%2FazaCMP4hd0s%2Fs1600%2FRosemont%2BKAL.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEior7QbiahWJrhUEI-HJTmfTFQzUDuIyBXb0s58qKGHcVblJgF0UDLzBJOKHkn3RWhDaVmOxYtMZrADPDusbrqTZB0naLgP_759cCCcDFkUoOmzGOUPhU5vS09e_pxFIx5_dCUomEdQIWo6/s1600/Rosemont+KAL.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-16040051815732711062014-02-09T20:09:00.000-05:002014-02-09T20:18:43.463-05:00my 4 favorite shirtmaking tools<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilCVqB1XrWIpKwgU0kFQaNdc6lqKz2qhRdIwwOTERd9n8iVgvZCJofl5LvwH4BNJM5MtyMd-UaZmoEulhGua23odK9tF9hAQ-9X8TkVDbR8Z1e_qt8QnqjFhuPCN-ABtKiGEOzMzO9ItTN/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+Intro.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilCVqB1XrWIpKwgU0kFQaNdc6lqKz2qhRdIwwOTERd9n8iVgvZCJofl5LvwH4BNJM5MtyMd-UaZmoEulhGua23odK9tF9hAQ-9X8TkVDbR8Z1e_qt8QnqjFhuPCN-ABtKiGEOzMzO9ItTN/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+Intro.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm thrilled that so many of you have found my <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html">tutorial on sewing a shirt collar</a> to be helpful. Thrilled enough to keep talking about sewing shirts. O'boy! I'm continuing to feverishly sew button-downs for my main dude, so I'm slowly learning (er, improvising) all the little tricks to getting better results each time. It's satisfying to watch my skills improve and to figure out my go-to methods that lead to consistent outcomes. Translation: I'm addicted. I also may have accidentally drafted a multi-size men's shirt pattern. Moving on!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Since I'm just a home sewer with run-of-the-mill equipment you can find relatively easily, I thought I'd share with you the extra "tools" I use regularly when sewing shirts to help get the details right. Some of them are hardly tools -- just stuff. This list includes items that I use in addition to normal sewing equipment/notions such as a machine, ruler, seam ripper, etc. So none of these are absolutely essential for sewing a nice-looking shirt. They just make it all a bit easier.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">TOOL #1.</span></b> <span style="font-size: large;">GLUE STICK</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwfobukDBUx6AzcHGdz0iACCKK61jZjE90g4uhWduNM4cNsONQ0sgZ_r1BFrtKKjKG9Bi8VBXCKmeDDObMN_3m6gU8wEgA5DvyugwRdiAT8x85uVXabKBXulhbqTf7CieoBps5dXthXrSW/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+A.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwfobukDBUx6AzcHGdz0iACCKK61jZjE90g4uhWduNM4cNsONQ0sgZ_r1BFrtKKjKG9Bi8VBXCKmeDDObMN_3m6gU8wEgA5DvyugwRdiAT8x85uVXabKBXulhbqTf7CieoBps5dXthXrSW/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+A.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I've always used a glue stick to help attach centered zippers on skirts, ever since I saw <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2007/05/installing-a-zipper-tutorial-by-michelle/">this tutorial</a> on Sew Mama Sew a million years ago. Now I use one throughout the shirtmaking process, too, particularly when I need to secure something on the inside while sewing from the right side. To me, glue makes it easier to control the fabric and get it perfectly positioned, and can be faster than basting and more secure than pinning, especially on slippery fabrics that will immediately shift as you remove the pins during sewing. And the stakes aren't that high -- you can easily reposition something before the glue dries... or even after.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here I use fabric glue from JoAnn's that claims it is water-soluble and won't "gunk up" your machine needle, but I've also used the regular ole office supply stuff in the past. Here's when I use a glue stick:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">- <b>To secure button plackets</b> so they're less likely to ripple or drag when you're topstitching them down...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh84lg5Sx6T5rGO0xSNtLrk9DYTGBQheTrwUmeFvKXciDRAlM8hKvV7RtlU83vDdAKBJTBiwB02O4kw0x059DNLMDRIXtb8pCWnuVGFo5di4UxhxzbubbVmkdsZ-X_YCXzmZ7wKrFsxnjt/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+B.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh84lg5Sx6T5rGO0xSNtLrk9DYTGBQheTrwUmeFvKXciDRAlM8hKvV7RtlU83vDdAKBJTBiwB02O4kw0x059DNLMDRIXtb8pCWnuVGFo5di4UxhxzbubbVmkdsZ-X_YCXzmZ7wKrFsxnjt/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+B.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP67tSyHtbhdpsmYsPLgUJLnfj7cuaMflhpg5pVVbF5tvhevUZiBahRAO-BQTwvbcbCh8agMWMBCMyMY_RXiivZZzTbj4t80Hl-P_bwd-GSfB-wsoFYOhXDL1aMZls7qTbwoHVxxB99kU/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+C.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP67tSyHtbhdpsmYsPLgUJLnfj7cuaMflhpg5pVVbF5tvhevUZiBahRAO-BQTwvbcbCh8agMWMBCMyMY_RXiivZZzTbj4t80Hl-P_bwd-GSfB-wsoFYOhXDL1aMZls7qTbwoHVxxB99kU/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+C.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">- <b>To secure a pocket </b>before sewing it on...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeB82RFQok-2iWT8eHdHACFSY9LInLcdWaYQoG-VROwo7Q3VgRj2jeEPqD-PNODff5HcAcF6sKi3n1ap9y8SbS9dkRYKTZc8Qvy4nevm0BKk3KtF23rEsYRsiFLTXbgOB-fq7V_tySrDO-/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+D.