make this look: independent patterns

I flipppppped out when I first discovered the Sew Weekly feature "Make This Look" when I was getting into the online sewing community. It shows you how you can recreate designs (dresses, primarily) from ModCloth, Anthropologie, Ruche, etc. using comparable patterns and fabric. Very clever, as many of us seamsters love a lil' copycatting. I'm not sure if Mena has some kind of ModCloth endorsement or what, as it seems like she's promoting their items at the same time as encouraging us to make our own versions of stuff instead of buying theirs. Here's an example:

Make This Look

Original Dress

I have noticed that almost all of the Make This Look pattern recommendations are commercial patterns, though there's an exception or two (see here). Anyway, when I was on ModCloth the other day I kept discovering items that looked an awful lot like some of our favorite independent pattern designs. I thought some of the similar ones were worth sharing.

Disclaimer: I'm not in any way accusing anyone of copying designs. Not sure how that'd happen in these cases anyway, and it's nearly impossible to draw that line when it comes to fashion. I just found this interesting!

The Frond Bombshell ($190, yikeys) is eerily similar to the Lonsdale dress pattern by Sewaholic, even the tea length of the skirt. The ModCloth design is actually a halter, though, while the Lonsdale has straight straps that connect to the back bodice. I think the Lonsdale is well-suited for a large-scale graphic print like this one.

The Palm of Your Hand dress ($115) reminded me of a slightly more conservative version of the popular bombshell dress from Gertie's online course on Craftsy. Gertie's dress has a lower neckline and a zip back, while ModCloth's has elastic shirring in the back.

The shape of the Catalogue Your Dots ($143) dress is similar to the Lily dress from Colette's Spring/Summer 2012 pattern line. Obviously there are differences in the collar and gathering of the skirt. I kinda like the idea of adding buttons to the front of a Lily. You know, I'm really struggling with the fact that the ModCloth dress is $142.99. It's 100% cotton and unlined... Just, why?

Duh. This is the first dress I saw that made me go, wait - I know that pattern... The Strawberry Cobbler dress ($65) is a nearly dead ringer for a Cambie dress pattern by Sewaholic, except how the bodice is shaped by gathers instead of darts. ModCloth's has an open upper back, too. I don't know if I could handle a Cambie so sickeningly sweet as it is in this fabric, but I'm down with the idea of using contrasting fabric as an accent.

It's kinda hard to tell in this (questionable) print, but the Dandelion Around skirt ($35) resembles Megan Nielsen's new Kelly Skirt pattern. Two buttons on the wide waistband, two pleats in the same place, but in-seam instead of scoop pockets (and a weird long underlayer?). I still want a Kelly skirt in a print, like Roobeedoo's.

Uh, can I get a whoa. The Behold the Emerald Dress ($50) is crazy close to the Miz Mozelle dress pattern by Jamie Christina. That green color is beautiful. I might want this pattern now.

Speaking of Jamie Christina, this Dockside Date knit maxi dress ($53) is just like her ever-popular Mission Maxi pattern. Even has a racerback, though more pronounced. After I made this connection, I saw the ModCloth version on A Beautiful Mess, worn by Elsie (here). Dear ModCloth, I'm a blogger, too. Can you send me free clothes? Eh, whatever, I'll just sew them.

You'd think that seeing all these similarities in the RTW world would make me inclined to shrug and say, "Why sew it when I can just buy it?" Somehow, though, it affirms my love of sewing, and makes me proud that I could reproduce these good-looking garments in my own home. Plus - seeing the original price$ of the ModCloth dre$$e$ make$ me really motivated to keep $ewing my own $tuff. 

Seen any independent design lookalikes in the RTW world lately? I'm curious - Does it make you pleased that you have the option to sew similar designs yourself, or does it discourage you from sewing in any way?

modcloth dress knockoff

I like to imagine the ModCloth "warehouse" as an open green meadow with miles of dresses hanging daintily from clothing lines, blowing lightly in the breeze, back-lit by a warm golden sunset that never actually sets. When you place an order, a woman in a floppy sun hat prances out to pick the dress from the line, folds it gently in her wicker basket and sprinkles daisies on top before heading to the post office. 

"On Meadow" by Aleksandr Averin
Source: Art Russia

Then I remember their HQ is in Pittsburgh PA, so it's probably just in an old steel mill or something.

ModCloth Distribution Center
Source: IUP Fashion Association 

Anyway, I hope ModCloth doesn't mind that I was inspired by (okay, tried to copy) one of their looks. I want them to like me so they'll hire me one day. A friend of a friend actually works at ModCloth as a writer. She gets to sit in a posh studio with a rack of beautiful clothes hanging next to her probably-a-Mac computer, thinking of clever puns and styling options for the item descriptions. And, she says, you can take your dog to work. UM, DREAM JOB, even without the meadow. Do they just, like, giggle & wordplay their way through team meetings? I'm evergreen with envy. 

The inspiration dress is called the "Diamond Fund Dress" (out of stock as of today), and I bookmarked it in my browser awhile ago but forgot about it. I also bought this rayon fabric awhile ago from Hancock, but couldn't decide what pattern or style to use it for. So when I came across this dress again on Pinterest, I immediately knew what I had to do. I looked in my pattern stash and even had a pretty good match; McCall's 6503, which I used to make my colorblocked dress, has an option with a cross-over gathered bodice and curved midriff band. So I didn't even have to make any new fabric or pattern purchases to get started. I just had a little pattern modification to do, and you all know how much I love that.

I tried to stay true to the original dress as much as I could, but didn't get the midriff band right. Mine lacks the horizontal pintucks (seemed unnecessary), doesn't really have that inverted V curve on the midriff and therefore no buttons (unfortunately; my fault), and has a more modest neckline. I also couldn't squeeze out a proper A-line skirt in the amount of fabric I had, so my skirt consists of two gathered rectangles and is slightly more fitted. My fabric print has circles instead of diamonds but it's pretty darn close. I like theirs better when I compare them side by side, but I like mine just fine on its own.

Since I had previous experience with the M6503 pattern, I knew that the gathered bust was basically drafted for a double-Z cup, so I went down a size and narrowed the bottom so there wouldn't be as much fabric to gather. It was still tricky getting it to lay right, with the crossover front and gathered shoulders. I wish I could have called ModCloth to ask for their advice, but doubted they had patternmakers readily available to answer phone calls from copycats. I just kept taking the bodice up and in until it worked for the most part. It still is a bit saggy.

The back has a V neck and a shirred waistband like the original. I've never shirred fabric before, but it was so easy! I always thought the look was pretty juvenile, but it's pretty fun to sew and definitely practical to wear. SURE I'LL SHIRR. I just extended the back midriff piece by three inches, then stitched five rows with elastic thread on my bobbin. Elastic magic.

So, why bother? I'll show you:

Inspiration dress = $71.99 with shipping.

My dress = $9. BOOM. This makes me feel better about it being slightly less cute than the original.

Can't forget to acknowledge my little helper:

(Not my actual dog. Not my actual yard.) 

(Don't worry, I'm housesitting, not trespassing.)