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeB82RFQok-2iWT8eHdHACFSY9LInLcdWaYQoG-VROwo7Q3VgRj2jeEPqD-PNODff5HcAcF6sKi3n1ap9y8SbS9dkRYKTZc8Qvy4nevm0BKk3KtF23rEsYRsiFLTXbgOB-fq7V_tySrDO-/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+D.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbnXvOlgE_3XWoaWIBckw-t9jyStDvGc976AsbqL2yvySyvqMm2kIbORfB09cnpMRrnDiWqsbnxq6r89r4DaTlnhVsuQUeWsuOqrBxBVac6oEVh_8-2qFbGaWElWAN_wUMcCpH7H9DXl3/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+E.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbnXvOlgE_3XWoaWIBckw-t9jyStDvGc976AsbqL2yvySyvqMm2kIbORfB09cnpMRrnDiWqsbnxq6r89r4DaTlnhVsuQUeWsuOqrBxBVac6oEVh_8-2qFbGaWElWAN_wUMcCpH7H9DXl3/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+E.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">- <b>To position the inner collar stand's</b> lower seam allowance before edgestitching it in place from the right side...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1kcatcg4kdhymZMkPkR5r4W1qpRlOewf4sIkwLIw3WcsT1l-Po4ap6VsiwolwZx7go9fEguheEK1IFmc33DCZ60kytQq0Kw5VmvanHsM8Xfv_wXCEntRZoeJr2GpWMPDTVgXujjkjX8e/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+F.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw1kcatcg4kdhymZMkPkR5r4W1qpRlOewf4sIkwLIw3WcsT1l-Po4ap6VsiwolwZx7go9fEguheEK1IFmc33DCZ60kytQq0Kw5VmvanHsM8Xfv_wXCEntRZoeJr2GpWMPDTVgXujjkjX8e/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+F.png" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj4aSHvcF1UQmaXda205mLMhN-LdjM6SpWhX8PriluWX3rWZ3S9K_bOFLYp1ZRdjRWpteadSpli8a_-cNDs0jhCji80XQU9Z5eOCmJJXiF_9JxiLQIZNi9BvGeCRokjpGVkw5mrXWu1d2f/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+G.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj4aSHvcF1UQmaXda205mLMhN-LdjM6SpWhX8PriluWX3rWZ3S9K_bOFLYp1ZRdjRWpteadSpli8a_-cNDs0jhCji80XQU9Z5eOCmJJXiF_9JxiLQIZNi9BvGeCRokjpGVkw5mrXWu1d2f/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+G.png" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-p7cd3fItwJUeMTLWOkRpLKr5Wow30QUmLgjVfEHLCUpbvZQu-tQ27uncUpUie70TpUfzKHlNcZeXXwuSO_O4sFWUKRuEs8rodk6fqH0BY7pWVNUFdQWnKMclNDyGSarZS0MMNkSvxZf/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+Y.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF-p7cd3fItwJUeMTLWOkRpLKr5Wow30QUmLgjVfEHLCUpbvZQu-tQ27uncUpUie70TpUfzKHlNcZeXXwuSO_O4sFWUKRuEs8rodk6fqH0BY7pWVNUFdQWnKMclNDyGSarZS0MMNkSvxZf/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+Y.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">- <b>And to help make sleeve plackets</b> by properly positioning all the folded parts (by the way, I use Pam's <a href="http://off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogspot.com/2014/01/tutorial-shirt-sleeve-placket.html">two-piece shirt sleeve placket tutorial</a> which I highly recommend. She also uses glue at one point!)...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipn5vaKOF1dSxnTTSEn7YTz3i44yEtvnO5Hk8ZvxRLA51c3zHH4Vl76ndxS-bm969pcwcuVEoGVQK3D1TVUEXFxGj45qWM4LxgHALWE4jwQPBzTYmxgU8Iikdr7mcPVgQdyCHAD0P0_tpX/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+H.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipn5vaKOF1dSxnTTSEn7YTz3i44yEtvnO5Hk8ZvxRLA51c3zHH4Vl76ndxS-bm969pcwcuVEoGVQK3D1TVUEXFxGj45qWM4LxgHALWE4jwQPBzTYmxgU8Iikdr7mcPVgQdyCHAD0P0_tpX/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+H.png" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj296XMBfkd-zW1SrLxmxx4C8_f9ebLkBEspx0GMUFIS-8T1LRuXm06anybtsEpbOYM9Ll4oNmF7pfBNOcrzIYWT2OMrM6UC_gnEALtLq7P0AqFtHvxxc1g26z2OvBLGe3rpqFtnJ5SwSlU/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+I.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj296XMBfkd-zW1SrLxmxx4C8_f9ebLkBEspx0GMUFIS-8T1LRuXm06anybtsEpbOYM9Ll4oNmF7pfBNOcrzIYWT2OMrM6UC_gnEALtLq7P0AqFtHvxxc1g26z2OvBLGe3rpqFtnJ5SwSlU/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+I.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>TOOL #2. </b>EDGESTITCHING FOOT</span> (edge stitching foot, edge-stitching foot, edge stitch foot, whatever) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodGwYaeWSDejlWcfNInE0i7RtRxCn_-1adol2OtspapLKtR6zZKXlHSYGVuET5H1K856vQ51LJRb2yrpQCmEkgXLc7WkXBEhBv4HVJy0z6va-Xjac-wOD5yos33tZYmnczo6jBP7Tkaz_/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+J.png" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Ever since getting an edgestitching foot (also known as a stitch-in-the-ditch foot or edge-joining foot), my shirtmaking confidence has skyrocketed. It has a centered guide that enables you to sew precisely at 1/16" or 1/8" from a seam or the edge of your garment, or directly within a seam if you need to. Of course it's not impossible to sew close to the edge without one, but I can't tell you how many times I used to seam-rip and redo my edgestitching, especially on the back yoke when there's a long horizontal line where any wave in your stitches is very obvious. I just couldn't stand the thought of people sitting behind me on the subway and staring at my crookedly-stitched yoke. NIGHTMARES.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMX7qx4HU-nHWBwJ6UUZBH-L7nDPGEDTiz8nej2-ITl2IwyFLI_mRWbehl3ebb3gmSsnwu6AH3mfVS-WunV2nfyU3BbgavVi1soiMQ4G1iM66br7ldTX6uqr0sJE6EZDDwNDTYyUcYOwg/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+K.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMX7qx4HU-nHWBwJ6UUZBH-L7nDPGEDTiz8nej2-ITl2IwyFLI_mRWbehl3ebb3gmSsnwu6AH3mfVS-WunV2nfyU3BbgavVi1soiMQ4G1iM66br7ldTX6uqr0sJE6EZDDwNDTYyUcYOwg/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+K.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It sounds fussy but I don't mind investing money in sewing tools that produce satisfactory results almost every time without having to put in much more time or effort to learn how to use it, and this is one of those things. I bought this generic <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00426UNSW/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item">snap-on foot</a> from Amazon that works with most low-shank machines. It was about $10. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I use it on pockets...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7rytdv6d9rSJY-iCl4WvvhxlYTujUn8RxHZHM81zD3tD3HF6ORCtBGn-bwq1zcA19j1upYNCKaU1kiLddLpnnAhc4RzWrXKzCth37K2perOCgT2wHD5V4tHaXkqlkQ8gmzlU1zTZBUoA/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+X.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7rytdv6d9rSJY-iCl4WvvhxlYTujUn8RxHZHM81zD3tD3HF6ORCtBGn-bwq1zcA19j1upYNCKaU1kiLddLpnnAhc4RzWrXKzCth37K2perOCgT2wHD5V4tHaXkqlkQ8gmzlU1zTZBUoA/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+X.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The yoke...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK4diTa6WBwOXVPEUm8NZmQOCNgaGrWkwuU1ZsfTiGFFyK7HWDNigH26q6YWosvP7eWfCTWItuwqG3sfnxP1zpfGo9RZDkTGOwhdENRvIT-idjsBjW3-HDCeE317ftAUk5WgHjia3MG22V/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+M.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK4diTa6WBwOXVPEUm8NZmQOCNgaGrWkwuU1ZsfTiGFFyK7HWDNigH26q6YWosvP7eWfCTWItuwqG3sfnxP1zpfGo9RZDkTGOwhdENRvIT-idjsBjW3-HDCeE317ftAUk5WgHjia3MG22V/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+M.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Collar stand...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzg68b5BGuYDhyqveNYg10rps8Wm-Q5VyVOHy_stXXX11CzCL2X7UTKEWfAvHQc39auK0oW75oGIcQ-6N1wzMqqzT7LFl0gwoVkZNWDS43zFPwFchG9nH1F7pmhjYexJ4VgPfu8D9sITV/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+N.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPzg68b5BGuYDhyqveNYg10rps8Wm-Q5VyVOHy_stXXX11CzCL2X7UTKEWfAvHQc39auK0oW75oGIcQ-6N1wzMqqzT7LFl0gwoVkZNWDS43zFPwFchG9nH1F7pmhjYexJ4VgPfu8D9sITV/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+N.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And sleeve placket...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32Ev6eHR-UDmaVjdrKDF7zB9elMkWGP3PwmcyBtO_ShCr3gRn4AT5V4oMvwyE7zzY7cl-JWrh4b3DnMy-WY-RYSvkW7aFVWECTH1xFJ75lJiuVzmvxq82dj5_2fNwLlhQtoBxSxAAF8hb/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+O.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32Ev6eHR-UDmaVjdrKDF7zB9elMkWGP3PwmcyBtO_ShCr3gRn4AT5V4oMvwyE7zzY7cl-JWrh4b3DnMy-WY-RYSvkW7aFVWECTH1xFJ75lJiuVzmvxq82dj5_2fNwLlhQtoBxSxAAF8hb/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+O.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>TOOL #3. </b>SCRAP FABRIC</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">You've probably heard this before, but one way to get even stitches when topstitching or edgestitching is to ensure your presser foot remains level. Have you ever tried to sew over a bulky seam or continue stitching after a pivot point, but the presser foot just won't move and your bobbin thread gets all tangled? It's likely because your poor foot is stuck trying to move uphill:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrT9nWFCoPCzhnQXNYAcVnWcZpcXfnyzacWq4WnIIvuZP-DQDOA6Reltx87eaEnAA6x0kEoq3OLK1hCu0CceXsPHkF3-NF69W_nIxLNFOp0lwxxp5z24FzA6awvOC6PaFthgnk5EteaW9-/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+P.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrT9nWFCoPCzhnQXNYAcVnWcZpcXfnyzacWq4WnIIvuZP-DQDOA6Reltx87eaEnAA6x0kEoq3OLK1hCu0CceXsPHkF3-NF69W_nIxLNFOp0lwxxp5z24FzA6awvOC6PaFthgnk5EteaW9-/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+P.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you shove some scrap fabric under the foot behind the piece you're sewing, the presser foot will no longer be tilted up at an angle and it will sew forward much more smoothly. This was a game changer for me when top-stitching collars points and collar stands. No more tiny little struggle stitches on full display around your face!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0fdkQu7qle7xiJ5KCwjJpdZMofKcENBa4yRZCUj5vzpKnoaKQXVfaILFjPZ_7vGrnhLQAOm6fQfqAIOh9h8AMtEeqsZRaKuYnEwuGhDapBG0flTaLErWBBGfIfQJBbDqCeIQbB_cq60u/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+R.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht0fdkQu7qle7xiJ5KCwjJpdZMofKcENBa4yRZCUj5vzpKnoaKQXVfaILFjPZ_7vGrnhLQAOm6fQfqAIOh9h8AMtEeqsZRaKuYnEwuGhDapBG0flTaLErWBBGfIfQJBbDqCeIQbB_cq60u/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+R.png" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIydoa711nBGMJFrBoivn3ME-47V5ykuW8GDCt-NtbgBl5rrgFndNI8WmWQ0NYWKhRLxcVvsFX4RD7XiZuciH6e1RNqeDTM-GyK4FGO7Pnop0cq5_JUqddhyBWLv3csEAiEi5W9kt-l-X/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+S.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIydoa711nBGMJFrBoivn3ME-47V5ykuW8GDCt-NtbgBl5rrgFndNI8WmWQ0NYWKhRLxcVvsFX4RD7XiZuciH6e1RNqeDTM-GyK4FGO7Pnop0cq5_JUqddhyBWLv3csEAiEi5W9kt-l-X/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+S.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>TOOL #4. </b>SLEEVE BOARD</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwndyMELpNKDN3rA9b2Lrq6q-lPmEdxG94dhDbiCDca02x3nq1jJgesszo9vAuXcx6cs8MhJx9Gn861_1UjeoOwS6aR-YIKW1waDNiaFDANcRgz0i2ZwkeZ04sGVVpdSYo0qx_njJvjFHL/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+T.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwndyMELpNKDN3rA9b2Lrq6q-lPmEdxG94dhDbiCDca02x3nq1jJgesszo9vAuXcx6cs8MhJx9Gn861_1UjeoOwS6aR-YIKW1waDNiaFDANcRgz0i2ZwkeZ04sGVVpdSYo0qx_njJvjFHL/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+T.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is probably one that's only worth it if you sew a lot of long-sleeved shirts (or other kinds of narrow tubes, I guess). Before now, I always just serged all my shirt seams, but now I've been forcing myself to make <a href="http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/05/seam-series-how-to-sew-a-french-seam/">French seams</a> or <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/standard-flat-felled-seam">flat-felled seams</a> because they're more attractive when the sleeves are rolled up, which for Corey and me is always. Pressing all the way down the sleeve seam is essential for this kind of finish, so it's just easier to have a sleeve board for this process so you can flatten out and fold the seams most efficiently. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqXTARcxKYCbz7jKm1wrb1syB6OqBgJDeHeReWh1KL2r48Ht33hbAIFzoJv1pqBMlF0Xd23wFhw5aMZojjL-qN6ZXDm5ILejGidUc5r6i9gKkuIx1VRhgeeHECx5ehfc3W0PdZ84A-w8K/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+V.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMqXTARcxKYCbz7jKm1wrb1syB6OqBgJDeHeReWh1KL2r48Ht33hbAIFzoJv1pqBMlF0Xd23wFhw5aMZojjL-qN6ZXDm5ILejGidUc5r6i9gKkuIx1VRhgeeHECx5ehfc3W0PdZ84A-w8K/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+V.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you're desperate, though, you can just stick a narrow rolled up towel down your sleeves, too, though it will be a bit squishy and may not get your seams as flat.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PtrcingfILqLxEhiqtzz5q0v3edjAtowv9pIG047aV6PPThImmwh1naF1n-Wltl4sLKseXfnHti1-qdlWjJ43imJi8KIGxe2XGwYAx7t345t60gIyrAB44M4YrVNx2LQDdq2Jsqs-1Eh/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+W.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PtrcingfILqLxEhiqtzz5q0v3edjAtowv9pIG047aV6PPThImmwh1naF1n-Wltl4sLKseXfnHti1-qdlWjJ43imJi8KIGxe2XGwYAx7t345t60gIyrAB44M4YrVNx2LQDdq2Jsqs-1Eh/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+W.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And that's it! I tried thinking of five tools but these are really the only ones I use regularly. I own some other stuff like an <a href="http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/simflex+expanding+gauge.do">expanding buttonhole placement ruler gauge thingy</a>, but I find it sufficient to measure buttonhole placement with a normal straight ruler.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What are your favorite shirtmaking tools? Any that I haven't thought of? Chime in, buttercups.</span></div>
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"https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeB82RFQok-2iWT8eHdHACFSY9LInLcdWaYQoG-VROwo7Q3VgRj2jeEPqD-PNODff5HcAcF6sKi3n1ap9y8SbS9dkRYKTZc8Qvy4nevm0BKk3KtF23rEsYRsiFLTXbgOB-fq7V_tySrDO-/s1600/Shirtmaking+Tools+D.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-51620273477868844722014-01-24T08:08:00.000-05:002014-01-24T08:08:26.676-05:00how do you store knitting needles?<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7MdkDXvOfjPYp58tUAV3_fJswDR_hVMB1-Ditr4HdCR5bJa7NdVtNZNQbgQzNPoeaWqiZR485nOGgutuXiiafoYPa5npqO5Hs_M8l-NSYpeNyeqYyfcbnm0mreuxj9N6LyZDynZ6Epab/s1600/Knitting+Needle+Storage.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib7MdkDXvOfjPYp58tUAV3_fJswDR_hVMB1-Ditr4HdCR5bJa7NdVtNZNQbgQzNPoeaWqiZR485nOGgutuXiiafoYPa5npqO5Hs_M8l-NSYpeNyeqYyfcbnm0mreuxj9N6LyZDynZ6Epab/s1600/Knitting+Needle+Storage.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm a relatively new knitter, but just as it was with sewing, the obsession hits hard and supplies accumulate extremely fast. I'm having flashbacks to when my fabric and sewing supplies all fit on half of a shelf in my living room. I had one Simplicity dress pattern and thought, "Hey, this is pretty fun..." and eight months later I had two (now three) machines and a mountain of fabric and was at the point of demanding my own sewing room.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Luckily, knitting takes up much less space, but there are a lot of small barely-distinguishable items -- often in pairs or quadruples -- that can be tricky to keep track of. I started out buying only the knitting needles I needed for the projects I wanted to do, but that quickly became frustrating when I downloaded a new pattern and wanted to start right away but didn't have the proper needles. It's also pretty clear that buying needles in bulk or in interchangeable sets can save you a LOT of money in the end. I did buy the <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/needles/Options_Interchangeable_Nickel_Plated_Circular_Knitting_Needle_Set__D90335.html">Knit Picks interchangeable set</a> for circulars and straights, but its vinyl case has already ripped.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2alpDIuUFryWOWnK9b4xCYt0sFBJGK23yBIh4fcZ255RD5AwGujG16bv1ZmdFWFan1PDGudbbCR3Eei-UGkNpMaIfwDhvuUvbP1-el47NhX_ymS4Qyp4piwLJsbKqbPkG-oc7kLt_EA3E/s1600/Knitting+Needle+Storage+1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2alpDIuUFryWOWnK9b4xCYt0sFBJGK23yBIh4fcZ255RD5AwGujG16bv1ZmdFWFan1PDGudbbCR3Eei-UGkNpMaIfwDhvuUvbP1-el47NhX_ymS4Qyp4piwLJsbKqbPkG-oc7kLt_EA3E/s1600/Knitting+Needle+Storage+1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, you know the story. I already have a lot of needles and no idea how to organize them neatly so everything is easy to find. I know many of you are knitters, so I'm turning to my favorite people in the blogosphere: <b>I need your advice on knitting supply storage.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How do you store all your knitting needles? Do you organize everything by size, type, length, etc? Do you keep them all in the same case, or in multiple places? Do you keep them in the original packaging? Do you label everything? How do you keep all your sets of double-pointed needles together? Do you make sure your storage is portable? Do you prefer to roll everything up, fold everything up, hang everything up, or throw it all in a bag or box and toss it in the closet? Do you hack other storage devices (i.e. CD cases, three-ring binders, Ziploc bags, vases, etc)? Did you SEW your own case (and what pattern did you use)? Where do you keep your stitch markers, point protectors, gauge rulers and all the other small doodads that so easily disappear in the dark depths of the couch cushions? Etc. etc.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAGy8DFSuwLeT0xtM54rr5PyrJWZ_VJ5gmTckGFVn2y8k2zSq7mwXTir4CvxGMkhsLG2Ks4NVu-1HmWuImNZZT7P0hyNy-5Pn4lHH7IbqggekAn-X_hs4PZx6O-DL8QH4BWsy-8lSzsMn/s1600/Knitted+Hats.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Two recent projects - the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lucky-7-hat">Lucky 7 Hat</a> and the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vermont-hat">Vermont Hat</a></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAGy8DFSuwLeT0xtM54rr5PyrJWZ_VJ5gmTckGFVn2y8k2zSq7mwXTir4CvxGMkhsLG2Ks4NVu-1HmWuImNZZT7P0hyNy-5Pn4lHH7IbqggekAn-X_hs4PZx6O-DL8QH4BWsy-8lSzsMn/s1600/Knitted+Hats.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tell me everything! I'd love to hear about your knitting organization systems (or lack thereof, to know I'm not alone) so I can figure out the best way to proceed before things get out of control. Thanks in advance!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kkt2DwLkQT1I1E-veNpaH8YGSNhcNi512C2ktmPZ18fBwfB0l6Pwr-5QzI0ji4a_uYWSj5z0bt1jknNXEKnvpN2zbOsexZutPXU5gYb7Ff0BkMJIy7c1QEvnaKVVYlbkYeQjLe20qJrp/s1600/Hemlock+Tees+Prints.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kkt2DwLkQT1I1E-veNpaH8YGSNhcNi512C2ktmPZ18fBwfB0l6Pwr-5QzI0ji4a_uYWSj5z0bt1jknNXEKnvpN2zbOsexZutPXU5gYb7Ff0BkMJIy7c1QEvnaKVVYlbkYeQjLe20qJrp/s1600/Hemlock+Tees+Prints.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I had an epic jersey stash-busting sewing marathon this past week. I recently organized my sewing room (see proof <a href="http://instagram.com/p/jFiF01JB-K/">here</a>) and sorted my fabric by type/content as well as fabric-I-want-to-use and wtf-was-I-thinking-fabric. I actually don't have a large fabric stash right now (a subjective statement), but I thought it was about time I make some room for new stuff. I hate storing slinky fabric that doesn't fold crisply or stack well, so I grabbed all the drapey rayon/lycra blend jerseys that have been slipping off my narrow closet shelves for several months now. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHzosSstGeELtsVMS43CR2jtarHJg9xQIEfNwWajTSEbPDKwsCmjogtWpnu7KrLKTSpfKUUXsb08U4qlkxb-SJaLnF5oLDEr65bAbOAsvqKeYxtDrDxixI7Y11CpaPqgtdZK2t9qunWrS/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+1.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKHzosSstGeELtsVMS43CR2jtarHJg9xQIEfNwWajTSEbPDKwsCmjogtWpnu7KrLKTSpfKUUXsb08U4qlkxb-SJaLnF5oLDEr65bAbOAsvqKeYxtDrDxixI7Y11CpaPqgtdZK2t9qunWrS/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+1.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To help tackle all these knits, I downloaded the PDF of Grainline Studio's <a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/08/05/hemlock-tee-pattern-its-free/">free Hemlock Tee pattern</a>. It's a slouchy-fit, drop-shoulder top, which isn't necessarily the most flattering look for me, but hey, a girl's gotta lounge. I've been wearing jeans more often lately because all my tights are ripped so I can't wear dresses. Instead of buying more tights, I'm sewing more tees so I can wear jeans more often. Hopefully someone out there gets my logic.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0vvtEIjieyq77uWgmnvEfQVS-kcQz1I5mPl0BQIo8PyRButF3QVZvL2rGEG9szqeEZQOWW0BXqQVPbEFOYRSDwSqbBuXt4TXtY2qc6YbW-cpKWZpFqbROwhQV0lqBzwLFUEFff8TcJY8/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+2.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0vvtEIjieyq77uWgmnvEfQVS-kcQz1I5mPl0BQIo8PyRButF3QVZvL2rGEG9szqeEZQOWW0BXqQVPbEFOYRSDwSqbBuXt4TXtY2qc6YbW-cpKWZpFqbROwhQV0lqBzwLFUEFff8TcJY8/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+2.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So all week I've been busting out Hemlock tees like it's my JOB. omg I wish that were actually my job. Please, someone. This pattern is drafted in one size and only includes three pattern pieces (front, back, and sleeve -- you draft the neckband yourself). The instructions (<a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/08/06/grainline-studio-x-britex-hemlock-tissue-tee-tutorial/">provided in Grainline's post here</a>) show you how to make the tee with a serger (overlocker). I almost always use my regular machine as well as my serger for construction on knits. I just feel like I have more control and dexterity with my machine, which helps when matching stripes, matching underarm seams, or attaching neckbands that need to be pretty precise.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2VJRaHgFQIG7EfYrZnbISdu9ipXTABEDk70z-BmrxO3-9aWwieyCcbNVrucBncyKhvG3ktRB2Vu0t8CGTLo0PUT9h2WBgoCncwTTgMituhCWATyZ7BkkTDKhUjYXy5HlLj7M43pdwVtS/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Zig+Zag+1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2eEhW4-Og7O2bVUIg5mSHkMVxlU4oijrh5rzhkgtrrILlZetL0pgoGtfT0GSaAHb_4NVTSyKM6WLOXu9sHzy02U4y9ZHYuyp3VszR00rWOK6jNO2Q3hO7oktQ46Lda52JjKhO5d0F0nn8/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Zig+Zag+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2eEhW4-Og7O2bVUIg5mSHkMVxlU4oijrh5rzhkgtrrILlZetL0pgoGtfT0GSaAHb_4NVTSyKM6WLOXu9sHzy02U4y9ZHYuyp3VszR00rWOK6jNO2Q3hO7oktQ46Lda52JjKhO5d0F0nn8/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Zig+Zag+1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I made some modifications on all of these. On my first practice try, the neckline was too high for my liking and the sleeves too loose. Each of my subsequent necklines were lowered about 3 inches (!!scandal!!). I also lengthened each hem about 2 to 3 inches. The hem of the tribal/cross print one is curved up at the sides, and the hem of the striped one is curved up at the front and longer at the back. I used my coverstitch machine to hem everything. Ole Janome got quite a workout this week.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I made slimmer elbow-length sleeves on the tribal print version, and slimmed down all the others so they could be scrunched up. And obviously I left off the sleeves on the zig zag print version to make a little kimono cap sleeve thing, extending the shoulder seams another inch. Oh go on, call me a ~designer~.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelgBIDgSwlFZQn16xLXlv77HFPknAvl-KiZ-8-h7xU5DecHa96-zob9wlA10wcX9McAdFp6U04iIaSyJABhL-hCQ2sQBUsVohoSGiEUocIZJMbCrkql3YG2fdE2YwIYDUbXEyP_6NSEJJ/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+3.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelgBIDgSwlFZQn16xLXlv77HFPknAvl-KiZ-8-h7xU5DecHa96-zob9wlA10wcX9McAdFp6U04iIaSyJABhL-hCQ2sQBUsVohoSGiEUocIZJMbCrkql3YG2fdE2YwIYDUbXEyP_6NSEJJ/s1600/Grainline+Hemlock+3.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">All three of the rayon jerseys (prints, stripes) are from Fabric.com bought within the last year. I originally intended the graphic print ones to be dresses, but they're certainly too lightweight and sheer for that. The tribal print one was advertised as blue and red, but it's definitely purple and pink. And totally printed off grain, as is typical of Fabric.com. Ah well. I made sure the pattern placement was alright so that I didn't have big crosses or pink diamonds directly on my b00bz. The gray striped fabric was going to be <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.com/2013/10/henley.html">another Henley</a> for Corey but he didn't like the fabric (what? Unbelievably picky, that guy). So now it's mine!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EjY7m6XtUZPKC_2r9omx-R8VS4zixK2VWxPgmvyo6rTGJ2v2l1yXr-uF9VAZUUBMVqsgGVazza4CxzcxwYPHb6sS1sXUf-fiFj-GbAwkorr7HxfeEI76k1IIBWg8Bwz5_GKMkgL9iLI-/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Turquoise+1.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EjY7m6XtUZPKC_2r9omx-R8VS4zixK2VWxPgmvyo6rTGJ2v2l1yXr-uF9VAZUUBMVqsgGVazza4CxzcxwYPHb6sS1sXUf-fiFj-GbAwkorr7HxfeEI76k1IIBWg8Bwz5_GKMkgL9iLI-/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Turquoise+1.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I was inspired by <a href="http://www.makesthethings.com/2013/10/06/simple-sweater/">Makes The Things' sweater version</a> of the Hemlock tee pattern, so I decided to make a heavier version with this turquoise sweater knit fabric that sweet <a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/">Handmade Jane</a> mailed to me all the way from the UK last year just because she knew I liked it. Seriously. She's a sewing angel among mere sewing mortals. See the raglan sleeve dress she made with this same fabric <a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2013/01/raglan-sleeved-knit-dress.html">here.</a> Thanks again, Jane! This one's definitely the warmest version, and goes to show that you can make this pattern with thicker knits, as long as they still have a bit of drape or airiness so the drop shoulder doesn't look too bubbly and weird.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQs7XRtP8Pw3Y1zofZOzfz4gxzO0iuUUGqNi3RXxgVXVs95HYOmdWA9GZPU15G4yuWC2MxpMbaLnOuNzTJKfCq3OVxs3B0zQrMqjAlfqgLQD75SMjYGJZ8yZcuYNE9Ig_-f4KGmW1pF4m/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Stripe+3.jpg"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQs7XRtP8Pw3Y1zofZOzfz4gxzO0iuUUGqNi3RXxgVXVs95HYOmdWA9GZPU15G4yuWC2MxpMbaLnOuNzTJKfCq3OVxs3B0zQrMqjAlfqgLQD75SMjYGJZ8yZcuYNE9Ig_-f4KGmW1pF4m/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Stripe+3.jpg" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Hemlock has you choose your desired neckband width. I used a 2" wide quilt building ruler to cut all my neckbands out. All of them are folded in half wrong sides together then sewn/serged to the neckline with a 5/8" seam allowance and pressed up, except the short sleeve zig zag one, which was sewn at 3/8". Two of them I topstitched down and two I did not. I ALWAYS attach my knit neckbands flat instead of in-the-round, then connect the second shoulder seam after the fact. That way I can achieve my desired neckband snugness without doing any math or fiddly trial and error work.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Hemlock pattern obviously sews up very quickly, so I recommend it if you want to whip up some basics, need to get out of a sewing rut, sew up some of your jersey stash, or, as in my case, all of the above. I've already worn mine to work, to the movies, to the gym, and/or to bed. Multi-purpose, gotta love it. Thanks for another great little pattern, Jen B. You're a superhero.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRpJBOOjKWQ6xUgR09-epGbv4RHR653RcopCxYPqIf8WK0hroi1h87407275fBVfv0jCZo3-8k5wAsjnVnRTzpQ0O4hFBfB6Wm-lKpAtvhOh2FaQFNmzgJcblFgKTdV3vozI1SwkoOcvy3/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Hurricane.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRpJBOOjKWQ6xUgR09-epGbv4RHR653RcopCxYPqIf8WK0hroi1h87407275fBVfv0jCZo3-8k5wAsjnVnRTzpQ0O4hFBfB6Wm-lKpAtvhOh2FaQFNmzgJcblFgKTdV3vozI1SwkoOcvy3/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Hurricane.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Who else is Hemlock crazed?</span></div>
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"https://images-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com/gadgets/proxy?url=http%3A%2F%2F2.bp.blogspot.com%2F-UTC4DUhZEfs%2FUtsG_NOQrYI%2FAAAAAAAAHR4%2FSN3AF-nPAmU%2Fs1600%2FHemlock%2BTee%2BStripe%2B3.jpg&container=blogger&gadget=a&rewriteMime=image%2F*" with "https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQs7XRtP8Pw3Y1zofZOzfz4gxzO0iuUUGqNi3RXxgVXVs95HYOmdWA9GZPU15G4yuWC2MxpMbaLnOuNzTJKfCq3OVxs3B0zQrMqjAlfqgLQD75SMjYGJZ8yZcuYNE9Ig_-f4KGmW1pF4m/s1600/Hemlock+Tee+Stripe+3.jpg" -->Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2244463586719803408.post-44320378186151054912014-01-12T22:24:00.002-05:002014-01-13T00:33:06.985-05:00tartan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgyfQ2m1_Ctdmfc8WxayIEmIG36zA2_w4TshogGSs3PV_XJ_zNM_YHqBB9qS4K1qjcoCoPekNvb1rH9xsRT3z1stqeRg52-KKBGuS8p7OUzmpJs9wInrUJhdCqiLd8tya1FIloB5mFsz5f/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Six.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgyfQ2m1_Ctdmfc8WxayIEmIG36zA2_w4TshogGSs3PV_XJ_zNM_YHqBB9qS4K1qjcoCoPekNvb1rH9xsRT3z1stqeRg52-KKBGuS8p7OUzmpJs9wInrUJhdCqiLd8tya1FIloB5mFsz5f/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Six.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Happy new year, sweet friends. I have some ambitious plans up my sleeve for the coming year, and I've always been inexplicably more fond of even numbers than odd numbers, so I think 2014 should be a good'un. I didn't participate in all the bloggers' "top five"/reflection posts, but to seal up 2013, I thought I would share this plaid flannel shirt I made Corey in December. Last year was the year of the button-down, as I made five shirts and one shirt-dress for myself and four shirts for Corey. This one is definitely the most beloved.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsTm4nVlKb1uUr0csWkeR0W4p3OWkUDr2C9aIXPjhG195R28Yf26TwlYu5jCbbCPqneyq7BHEk-k1NyDgJQAmqTZLuWmuQj40-JGsFvmPPLPwPabsuWlwrXfdrTKErTXKNnZZ97q3nr_0J/s1600/Red+Flannel+Shirt+Nine.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsTm4nVlKb1uUr0csWkeR0W4p3OWkUDr2C9aIXPjhG195R28Yf26TwlYu5jCbbCPqneyq7BHEk-k1NyDgJQAmqTZLuWmuQj40-JGsFvmPPLPwPabsuWlwrXfdrTKErTXKNnZZ97q3nr_0J/s1600/Red+Flannel+Shirt+Nine.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The button placket IS straight!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I think we all know there aren't great men's shirt patterns out there, so I've built this pattern using trace-offs of RTW shirts (for the front, back, yoke, collar/stand) and the sleeve and cuffs from <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/showproduct.aspx?ProductID=8486&SEName=burda-style-shirt">Burda 7045</a>. The Burda pattern seems to be okay because it's actually a slim modern cut, but it didn't have the back pleat or curved hem that Corey likes, and the collar options are somehow confusing. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK3X_TpgoAKnBTt_6qQaGtZf7yekncF6VGYcw2d8gV6hO51M7jwACdxUnSRUuXnuOh6BzO7rsNncq3yGyQ1d9VmMWlU094jSPEA1vupQzj_bjGJzsOBSZl_E14t5sqCNvYf6ArQKuLYlZ/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Four.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK3X_TpgoAKnBTt_6qQaGtZf7yekncF6VGYcw2d8gV6hO51M7jwACdxUnSRUuXnuOh6BzO7rsNncq3yGyQ1d9VmMWlU094jSPEA1vupQzj_bjGJzsOBSZl_E14t5sqCNvYf6ArQKuLYlZ/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Four.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I think I'm pretty close to achieving his "perfect" pattern, but the sleeves on this one puff out a bit too much above the cuff. I also still cheat and simply serge all the seams instead of flat-felling or whatever, but I think I should at least do French seams because he always rolls up his cuffs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I was short on fabric so I had to cut the back yoke on the cross-grain, and the inner yoke out of a striped cotton sheet in my stash. The middle vertical stripe on the yoke therefore isn't the same width as the middle vertical stripe on the back, and the whole back print is kinda crooked (just now noticing, gah!) but O'WELL. The plaid matching on the front, sleeves and sides is pretty accurate so I'm happy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYQBBCTmVjaQD8dJtHPmAYECNeC3XxLyRBKEi5ms8lUSkhqZ0J0dGsBCZ8ktB7L6l8eRGQYqOwoi2gQqLNTq9yQ57jsV4oFqHLBkJWfvYcpYZ9QMaLFRVWPHBuLWLwY7TjLwBRIvOY_Xz/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Five.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYQBBCTmVjaQD8dJtHPmAYECNeC3XxLyRBKEi5ms8lUSkhqZ0J0dGsBCZ8ktB7L6l8eRGQYqOwoi2gQqLNTq9yQ57jsV4oFqHLBkJWfvYcpYZ9QMaLFRVWPHBuLWLwY7TjLwBRIvOY_Xz/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Five.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The fabric is a cotton flannel shirting from JoAnn's. They do tend to have attractive tartan plaids there. Honestly I wanted to make something for myself with this fabric, but he practically pounced on it the moment he saw it on my sewing table, and he's just so damn charming. I ain't mad, though, because his wardrobe is only a fraction of the size of mine so he actually needed another shirt in the winter rotation.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTy1ixjVMBZSNt8pP7Tslpubey6q2SGi-dARlvcKkI_1az2NhjLbEn_98ExxW664xvjUl77SBnj8Gay5m09YiiYEsZZThSMNXFMXQAbCboCJxZCCSkSvuv77BDXUiCjvuxCFWugVXYQhsr/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Seven.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTy1ixjVMBZSNt8pP7Tslpubey6q2SGi-dARlvcKkI_1az2NhjLbEn_98ExxW664xvjUl77SBnj8Gay5m09YiiYEsZZThSMNXFMXQAbCboCJxZCCSkSvuv77BDXUiCjvuxCFWugVXYQhsr/s1600/Red+Plaid+Flannel+Seven.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Last week Corey flew back to Philly from Louisville during the winter weather chaos. His connecting flight was canceled and so they shuffled him around and got him on a late flight to a different PA airport. Not surprisingly, his baggage did not show up. They told him it'd be delivered the next day, but of course it wasn't. Days went by, and airline phone robots kept telling him that the bag had not yet been located. All I could think about was those beloved handmade shirts (four or five!), trapped in a cold, dark suitcase, abandoned in airport limbo. Losing his favorite handmade clothes all at once would mean losing a large part of his carefully curated (and limited) wardrobe, which is devastating enough. It would also mean that all MY laborious hours of love spent hunched over the cutting table and stepping on pins and slicing my hand with a rotary cutter would be a total, utter waste.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But the story ends happily because the suitcase finally arrived after a week. Has an airline ever lost any of your baggage full of handmade items?!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Anyway, that's the shirt. Does big-bearded Corey in a red plaid shirt remind you of anyone?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrLCNKR7fp6ZwD9kClHMVNudvc9JNlVMr7cpsiSlA0E6XbknRRujDRKcgGtg5S5Qp_adQnzgWrw7Lqu73Lep1QFe9r0a-bcql4ZrXJx4NH6yMUINPdSebEZ7vo16X1i3AqfFF-_o_XVAxV/s1600/Corey+Bunyon+.png"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrLCNKR7fp6ZwD9kClHMVNudvc9JNlVMr7cpsiSlA0E6XbknRRujDRKcgGtg5S5Qp_adQnzgWrw7Lqu73Lep1QFe9r0a-bcql4ZrXJx4NH6yMUINPdSebEZ7vo16X1i3AqfFF-_o_XVAxV/s1600/Corey+Bunyon+.png" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I smell a Halloween costuuuume. I guess I'll be the ox sidekick because I'm such a <i>babe</i>. </span></div>
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Andrea (four square walls)http://www.blogger.com/profile/16918273093902968654noreply@blogger.com